Front heater core cut off valve. Is there such a thing?

[plummerdesign]

Welcome to the Samba!
Merry Christmas too!
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Yes, what you are describing just might be a secondary heater valve.
Does it look like this?
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For more on the subject, check out this post from the past:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=
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If the vehicle is not running it will not circulate the coolant (as you know), but seeing the valve tells much. The control lever will be in line with the flow when OPEN. It will be across the flow when CLOSED. Just like on the rear heater.
Nice of the previous owner to have installed it!
Cheers,
Jeffery : )
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It is old and green and it makes me grin.
1984 Westfalia 1.9

[jrichardson30]

Okay, got a new 90 westy, no heat coming from vents. I looked behind the shift cover on glovebox side and there's a manual valve with coolant hoses going into it. Did the PO install a valve or am i looking at something else? Engine is not crankable at the moment so I can't test but I am hoping I discovered a positive addition that PO made on this van! I haven't gotten underneath to investigate the OE valve being open or closed but just stumbled across this in-cab valve after reading some posts here. There is no cable connected to it. It looks almost the same as the one on the rear heater core under the seat.
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90 Vanagon Westy, 2.1 Waterboxer All Original-for now.
From Days Gone By...
80 Baby Blue Westy
75 Lime Green Superbeetle

[Terry Kay]

With the Subaru swap I know there is some heater issues, and perhaps the bypass setup will work out for you.
This makes big sense for this application.
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T.K.

[Crankey]

if your referring to me, there is a slight penalty.

if the stock valve is on, it warms up from morning start up like normal. thermostat opens as normal. overall temps run fine summer and winter so far.

when the valve is off, if I started up cold in the morning, when the thermostat opens on the engine, coolant gets sucked out of the pressure bottle and the warning light starts flashing.

this is with a subie swap.

I know Dylan puts a restrictor in his coolant bottle line for this, but I sorta like this solution. I like the idea that the coolant in this circuit is always available and flowing for the engine.

[Terry Kay]

Perhaps your over thinking and over engineering the shut off valve concept.

And here is why I'm even mentioning this.
Any motorized vehicle, piece of equipment that had an optional or factory hot water heat installed had a shut off valve installed be it cable or motorized.

No penalties, no errors in this arrangement whatsoever.

You don't have a bad idea, but it isn't really necessary.
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T.K.

[Crankey]

I'm going to install this ford valve. I don't like dead ending the coolant flow to the heater core.

it flows like this

[Terry Kay]

I don't think you neccessarily mounted it in the wrong place, I just have never been asked if it can get closer to the driver so it can be that accessable.

For me--who mounted it back under the van for a seasonal off--it wasn't even an option.
Here In the Midwest, it's either seasonally Hot or Cold, so fine tuning it wasn't a consideration.
If your going up & down mountain passes I can see where this might be an issue.
And also for me and for the most of the folks in the "flats" in the summer, the main reason I came up with that 100% positive shut off valve was so the AC system in the Van didn't have anything competing with it-- Cold Air only.
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T.K.

[singler3360]

[Terry Kay]

I don't think that the lever on the valve wil support a cable pulling and pushing on it.
How difficult can it be to lean over a hair and flip it on or off with your thumb & index finger?

I'll have to come up with an electric motor model for the physically impared--
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T.K.

[singler3360]

Has anyone successfully rigged up a dash mounted control switch for Terry's ball valve? Like an earlier poster mentioned, our seasons can change daily or by elevation change. It's awkward and cumbersome to reach behind the front vent cover while driving.

Any pics on how it attaches to the lever at the valve?

I'd rather not replace Terry's valve and just want something that looks nice on the dash that works. Can be cable driven or otherwise.

Thanks.

[joseph928]

Following this, put in valve this weekend. On a 1987 syncro, we put in a new heater control valve and a shut off valve . But after all the talk about how hard it is to get to, we took out the radiator set on a stool and took out the stock valve, to easy. Then used a Libbie bong and all done!
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1987 syncro westy tin top sun roof , GW2.3, rear locker, decoupler, Gary Lee tire rack & winch mount, lift, south african grill, big brakes , rhein alloy ,15 BFG AT, Fiamma 10 foot awning ,140 watt rear 85 watt front solar , mppt, truckfridge, automatic fire extinguishing system, tencent oil cooler, And a RMW SS exhaust! - 1971 bug convertible 1776 engine- 2010 Subaru turbo - 1993 Toyota 4x4 truck - 1999 Harley 95 CI, big bore, Andrews cams . Also 80-84- vans. Stock 65 sunroof bug.

[MacFhearguis]

Thanks for the confirmation.

I agree it is a bit bodgy, but I'd rather a non-leaking van than the prospect of a new control valve bad out of the box again.

[Darren2dream]

MacF, yes it's safe.. You are just swapping one (poorly made plastic one that leaks) for another one in a slightly different location. I found that if you put it in just the right spot, you'll still be able to adjust the heat while driving...

I do miss just using the original dash control though. Seems a bit janky to control the heat by reaching down by the passengers left shin.
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84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[MacFhearguis]

Bringing this back to life for a few.

Is it safe to entirely delete the stock VW control valve? I've got a new one in that leaks right out the gate, and worse than the old one!

I'd like to replace the heater line from the plastic barb all the way to the cab, and install a TK-style ball valve.

Will this effect the function of the cooling system as a whole, or am I just substituting one valve for the other and worrying too much that I might affect the cooling system?

Thanks all.

G

[Vasa]

I purchased Terry Kay's shut-off valve-- it works perfectly.

[Darren2dream]

Tonight was awesome!
I pulled the leaky front heater valve, put in a straight brass hose connecter there, then put in a new brass ball valve under the dash.. I placed the valve just right so I can still turn it on/off without removing the lower dash part or interfering with the glove box. Really happy about that. All in, took about 1.5 hrs most of that was preparation & clean up.

I used two hose clamps while making each switch and didn't bleed the system after. Didn't even lose a drop of coolant somehow... ok, maybe just one drop.

Now we can take off camping this weekend with 1) no coolant leak 2) heat at our beckon call and 3) if we dont need heat, no Hotfoot!

So happy!!
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84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[Wildthings]

If you install a generic valve inside the cab, for now you could just easy reach up and move the lever on the valve itself, while eventually you could rig up a way to hook up the dash lever. Not saying that TK's valve is bad, but I think there are better options for people who need to turn their heat on and off frequently. Maybe TK could come up with a kit that would have everything needed to install a better than OEM cable operated valve.

[Darren2dream]

Thanks all for chiming in here and honestly, helping me calm my frustrations down a bit. I guess I'm not alone battling this weak valve... A new part just shouldn't leak after 2 months.

I'm absolutely going to put in the TK style valve under the dash to control the heat going forward but, it does kinda break my heart to no longer be able to control the heat from the in dash heat control leaver... I live in the CA Bay Area and we have days in summer that need heat and days in winter that need A/C. Removing the dash cover and adjusting a valve mid trip will not instill a massive amount of trust from any passengers.

If the standard valve was in a more easily accessible place, I focus on fixing it proper. For now, I dont have the time or patience.
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84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[Bercilak]

Wildthings,

I agree, that would probably work, but today was the next-to-last time I will be screwing around with that valve.

I don't like that I have to drop the spare to get to it, and then it's tight up in there next to the radiator fan; it could just have easily been above the fold, so to speak, on the right side of the heater assembly, or below it, behind the fan.

Since I live in SoCal, I have the luxury, if you will, to use TK's solution with a minimum of hassle. I'll turn the heat off in, well now (that was the point of today's exercise) and back on in November.

I might at some point try to figure out how to fab up a real valve that can be adjusted with the slider, but I'm not too sanguine about my chances; that slider assembly is no prize either. If I do, though, you can rest assured that the valve will be accessible from somewhere OTHER than the bottom of the car!

Thanks for your insight and advice, here and re: the exhaust manifolds; I really appreciate how much you guys help me understand and fix my van.

Best,

B.

[Wildthings]

I think a good solution would be to pick up a generic heater valve from your local FLAPS and then install it inside the van and adapt the original cable to work with it. Shouldn't take all that much effort to figure out. Even a generic valve installed in the original location shouldn't be all that hard to figure out.