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klucz
Samba Member
Joined: February 14, 2006
Posts: 1062
Location: Chicago, IL
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 Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 12:39 am Post subject: |
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Heres a piece of a letter my aunt wrote last month. She's a former Bay Westy and Vanagon Westy driver and has been going to Baja for a long time. She's there now in her Suby.
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Despite the news coverages of various nasty stuff in Tijuana, drug lords and police shootouts, attacks on hapless tourists (who were stupid enough to drive in the middle of the night), etc., our drive down was uneventful and easy. The roads are improved again. The police and federale presence was major, and the check points at times slightly more serious even for people going south. For people going north it looked somewhat intense.
Los Cerritos, our favorite beach is rapidly changing. Fences, property lines... now in private hands what was once all eido land and wide open. There are still some campers (tents) but nothing like the first years down, and the trailer park is gone so the hardy trailer folks are way down in the desert. The sad part is that the developer, who must be incredibly rich, has cut the top right off the hill at the end of the beach and is constructing his 20,000 sq foot pleasure palace, complete with transplanted palms on the top of the rocks (everyone wonders about hurricane season).
The up side is the beach is way cleaner than ever.
But Josefina the cool lady in the fish taco shack is gone -- shoved out by the developer but some say trying to fight him -- and the Los Cerritos Beach Club (a nice enough looking edific e) serves $6 (dollars) beer and $10 (dollars) tacos etc.... so more than ever the word is carry your own picnic. But I miss Josefina's fish tacos. (10$ pesos)
Yesterday we went to Palm Beach which is absolutely unchanged and still the wonderous beach.
TS is on the surface little changed but we have yet to go check to gringo area and we hear development is rampant. We also hear there's a ton for sale. Quien sabe?
Baja still has its powerful beautiful.
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dbcdad
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2006
Posts: 189
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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I Have been taking my family down to Punta Cabras for the past ten years, in August, and never have had a problem. We either camp on the beach where this picture was taken or on the bluffs above. We have made great freinds who live out there and will miss them.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/420941.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/420942.jpg
We love it but before I heard of all this BS going on we had decided to try a different place because it is just getting way to crowded and noisey with all the toys people bring. I still don't think I will go back for a couple of years at this point.
have fun as Always, David C |
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floggingmolly
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2007
Posts: 1106
Location: San Diego, CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the recent info. Were you driving along the toll road during the day?
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PIRATE
Samba Member
Joined: May 05, 2005
Posts: 253
Location: San clemente CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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I was down there two weeks ago... DO NOT STOP IF YOU GET LIT UP!!!!!! until you pass Ensenada. I stoped and four guys came out of the car I bailed and drove as fast as I could to the next toll both and they followed me. eventually they bailed MY VAN has never seen 80 MPH for that long of a time. All I brought was 2 cans of mace.
ANY WAY DONT LET FEAR CONTROL YOUR LIFE.
spoken like a true 22 year old surfer
I camped up in the national park I could see mount diablo Its amazing up there its like yosemite with no one there and the gnarlyest road you've ever drivin.
even down near cuatros casas people are getting held up at gun point because all the little drug dealers are getting put out of work so to feed their families they are just robbing people.
go far down and try and shelter yourself. |
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psych-illogical
Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2004
Posts: 1181
Location: AZ
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 11:31 am Post subject: |
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| j_dirge wrote: |
my pulse always slowed a bit after we reached Rosarito.. it slowed even more when we pass the turnoff for LA Bufadora (south of Ensenada).. and by the time we turned up the HWY away from San Quintin, I was on Baja time.
Damn I love it down there. Why has it been near 9 yrs since I've been back? |
Man! I am totally with you on this. Though I was just there last spring it doesn't take long for me to get the itch to get back down there. I just love the pace that life takes down there. 
Targis58; I don't know about routes from CA as I always drive down from AZ and enter somewhere near Yuma. Hopefully someone else will chime in. I've camped at Puertacitos about an hour south of San Felipe. Very small village but we found a place at the south end of the village that rented us a thatch roofed palapa right on the beach for $5/night. South of there the road turns to dirt for 100 miles or so. If you stay on the main highway it's pretty easy to get to Bajia de Los Angeles and theres plenty of camping on the beach just north of town. We had miles of beach to ourselves last spring. It is rocky, not sandy, beach there. I've also camped way down the peninsula north of La Paz and LaPaz is a really nice city of about 300,000 people. I've heard that there's wonderful camping on the east cape north of Cabo as well but I've not yet checked that out. If you like fat tourists in bermuda shorts with golf clubs, go to Cabo. But then again it'd be cheaper to just go to San Diego  .
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floggingmolly
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2007
Posts: 1106
Location: San Diego, CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 11:29 am Post subject: |
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| targis58 wrote: |
| Judging by what everyone has said - you're better off heading towards the Sea of Cortez these days. |
what is the best route to drive down there from CA?
Can anyone give more info. about the sea of cortez? what to do there and where to camp sorta stuff?[/quote]
To get to the northern Sea of Cortez, you could cross at Mexicali and head down to San Felipe and Puertecitos, on MEX 5. Or cross at Tecate and take MEX 2 to MEX 5. Beyond Puertecitos is Gonzaga Bay, on unpaved roads. The road south of Gonzaga Bay is brutal from what I hear, that will eventually connect you back up with MEX 1 south of Catavina. I have never been over to that side (northern) except Guadalupe Canyon and the hot springs.
The southern Sea of Cortez is accessed by MEX 1. MEX 1 heads south and zig zags across the peninsula until you get to San Ignacio. San Ignacion oasis is very cool with good camping on the "lake", and San Ignacio Lagoon on the Pacific is great for whale watching, no better experience anywhere in the world. That's why we go. The road ot the Lagoon is washboard, but doable. MEX 1 turns east at San Ignacio town and heads mostly straight for the Sea of Cortez at Santa Rosalia. Fromt here is goes along and just inland of the coast line for several hundred miles. I would stop along where it looks nice and there is camping. Mulege is cool, so is Punta Chivato. Many camp sites along the stretch of Bahia de Concepcion, El requeson is not to miss. I haven't been further than Loreto, which is a decent size town and nice.
Scott
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Last edited by floggingmolly on Thu Mar 06, 2008 11:33 am; edited 1 time in total |
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j_dirge
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007
Posts: 4641
Location: Twain Harte, CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 11:29 am Post subject: |
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| targis58 wrote: |
| Judging by what everyone has said - you're better off heading towards the Sea of Cortez these days. |
I think what is meant there is that in the North,, it *may* be better to head to the Sea of Cortez side.
If you do.. the main destination on the map is San Felipe... but most of the fun of Baja is continuing down the any dirt road you might stumble on to see what is there.. and camp where ever your rig might sit flat...just so long as it isn't in someone's rancheria (even then it is possible to get permission).. There was a very rough dirt road south out of San Felipe that reconnected to the main HWY well south. It was not for the faint of heart.. and I can't speak to the passability (wd?) of it today.. its been 20 yrs since I did that one.
The middle strip of the peninsula between Pac and Sea side is home to amazing geology, fantastic cactii, sunsets like you've never seen. And the stars! At night at the higher elevations around Catavina? Just amazing.. BTW it can get cold in the winter and northern peaks have seen snow.
Otherwise, I would respecffully disagree with the "Sea of Cortez" side being better. The Pacific side has countless hidden gems.. beaches where you won't see another human for days/weeks.. turtle nesting, whale watching, lonely surf, spear diving PAR LUX! (but don't take any lobster)
Crystal clean water... perfectly temped for hot summer dips.
I'd list off spots, but I'd have to watch my back. The "Secret Spots" are alive and well in Baja. Part of the fun is finding your own.
Anyway.. lots of great info is on the web. google Baja and read the personal blogs. Great towns include Mulege, Loreto, La Paz (which had a little Chinatown). San Jose del Cabo.. and really just about EVERYthing in between.
The Pac side.. I still like San Quintin (the beach to the far west and the bluffs south)
Punta San Carlos.
Theres a 60 mile drive on dirt due west from Catavina (a great desert stop in its own right).. - 2WD ok - careful traversing in winter, rains will wash you out and leave you stranded for a day or two while arroyos dry up. 4WD doesn't help much there.
You can do a 250 mile offroad loop down to Punta Santa Rosallila (loads of lobsters to be had from locals).. great deserted beaches north and south. 4WD helps.. 2WD and a winch should suffice.
Geurrero Negro (Scammons Lagoon) and points west for some serious survival wilderness driving..
Magdelena Bay
Punta Canejo
Todos Santos (the town) miles of deserted beach north..
and even Cabo is worth a stop, if for no other reason than to say you saw it and turned around an left it behind.
sigh.
Last edited by j_dirge on Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:04 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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targis58
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2006
Posts: 539
Location: sunnyvale,ca
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Judging by what everyone has said - you're better off heading towards the Sea of Cortez these days.[/quote]
what is the best route to drive down there from CA?
Can anyone give more info. about the sea of cortez? what to do there and where to camp sorta stuff?
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90 westy 2wd w/ TBD |
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j_dirge
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007
Posts: 4641
Location: Twain Harte, CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 10:07 am Post subject: |
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| seabright_sc wrote: |
| Play it safe, avoid camping solo/traveling at night and you should be fine. If you do need/want to camp in northern baja... check out one of the many camping in baja books. We found some great campsites and it was reassuring to be camped with a least a couple of other travelers. Have Fun. |
In 1987, a friend and I rode mountain bikes (w/ surfboards) from San Francisco CA to Cabo San Lucas.
We camped everywhere along the way. Times have changed no doubt, but many of the "safety concerns" come down to comfort levels.
As bike tourists we did not have much to take.. so maybe "they" left us alone. Though, I was later robbed in Mismaloya (PV, mainland) on the same trip.
An interesting anecdote about perceived safety. Near the turnoff fo Bahia de LA, we stopped at a small mercado for some fresh produce for our dinner that evening. The owner was very interested to hear our story. Bike tourists were rare in those days.. mostly Euros. And this fellow had never seen gringos riding bikes with surfboards (not to mention riding in the middle of the peninsula 100 miles or more from the nearest wave)
But I digress...
We had said we would be camping another 10-12 miles down the road. We usually stopped where we could find a spot to steal away from the road and camp behind a mound or ridge.. out of sight and out of the glare and noise of the night time truck traffic. Our only weapons, being a couple dive knives
This gentlemen was concerned for our safety and insisted that we hang our hammocks in his yard (front of the store between the road and his store counter).
We said "fine". "Thanks"
After a bit, he was readying to leave with some friends when I noticed that he was handing his wife a gun.
Were they afraid of us?.. or were they afraid FOR us?
I slept a bit fitfully that night.
The next morning, my friend (more fluent in spanish) asked of we worried them... and the woman sheepishly said. "You never know"
Sad reality is.. we scare some of them, too.
A side note. Night time driving in Baja is not so bad. Keep it under 45 and stay alert.. no drowsies. Install some bright-ass driving lights and don't be afraid to use them. You can see trucks from miles away and they will make room. If you are in the least bit concerned, find a spot and pull over to make even more room. Extra caution is needed near towns as drunk driving there is still a sport (or was 10 yrs ago).
I've driven 100s of miles at night and have not experienced anything worse than the typical night-time drive through the central vally on 2 lane county roads.
Just take your time and pay attention. Whats the rush anyway?
There are wars being waged in Los Angeles, Oakland, and Richmond, CA.
I don't go into those parts of Oakland and Richmond at night either.
Tijuana may be best traveled in broad daylight and with no stops..
I agree, my pulse always slowed a bit after we reached Rosarito.. it slowed even more when we pass the turnoff for LA Bufadora (south of Ensenada).. and by the time we turned up the HWY away from San Quintin, I was on Baja time.
Damn I love it down there. Why has it been near 9 yrs since I've been back? |
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seabright_sc
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Joined: October 29, 2004
Posts: 279
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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| We did a three week baja trip last winter with no problems. We spoke with many people, both locals and fellow travelers. Most gave the same sound advice.... TJ to ensanada=sketchy, especially after dark. Many folks felt everything north of san quintin was risky. We did our research and I've continued to check out the articles about problems. Almost always it comes down to traveling at night (a serious baja no-no), nice 4x4s (toys don't help either), camping north of san quintin on the coast, yet not in secured/established campground and/or camping solo. Play it safe, avoid camping solo/traveling at night and you should be fine. If you do need/want to camp in northern baja... check out one of the many camping in baja books. We found some great campsites and it was reassuring to be camped with a least a couple of other travelers. Have Fun. |
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Lanval
Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2007
Posts: 905
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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| levi wrote: |
As usual, it's the people with actual experience, repeated experience, who say everything is cool (if you are).
And in the other corner we have the folks who have heard the fear, and repeat it. |
There is a war going on in TJ ~ the Mexican gov't, the local TJ gov't and the Federales admit it.
The LA Times isn't claiming universal truth, but it's hard to see why the experience of one individual here should trump the experiences of others. I've been to Mexico (TJ as well as other points along the beach, as have my brother and various friends) and had no problems. To extrapolate from my experience that anyone is safe traveling in Mexico would be anti-intellectual at best, dangerous at worst.
Yes you can travel there; no it's not as safe as other places. Go in with your eyes open if you go.
Best,
Lanval |
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floggingmolly
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2007
Posts: 1106
Location: San Diego, CA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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We are relatively seasoned travelers down there, my wife and I (5 years). The federales have been nothing but polite and friendly on every occassion, all people we have met down there come to think of it. We behave well, are respectful to all down there, and treat it as our own, often times better than the locals. We go to be quiet and relax, not booze it up and attract attention to ourselves.
I am considering the drive through Tecate to Ensenada as sc-surfer suggested.
I agree that the people who have quoted or referred to articles (and I do appreciate those guys) refer me to the same 2 or 3 articles I have read over and over. We do not spend any time above LA Bay, except for the drive and an overnight in Catavina, well south of the areas where the crimes occured.
Hopefully Baja will get a handle on this, and I think they are making an effort, because several folks we know and contacted down there say it has hurt their business. They say people have canceled due to the reported violence.
I found it interesting that one article was published in Feb 2008 (Newsweek) about a kidnapping in 2005. Seems like yellow, or at least opportunistic journalism to me, just to sell magazines.
Sea of Cortez IS where we go, except for the whales at San Ignacio, not to be missed. The blue warm water of the Sea of Crotez is what draws us there, as well as the San Ignacio Oasis.
Scott
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levi
Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2005
Posts: 5522
Location: Las Vegas
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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As usual, it's the people with actual experience, repeated experience, who say everything is cool (if you are).
And in the other corner we have the folks who have heard the fear, and repeat it.
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One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way
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rockfish
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2007
Posts: 740
Location: Palo Alto, Calif.
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Lanval wrote: |
Um, dangerous to a certain extent. Here's a link to some info in Texas:
http://www.newschannel5.tv/2008/2/25/987179/State-Agency-Memo--Discourage-Travelers-Headed-to-Mexico
I couldn't find it, but there was a recent article in the LA Times about this; a number of locals (SoCal Travelers who go relatively often) being held at gunpoint, etc., and refusing to go back.
There is open warfare at this point between the cops and the drug dealers in the border area of TJ, and if soldiers on the street doesn't convince you, I don't know what will.
ah, found it:
Here's an abstract from the LA Times article ~ if we have university access here, I'll try and get the whole article for you.
http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/access/1430802...h+and+dry.
In any event, travel with a considerable amount of caution, if you are not familiar with the process of traveling in Mexico.
Best,
Lanval |
Try this link:
http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-tijuana17feb17,1,7541274.story
Judging by what everyone has said - you're better off heading towards the Sea of Cortez these days.
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89 Westy
GW 2.5 5-speed trans
"It's what you learn after you know it all that counts."
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j_dirge
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007
Posts: 4641
Location: Twain Harte, CA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:37 am Post subject: |
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Have traveled the peninsula a fair amount.
Surfers get picked on for a reason.. and yes I am a surfer.
I doubt times have changed THAT much. Increased weird activity is mostly located in the far north. Beyond that your biggest threat is yourself.
Staying relatively sober and showing respect for the locals is the best way to stay out of trouble. During an extended stay down there (4 months) I came to know several locals. They don't want the trouble either and they really wish Americasn would just chill out and be a bit more friendly.
All that for what it is. Each problem I've had south of the border was brought on by my own (or an acquaintance's) behavior. In a couple instances it was other Americans that were the ones that broke into my car.
I'd really recommend you pay attention to who you keep company with.. there are a lot of American ne'r-do-wells that troll the towns. Locals don't like them. They don't like visitors who hang with them. These people are easy to spot.
My motto was to treat Baja like I'd want people to treat my own house and yard. It worked well for me from 1983-1999. And I look forward to another trip soon.. particularly now that I have friends with homes deep in the south, there. (and a more relaible Westy)
Enjoy your trip and relax. I honestly believe its safer in Baja than most anywhere stateside. |
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DeMinimis
I Eat Glue
Joined: November 16, 2004
Posts: 1846
Location: Down in the pig mine
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:09 am Post subject: |
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Don't think I haven't thought about that. I'm gonna have a big bullseye on my back on the next trip down (however, with a 600+ mile range, I only have to stop once from top to bottom).
On the last trip, we were hauling my buggy on a car trailer. It was like we were rock stars. Adults and kids came out of the woodwork when we stopped. Not to ask for anything, but just to ask about the buggy and chat. The folks in Baja love the off-roaders, it seems. Lots of waves and smiles.
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Yes Virginia, beer can make you smarter.
'78 SB CEII In Progress. |
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psych-illogical
Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2004
Posts: 1181
Location: AZ
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:05 am Post subject: |
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| otiswesty wrote: |
| Also, the high risk people are the ones in the new Suburban (lifted) pulling a trailer with 4 ATV's, a couple of motorcycles, gas cans, coolers and on and on. |
Or a fancy, lifted Ford diesel Sportsmobile (sorry, DeMinimis, couldn't help myself)
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'96 BMW R1100GS |
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sc-surfer
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2005
Posts: 865
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:03 am Post subject: |
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I'm headed that way next month. Instead of the usual TJ-Ensenada route I'm going to go in through Tacate, and head straight to Ensenada. Just skip the TJ area altogether. Seems most of the trouble spots can be avoided this way.
Just my $.02
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Catalog of Vans at SDM 2010
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DeMinimis
I Eat Glue
Joined: November 16, 2004
Posts: 1846
Location: Down in the pig mine
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:29 am Post subject: |
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Forgot to mention, the best, most up-to-date and reliable information regarding traveling in Baja that I have found is a website www.bajanomad.com Might want to give it a look. Most any question you might have has already been answered, in spades in the forums section of that site.
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Yes Virginia, beer can make you smarter.
'78 SB CEII In Progress. |
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Lanval
Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2007
Posts: 905
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:23 am Post subject: |
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Um, dangerous to a certain extent. Here's a link to some info in Texas:
http://www.newschannel5.tv/2008/2/25/987179/State-Agency-Memo--Discourage-Travelers-Headed-to-Mexico
I couldn't find it, but there was a recent article in the LA Times about this; a number of locals (SoCal Travelers who go relatively often) being held at gunpoint, etc., and refusing to go back.
There is open warfare at this point between the cops and the drug dealers in the border area of TJ, and if soldiers on the street doesn't convince you, I don't know what will.
ah, found it:
Here's an abstract from the LA Times article ~ if we have university access here, I'll try and get the whole article for you.
http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/access/1430802...h+and+dry.
In any event, travel with a considerable amount of caution, if you are not familiar with the process of traveling in Mexico.
Best,
Lanval |
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