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Carb Preheat (to help eliminate Weber progressive icing?)
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 6:46 am    Post subject: Carb preheat (to help eliminate Weber progressive icing?) Reply with quote

Chrysler K 2.2l air filter with preheat for weber progressive

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joe73camper wrote:
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I have been working on this manifold heat box


This is a modification to prevent carb icing on type 4 engines equipped with weber progressive carbs, initially the box conducts heated air from the No. 1 cylinder snorkel, and when the engine gets hot, the box conducts heat from the crankcase, the system turns on and off automatically via the stock 73 temperature switch that grounds its terminal below 12 celsius, and manually with a toggle switch, all this keeps smooth riding at any temperature.
The cork isolations prevents heat dissipation.


joe73camper wrote:
I read this idea on a Cessna planes forum, the cessnas have an intake preheat switch on dashboard that opens and closes preheat flap, just to prevent carb icing, but preventing also from runing rich , on VW this process is controlled automatically, but then..what if. Im just about to doing it using the T2 1973 vacuum advance cut off solenoid valve in line to the preheat vacuum signal, then the solenoid connected to a possitive and a negative switch to the dashboard, it can also have a neon light to notice that preheat is on. some opinions? by the way T4 1700 with weber progessive and chrysler k air filter (see photo gallery)
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themarshotel7
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Davis911,
I did the exact same thing as you a couple of years ago and it has worked great for me. I don't even take it off in the summer anymore. I can drive my weber in single digits and have no hesitation or stumbling.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aircraft carb heat is warm air from a shroud surrounding the exhaust pipe and a manual selector valve.

Sound familiar?
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vwjoe84
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone ever use a piston aircraft carb heat?
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davis911s
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are welcome

I have been the recipient of so much on this site. I am glad to start to pay back....... even if it is someone else's idea Laughing

Shawn
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brownONE
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you thank you thank you. great link.

i can't wait to gather up all the parts i need to get this thing put together.

you've been great help, davis911s
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davis911s
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read this

http://ad-libs-vw-technical.blogspot.com/2007/10/long-awaited-progressive-carb-warm-air.html
He is the guy I "stole" the idea from. He shows a good pic of the inside of the box. Mine is cut out just like his. You need to cut out the bottom to fit around the carb. The bolts are there so you can change/ clean filters.

This is an EXCELLENT mod. It was -20 here the other day and it ran like a champ Laughing I know the "icing" is caused by condensation not just the cold. My mod has worked from +20 degrees all the way through to -20 degrees. IT WORKS. But I think it has brought the fuel mileage down a bit.

Good luck

Shawn
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"I choose to use CAA on old cars with character...instead of car payments on a new car Smile "

1973 Westfalia, Camper Special with 75 FI. Automatic 003 . Non-pop top
1977 Porsche 911S Targa, 2.7 L with 5spd
1992 Passat G60 Syncro Wagon (SOLD)
1975 Westfalia (SOLD)
1979 Westfalia (SOLD)
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brownONE
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

davis911s:

would you possibly have a pic of what the underside of that electrical box looks like? how exactly did you mount it? i see bolts with wing nuts on top of the filter, were you unable to use the clamps after you put the box in?


thanks
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davis911s
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at my pictures the top picture shows the before picture. It shows the "hole" on the duct where you should be looking. If you find tin with that hole you found the right piece

I don't have an underneath picture but it has a metal "shroud" that forces air up to the hole shown in the above picture.

Shawn
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"I choose to use CAA on old cars with character...instead of car payments on a new car Smile "

1973 Westfalia, Camper Special with 75 FI. Automatic 003 . Non-pop top
1977 Porsche 911S Targa, 2.7 L with 5spd
1992 Passat G60 Syncro Wagon (SOLD)
1975 Westfalia (SOLD)
1979 Westfalia (SOLD)
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brownONE
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
...The 72-74's pick up air from below the cylinders...


does anyone have a diagram of these earlier bays' ductwork, so that i know what i'm looking for at the junkyard?
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brownONE
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
...The 72-74's pick up air from below the cylinders...


does anyone have a diagram of these earlier bays' ductwork, so that i know what i'm looking for at the junkyard?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not too sure you would get much heat out of the booster fan duct under driving conditions, too far upstream to pick up much heat.

The 72-74's pick up air from below the cylinders, never tried but the early duct should work on a later bus with a bit of hole cutting.
A hose or two through the firewall tin and back into the lower tin would work great. Or down through the rear tin by the dipstick or over the coil.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

brownONE wrote:


i have a weber progressive and want to try this BUT i dont have the "preheater inlet" (because my 77 came with FI?)

how can i hook this up?

if i dont have an auxiliary booster fan, and the pipes coming out from the engine tin are to be capped off anyway, can i run a pipe from there up to the intake?

thanks,
BROWN


That would be a slight plus at a minimum, not real sure how it would compare. You may be able to find the 72-75 parts on eBay or in the Samba classifieds. I see them in wrecking yards all the time.

What I did on mine is tap into the pipe going up to the heater control flapper. Heats plenty fast this way. I have a thermostatically controlled valve installed, don't know if it would get too hot without it as I never tried it that way.
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brownONE
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

davis911s wrote:


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From the rear engine access

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and good news, This modification has worked EXCELLENT! Laughing
No more stalling in cooler and wetter weather, I am VERY happy

Shawn


i have a weber progressive and want to try this BUT i dont have the "preheater inlet" (because my 77 came with FI?)

how can i hook this up?

if i dont have an auxiliary booster fan, and the pipes coming out from the engine tin are to be capped off anyway, can i run a pipe from there up to the intake? if so, which of the 2?

thanks,
BROWN
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davis911s
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is how mine looks

BEFORE

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Top SEALED

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Look at the airfilter

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From the rear engine access

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and good news, This modification has worked EXCELLENT! Laughing
No more stalling in cooler and wetter weather, I am VERY happy

Shawn
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"I choose to use CAA on old cars with character...instead of car payments on a new car Smile "

1973 Westfalia, Camper Special with 75 FI. Automatic 003 . Non-pop top
1977 Porsche 911S Targa, 2.7 L with 5spd
1992 Passat G60 Syncro Wagon (SOLD)
1975 Westfalia (SOLD)
1979 Westfalia (SOLD)
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barryman
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

davis911s wrote:
Oil Phil-M wrote:
Found that a 2 inch pvc female-female coupler fit perfectly in the opening and an aluminum heater hose from a bug fit perfetly onto the coupler. For the carb I fabricated a box out of sheet metal that encased the air filter and another pvc coupler for a "snout".


I just did the same thing 3 days ago. It has worked great so far although the weather here has been nice, so not really a test.

I built my "box" from a 8"x8"x4" electrical juntion box Laughing worked excellent

As for the EFE I got a used one from a Chev Chevette and it looks like it will fit excellent, but I have not tried it yet. Wnat to work one thing at a time. Wink

Shawn


Can you guys post pix? That would be uber-helpful!
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davis911s
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil Phil-M wrote:
Found that a 2 inch pvc female-female coupler fit perfectly in the opening and an aluminum heater hose from a bug fit perfetly onto the coupler. For the carb I fabricated a box out of sheet metal that encased the air filter and another pvc coupler for a "snout".


I just did the same thing 3 days ago. It has worked great so far although the weather here has been nice, so not really a test.

I built my "box" from a 8"x8"x4" electrical juntion box Laughing worked excellent

As for the EFE I got a used one from a Chev Chevette and it looks like it will fit excellent, but I have not tried it yet. Wnat to work one thing at a time. Wink

Shawn
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"I choose to use CAA on old cars with character...instead of car payments on a new car Smile "

1973 Westfalia, Camper Special with 75 FI. Automatic 003 . Non-pop top
1977 Porsche 911S Targa, 2.7 L with 5spd
1992 Passat G60 Syncro Wagon (SOLD)
1975 Westfalia (SOLD)
1979 Westfalia (SOLD)
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Underdog65
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EFE Page http://www.carburetion.com/efe.htm here is a site that sell the plat you show in your thread have not order one yet but will be soon hope it help some one.
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Duncwarw
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice.

I mis-typed. The body is not the problem. The engine moves around sort of within the body. That's where the need for flexibility arises.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duncwarw wrote:
Metal line is a big help but you have to have a flexible bit where the line leaves the body to enter the engine room.


Actually it is quite possible for the fuel line to enter the engine bay through the metal of the body instead of through the front engine tin. On my '74 I had no rubber at all until I was at the top of the engine bay. Look at how the fuel line enters the engine bay in this photo.

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