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symptom of a bad MC?
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Batan
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two years ago, spent 10 days screwing around having same problems with you. In the end, it was the brand new brazilian MC that was bad. Threw my old back in, bled it, it was all good.
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jdub07
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drzmark wrote:
kingkarmann wrote:
I used one of these to bleed mine. Link:
http://www.trackhaus.com/brake-bleeders-by-motive-...YAodsAG7dg

No pumping brakes or trying to find a helper. Just make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly before you start Smile


All I use is an empty Wink clear beer bottle (Corona works well) filled half way with clean brake fluid and a length of hose attached to the bleeder valve. Run the hose into the bottle, set the bottle on the ground and pump away! Whenever the bubbles stop coming from the hose, your done.

You can get a 6 pack for around 8 bucks, so it's less expensive then kingkarmann's solution.

Mark


almost sounds like it would work...I'll give that a shot, I'll have to drink something other then Guiness I guess to get my clear bottle Smile
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drzmark
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingkarmann wrote:
I used one of these to bleed mine. Link:
http://www.trackhaus.com/brake-bleeders-by-motive-...YAodsAG7dg

No pumping brakes or trying to find a helper. Just make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly before you start Smile


All I use is an empty Wink clear beer bottle (Corona works well) filled half way with clean brake fluid and a length of hose attached to the bleeder valve. Run the hose into the bottle, set the bottle on the ground and pump away! Whenever the bubbles stop coming from the hose, your done.

You can get a 6 pack for around 8 bucks, so it's less expensive then kingkarmann's solution.

Mark
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jdub07
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingkarmann wrote:
I used one of these to bleed mine. Link:
http://www.trackhaus.com/brake-bleeders-by-motive-...YAodsAG7dg

No pumping brakes or trying to find a helper. Just make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly before you start Smile


There are number of them to choose from...how do i know what one to get...I don't see anthing for older cars?
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kingkarmann
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used one of these to bleed mine. Link:
http://www.trackhaus.com/brake-bleeders-by-motive-...YAodsAG7dg

No pumping brakes or trying to find a helper. Just make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly before you start Smile
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jdub07
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
With a dual system, the fronts have to be bled first, regardless of whether discs or drums are installed. It has to do with being able to provide full pressure to fully bleed. In the old days the rule "bleed the farthest away forst" made sense, but with duals, this is not necessarily the case. Without first getting full pressure into the front system, the "shuttle piston" of the dual MC won't allow you to pump enough fluid into the rears. Therefore the dual MC process should be RF, LF, then RR and LR.


very interesting...thanks for the tip. Can't wait to get under the car again!
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a dual system, the fronts have to be bled first, regardless of whether discs or drums are installed. It has to do with being able to provide full pressure to fully bleed. In the old days the rule "bleed the farthest away forst" made sense, but with duals, this is not necessarily the case. Without first getting full pressure into the front system, the "shuttle piston" of the dual MC won't allow you to pump enough fluid into the rears. Therefore the dual MC process should be RF, LF, then RR and LR.
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jdub07
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
If the pedal goes to the floor, how do you know you bled them completely?

With discs, you bleed the fronts, then the rears. But as posted, adjust the rears before bleeding either.


sorry one more dumb question. when you say "with discs, you bleed the fronts, then the rears." do you mean with disks w/drums or disks ALL around only?
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jdub07
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
If the pedal goes to the floor, how do you know you bled them completely?

With discs, you bleed the fronts, then the rears. But as posted, adjust the rears before bleeding either.


you are completely correct...I don't know if they are bled completely. Only fluid would come out no more air. Fluid would flow (dribble) but no more air would come out. So I 'assumed' that meant it was bled.

The rears barley bleed they dribble fulid out but the fronts squirt fluid out.

Thanks you guys. I feel a lot better about the MC. I'll get to the books and get these things properly adjusted before posting anymore dumb questions.

Again thanks...I was very discouraged last night. Its hard to get a helper to bleed the car as it is so to not know what the issue is with a partner required issue that made it all that more discouraging. Adjustment of the brakes does not require two people correct?

I need to find some local ghia friends.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the pedal goes to the floor, how do you know you bled them completely?

With discs, you bleed the fronts, then the rears. But as posted, adjust the rears before bleeding either.
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thom
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jdub07 wrote:
but what still concerns me is that only one chamber in the resivour drains...would that still be an issue of out of adjustment brakes?


Yes, and I'll bet it's the one for the rears.
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jdub07
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick responses.

Sorry I keep forgetting. its a 1970 coupe...rear drums and front disk.

The entire braking system is brand new...everything except the resivour that is. MC new, flex lines new, pads new, drums new, cylinders new. I didn't want to run into any problems with the brakes so I just got all new parts but seems I haven't adjusted properly. I didn't even adjust the rear drums. I just threw them in. had no idea they could adjust. I'll hit the books again and adjust all around and rebleed... but what still concerns me is that only one chamber in the resivour drains...would that still be an issue of out of adjustment brakes?
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kingkarmann
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disc or all drum ? The reason I ask is that drum shoes need to be adjusted tight to the drum then back the adjusters off until the wheel starts to turn freely . If the shoes were sloppy loose then you could have the problem you are describing or............. a bum MC Sad
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thom
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this a new M/C?

Adjust the brakes and try bleeding again.

How old are your brake flex lines?
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jdub07
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 9:04 am    Post subject: symptom of a bad MC? Reply with quote

Bench bled this B!&@H and though all was well. Threw it in the car and proceeded to bleed the brakes. All lines are new and clear...no more air would come out of lines but pedle goes to floor. I check the resivor and only one chamber is draining when bleeding (the one on the right). Is this a sign that the MC is crap? that half of it isn't working. Can the brakes be SOOOOooo out of adjustment that the pedle wouldn't stiffen at all once the bleeding process was so called done.

I pulled the resivour out and made sure that wasn't clogged...it must be the MC right? This sucks cause I just put a new gas tank in and sealed it so it is equally a pain in the arse to pull the MC from the bottom as it would be to take out the new tank.

So I guess my question is...does this sound like half the MC is broken? Sad
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