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Accelerator Cable Issues
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Blue69Baja
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you even hook the cable to the throttle arm make sure that there is absolutely no drag in the throttle arm. It must move freely, if it binds at all it will cause a problem like we were seeing in the video. I fought this problem for a bit. My cause was on the accelerator pump linkage.

Jim
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motofly196
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old thread I know...but I'm having the same troubles right now....what did you find out was your problem??

Scott
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, I made a couple adjustments as provided by keifernet; the results:

Test One. Carb only, no cable attached:


Link


All looks good there.

Test Two. Cable installed, pulled finger tight only.


Link


Test Three. Cable installed, new barrel clamp, again finger tight


Link



I took some time and lubed the crap out of the pedal. I pulled the cable out completely (again) and heavily regreased it.

Brick wall
Still not fixed...
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I broke out the universal cable, still with the original issue; the lever wont return to the cam.
I pulled the cable out completely, went to the carb, and I now see with no cable at all, the lever still doesnt reach the cam completely. With the cable in it is much more pronounced though. Without the cable, it is slight, but noticeable. Somehow I missed it before.
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Kelley
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aside from the flex tube and guide tube issues stated here, I always get the Bugpack universal off road throttle cables. They're thicker than stock and are a minimum .5 meter longer as well. Just run it through the guides and sleeves, through the barrel clamp and tighten down. Use a solder gun and solder about 2.5" - 3" past the barrel clamp for about an inch, then snip the excess off in the middle of the solder point.

The soldering helps keep the cable from fraying and stabbing you when you're doing work in that area later on. If you use a minimum of solder(sweat it on with heat, don't just glob it on the point of the gun) you shouldn't have a problem removing the cable from the barrel clamp next time.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just another take on this situation, the tube from the chassis, the flex tube, and the steel guide tube are designed to interconnect with one another, make sure you have all the tubes connected together properly, when all the tubes are connected together properly, their total length will be shorter than if the tubes are just butted together, thus allowing more slack in the exposed portion of the cable. Good luck, I hope this helps you out. Very Happy
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:
keifernet wrote:
...Effectively putting more "bend" in the flex tube... taking away over all length of cable? I can see what I am saying but it may be a crazy theory. I can picture it in my mind though... like having "too much" bend in the clutch bowden tube.

Well, I see what you're saying too, and it must be accurate...there's not much else in the way of explanation...I just had my engine out, and just put a zip tie on the cable guide, on the tin side, not the shroud. Had no problem with the accel cable, but the zip tie was only about 1/8" wide.

EZ Gruv wrote:
But right now, the cable cannot reach the barrel clamp at all.
So again a puzzle: how did it reach before, when you didn't touch the hose clamp? Actually, you DID pull the sleeve back, so try playing with it or removing the clamp like Keith says.


He must have pulled on it with pliers or something and when he effectively stretched all the slack out of it he could it to get it to fit it simply held the throttle open ( at least that is what I saw in the video's)
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
...Effectively putting more "bend" in the flex tube... taking away over all length of cable? I can see what I am saying but it may be a crazy theory. I can picture it in my mind though... like having "too much" bend in the clutch bowden tube.

Well, I see what you're saying too, and it must be accurate...there's not much else in the way of explanation...I just had my engine out, and just put a zip tie on the cable guide, on the tin side, not the shroud. Had no problem with the accel cable, but the zip tie was only about 1/8" wide.

EZ Gruv wrote:
But right now, the cable cannot reach the barrel clamp at all.
So again a puzzle: how did it reach before, when you didn't touch the hose clamp? Actually, you DID pull the sleeve back, so try playing with it or removing the clamp like Keith says.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought you said you had one of those "universal" cable kits laying around?
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
maybe you can just use one of these and call it good ? Laughing

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-2569


Maybe, if it cures the original problem anyway! Razz
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe you can just use one of these and call it good ? Laughing

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-2569
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is what my mind sees as well!
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:
Keith, I see what you mean about the clamp. But doesn't the sleeve simply slide over the cable? Why would it prevent the cable from reaching the back?

EZ Gruv, one time I had the same problem, and to fix it I just loosened the barrel clamp on the carb, let the cable go back maybe 1/8", and retightened. For some reason the barrel clamp was binding and causing a problem.


The flexible guide tube slides up onto about 1- 1 1/2 inches of the solid metal tube... right there behind the tin. If the clamp is in the way on that side... the tube cannot slide up as far. Effectively putting more "bend" in the flex tube... taking away over all length of cable? I can see what I am saying but it may be a crazy theory. I can picture it in my mind though... like having "too much" bend in the clutch bowden tube.
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:

EZ Gruv, one time I had the same problem, and to fix it I just loosened the barrel clamp on the carb, let the cable go back maybe 1/8", and retightened. For some reason the barrel clamp was binding and causing a problem.


But right now, the cable cannot reach the barrel clamp at all.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EZ Gruv wrote:
keifernet wrote:
but IMHO that hose clamp in the place it is in could be making your cable off by 1/4-1/2 "

That's the next thing I would eliminate.


Right, just need to figure out how the hell to do that! That's going to be a pain for sure trying to get a clamp off up there blindly.


I can't really tell from that pic if that a small fuel hose style clamp or not. If it is then I would use a small 1/4 socket/nut driver that fits it instead of a flat blade screwdriver.


Also you might be able to use a long prybar from the drivers side inside the engine compt and bend/flex the rear tin back into the engine compt ( a helper doing this while you....) and then attack it from the pass side.

Instead of trying it from up underneath which would be a big challenge. Someone obviously put that clamp in that spot BEFORE the engine was last installed.

Or even grab the metal tube from the fan housing out side ( maybe get the carb out off out of the way) and you might can pull the tube out with pliers and the clamp would just slide/fall off the back end of the tube and come off that way.


Last edited by keifernet on Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith, I see what you mean about the clamp. But doesn't the sleeve simply slide over the cable? Why would it prevent the cable from reaching the back?

EZ Gruv, one time I had the same problem, and to fix it I just loosened the barrel clamp on the carb, let the cable go back maybe 1/8", and retightened. For some reason the barrel clamp was binding and causing a problem.
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
but IMHO that hose clamp in the place it is in could be making your cable off by 1/4-1/2 "

That's the next thing I would eliminate.


Right, just need to figure out how the hell to do that! That's going to be a pain for sure trying to get a clamp off up there blindly.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EZ Gruv wrote:
keifernet wrote:

Also if you took a cable out that was too short and put one in the same length what was that supposed to change? Laughing Wink


Well, the old cable fit through fine, before I pulled it out of the bug.
Here is video proof! You can see it sticking through the barrel clamp.


Link


It has to have something to do with the flex tube. (in my head anyway)


Yeah I was just giving you shiate Razz
We did talk about that already... and I already told Erik about the possibility of a cable change by chassis number around 74 year model. There were also different length flex guide tubes over the years. No telling what you have going on but IMHO that hose clamp in the place it is in could be making your cable off by 1/4-1/2 "

I also warned about cables being packaged that are NOT the correct length stated/marked what have you as I have run across that many times.

That's the next thing I would eliminate.
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Accelerator Cable Issues Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:

What is the production date on your Bug?


Pretty sure it is 2/74.
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:

Also if you took a cable out that was too short and put one in the same length what was that supposed to change? Laughing Wink


Well, the old cable fit through fine, before I pulled it out of the bug.
Here is video proof! You can see it sticking through the barrel clamp.


Link


It has to have something to do with the flex tube. (in my head anyway)
Oh, and it is defintely well connected at the chasis side.
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