nOOb Looking for some advise - 12-13 second street Bug

[turbodon1776]

full flanged?
this guy is going to drive the car to work everyday that might be a little overkill.
3k for the topend on a daily driver? I'm all for a good set of heads but seriously, you can get an 11second head vw casting for under a grand.

[nsracing]

I will go full-flanged crank. The beefiest rods you can afford..preferably with big 3/8 in bolts of the best kind. Clevites all the way.

Balance...balance...balance!

If you insist on an 8-dowel set up, do a wedgemate system. Otherwise, good luck.

Gotta have really good heads for this one. The topend on this motor should set you back about 3K...easy.

You want something that will NOT come apart: FULL FLANGED!

[RIS]

One of my favorites...

[gerico]

DRD RACING HEADS
3016 S Orange Ave,
Santa Ana, CA, 92707
714-545-4100
Darren Gurrola

Tell Darren that Gerry recommended that you call him.
_________________
`70 street Ghia, 2276 NA
Thanks to:
Darren at DRD Racing
Jason at VW Paradise
Bill at Shear Speed
Kevin at KCR trans

[jammer729]

If you buy everything from one supplier they may cut you a deal and save you a bunch on shipping costs. I built a complete turn key 2110 for $3500.00. I had a case and 009 dizzy and thats it. I also bought used 45 dellortos. Eveything else was new. Steve tims stage 2 heads, Scat H-beam rods, (Use ARP2K bolts) FK-8, Magnum straight cuts, cromoly pushrods, bugpack lt. weight slr lifters, scat tubes, Shadek 26mm pump, German lightened flywheel, kennedy plate, kosh disk, cromoly head studs, Bosch Alt, All tin and doghouse shroud, facet fuel pump, Super thick wires, all gaskets and hardware, deep sump, power pulley, full flow with filter, ceramic buggy exaust. The only thing I went cheeper on was the crank it is a china crank 4340 nitrated and 1.4:1 bugpack rockers. Even though it's a buggy I bet I could go 13's or possible 12's. I had a bug that went mid 14's and this has way more pull.

_________________
57 Babyrag

[Hybrid_Hatch]

does anybody have contact info for drd? I have been hearing this name for a few days and want to check it out, also this will be a full blown street car that I will go to and from work with, but want it to have enough zing to take out a few ricers that step up on the back roads to work, like I said I have a low 10 second civic hb and there are more than 2 hand fulls of 12 to 13 second "sport compacts" out here that I would love to be able to serve if needed, also wheelies at the track from time to time would be killer aswell.

[turbodon1776]

this is just my opinion, but there are a few items on your list that you could source cheaper.

heads and crank you can get cheaper from DRD
cam= deffinately on the small size. if you want to go fast throw in an fk89
you can get forged rockers for $125 from aj sims, why spend another 100?
aluminum pushrods will bend and that is a pretty steep price also. consider some chromoly ones.
race bearings? hmm what kind? i got my mahles for $25
other than that it looks OK. i would strongly urge you to do more research on what your going to buy before you start blowing your money out ordering parts.

[gerico]

David,

Welcome back to VWs. Call DRD Racing and speak to Darren. DRD can supply most of the parts you need at a good price and will set you up with a matched combination that will do what you want and stay together.
I believe that someone on this forum recently had one of Darren's carburated 2276 or 2332 that dynoed at over 200hp.

You might consider chevy journals for the rods as I think the chevy bearings are better quality than vw. Also if racing is your primary goal, 5.5" rods will raise your power curve a bit. Be sure and get the rotating assembly dynamically balanced.
_________________
`70 street Ghia, 2276 NA
Thanks to:
Darren at DRD Racing
Jason at VW Paradise
Bill at Shear Speed
Kevin at KCR trans

[Hybrid_Hatch]

will do, ordering everything within the next 4 to 5 days. hope this sucker goes 13's..lol.

but like I said, I can boost it if I fall short..

*edit*

for fuel pump the car has a holley right now with a holley regulator, that should be more than fine for the task at hand right?

[mharney]

Ok, so you have the case, flywheel, exhaust, intakes, carbs, clutch, disk, lifters, pushrod tubes, linkage, generator, tin, pulley, oil cooler, breather, valve covers, exhaust gaskets, generator stand, fuel pump, plumbing, regulator, ignition, wires, plugs, belt, and all the other little crap.. good. Add that up and add it to the price, and you'll start to "get" it. The longblock aint' nearly as expensive as adding all this stuff in, no.. but you will go over $3k easily with all parts of a longblock, and shipping. No point in arguing price.. just get building, and let's see it!

[Hybrid_Hatch]

I understand what you are saying and I do know that things come up, and I should have stated I have a block that is fully ready to go and I have all the ignition system as its all already on the car (ignition). so I dont think much will come up but Iam sure something will, but not enough to add another $2000 to the build.

but as I said, this is price for the long block, not turn key. I have the flywheel and clutch figured in to my misc stuff.

[Iowa Mark]

I'll jump in here and remind you of all the little things that with any build add up to a much larger bill. Lightened flywheel, clutch that holds with a 12 sec. launch, Preasure plate, lifters that don't go flat, sleeving the lifter bores, balancing everything, barrel shims, P/R tubes, breather set-up, manifolds matched and a linkage that works, ignition system/MSD, coil, wires, full flowing and oil pump, sump, header/exhaust, guages and senders. Even Hondas are this way. It's that "oh,shit "factor. I forgot this and there goes another $100. It's great that you can do lots of the work, but just remember what all these guys are saying when you are back into your wallet.

[Hybrid_Hatch]

I dont get it? how can it be $4000 to $5000 to build the longblock only when all the parts on my list are GOOD parts and even if I went to 044 cnc ultra wedge ports that only adds $714.05 to my list putting me at $2604.61 out the door for really good parts that are not cheap at all.

I think most are forgetting that I will be handling the build and will have no labor or machine work cost.

[Hybrid_Hatch]

thats what Iam getting at, I have $3000 for engine (long block only), $2000 for transaxle, and another $1500 for exhaust, shocks, and mics things. I already have all sheet metal (engine tins) and alt, alt stand, welded/balanced fan, and pretty much all other little "bolt on" items.

I already have carbs so Iam good to go there. and I am building this and can do the machine work so no labor added.

[Glenn]

CHEAP - FAST -RELIABLE
You can only pick two of the above.

I can tell you it costs $4000-$5000 for a 2180-2332 long block with the parts to get you into the 12s. Then add anther $2000 for carbs, exhaust, ignition, sheetmetal and alternator to make it a complete engine.

Now you needs tranny that can take it, a suspension that puts it to the ground and brakes that can stop it.

$3000 is only a start.

I know because last winter I had a 2180 built, Steve Tims Stage 2 heads, FK-8, H-beam rods, IDAs.... and it cost double your budget.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[Hybrid_Hatch]

[hpw]

[1955ccbug]

Not that it will put you over budget or anything, but you need (4) 38mm venturi's, there's two in each carb. BTW, I have 40x35.5 heads on my little 1955cc motor and pull low 14's. I think if you're going for good numbers at the track, get some wedge ports like MHarney said. I think the smaller valves will limit the motor.

[Hybrid_Hatch]

list updated with better rockers and crank.

[mharney]

Now we're getting somewhere.. high 14's, rocker arms that will fall apart, and studs that will snap or stretch.

Replace those heads with some wedge ports, or ultra wedge ports, FK8 cam, CB 1.4 rockers and Scat 8740 studs (you'll have to shorten them a little), a GERMAN gasket set, and go to an 82mm crank.. you'll start pulling some 13s with that.