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tisius
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Location: Rotterdam,NL (+Chicago,IL)
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 Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2015 5:48 am Post subject: |
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| si fly wrote: |
Here is another question that does not really relate very much but what is this little filter?
(the fuel line is not connected)
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Fuel filter.
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EA812
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Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1231
Location: North central, CT
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| Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:49 am Post subject: |
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| I did this so long ago I don't remember how the back tab was by the trans but do remember stuffing my hand in there fighting with it! It was necessary to take the peddle cluster out. I know, I know it can be a little bit annoying. Take ur time with it but that's how I pulled the fuel line with pliers and that front tab is right there. the clip by the e brake I think we missed it since it didn't all go to plan. I used zip ties and sprayed everything in the tunnel afterwards with Eastwood's rust encapsulater. now its all glued in place. The clips that I did get it through I did reclose. You don't want the line just banging around in there so it is worth closing them back up. |
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EA812
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Location: North central, CT
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| Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:58 am Post subject: |
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The first inspection hole is at the frame head (axle beam was off for pic)
and you have to go through the spare tire compartment. Look for this opening
Last edited by EA812 on Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:50 am; edited 1 time in total |
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johnfraser
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Location: Isle of Wight
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| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 11:04 am Post subject: |
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| Upskies |
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johnfraser
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| Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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| And is it worth closing the tabs back up after?!? |
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johnfraser
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Joined: January 26, 2009
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| Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:36 am Post subject: |
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| EA812 wrote: |
!!Don't cut it open!! This is how I did it on my 65.
This is something someone wrote up in the past. Who ever you are thank you!
First off, you don't need to cut any holes in your pan. If the body is still on the car you will need to remove the following items to use the existing access holes. Remove the front bumper and the front access cover in the frame head; remove the pedal assembly, shifter and inspection cover under the rear seat. Last of all you will need to remove the large bolt at the rear of the vehicle that secures the trans bracket on the tube that the fuel line comes out of. This will allow you a hole to look in when running the new line.
Second, The fuel line is not welded inside the tunnel, it is held in place by 2 tabs that are bent around the tube. One is located just rear if the pedal access hole and the other is accessible through the rear inspection hole and is where the rear frame tube is attached to the pan. (There is also a clip that holds the line to the clutch cable tube under the e-brake handle. You can see it if you take the boot off. That is were we broke the string pulling the new one in.) You can reach the rear one with a screwdriver to bend it open slightly. The front one is a little harder. I took a 4 ft long piece of 1/4 inch square steel tube, from Home Depot, and hammered the end flat. I reached through the front access hole and bent the strap open with it. Be patient.
Third. I broke off the existing fuel pipe where it exits the frame in the front and rear and used a screwdriver to push the tube into the frame. Then, I worked the old tube out of the frame through the pedal access hole using a pair of channel locks and pried against the opening to leverage the tube out the hole.
Now you have the old fuel line out. If you put a trouble light in the rear access hole facing forward you can look into the frame from the front access hole and you will see where to route the new fuel line.
Buy a 25ft roll of 1/4-inch steel fuel line at the auto parts store. Roll it out on the floor and tape the end to keep dirt out of it. Feed it into the frame through the front opening and don't worry about getting it in the clip until the end. Once it reaches the rear inspection hole you will have to bend it slightly to guide it down the rear tube. Turn your light in the rear inspection hole to face down the rear tube and you can look in the tube through the trans mount bolt hole. Once the tube is at the opening in the frame, use a long thin Phillips screw driver or any long round object that you can fit into the fuel line. Reach into the tube with the 1/4 inch square steel piece you got at home depot, and gently lift the fuel line up towards the opening and stick the Phillips screw driver in through the frame opening into the end of the fuel line. This will act as a guide for the line to follow up and out the hole. Now go back to the front of the vehicle
and push the line in and it will come out the rear hole very nicely. Push about 1 foot of extra out the rear frame hole to allow you to have extra for working the front into the hole. Do not cut the extra off yet.
Go to the front of the vehicle and cut the tube with a tube cutter, Make sure you can get your Phillips screw driver in the end of it so you can guide it out the frame hole like you did the rear.
Go to the rear and pull the line until the end of the tube up front is aligned with the hole in the frame and gently lift the line using the 1/4 inch steel tube and insert the Phillips screw driver in the frame opening and into the fuel line. Go to the rear and push the fuel line back into the frame and it should pop out the front hole.
Now you can adjust the tube inside the frame so it's in the straps you bent open. Use the 1/4-inch steel tube to pry the front clip back closed around the fuel line.
With your tube cutter cut the front and rear tube so you have about 4 inches sticking out. You can adjust this length later for the perfect fit.
Place the new rubber fuel line grommets over the fuel line an into the frame holes.
Reinstall your inspection cover, trans mount bolt, front access hole and front bumper and you have a new fuel line installed just like new without cutting up you car. It took me 3 hours by myself with me car body still on my 66 very. If the pan is off the car it's even easier.
It's not a bad job, just be patient and take your time. The only thing that did go wrong about the fuel line was I tied a string to the old one to pull the new one in. It snapped half why. My wife and I got real creative with strings and wires. The old line was held in by a tab in the back that clamps it to the E- brake tube. I was able to access it through the inspection cover where the shift rod attaches to the transmission. With a mirror and a screwdriver I pried it open. It was easier to close on the new line later. The next one is a clip that attaches it to the clutch cable tube under the e- brake handle. I sprayed it with WD 40 while pulling it through it. That's where the new fuel line didn't fit. It’s slightly bigger since its standard instead of metric. I used some tie wraps, the real fat ones. The last attachment point was just behind where the
pedal cluster goes into the tunnel. I was able to pry that one open with a screwdriver but it could be done from the front inspection plate by the front axle with a long bar. That's how I got it to close onto the new line. I didn't realize it at the time but I worked on it from 10:00 AM till 5:00PM but a lot of that time was spent on looking through the holes with mirrors and flashlights to see where everything was. It did help that the body and floor pans are off but It could be done with them in place.
If I had the chance to do it all over again I would try to attach the old line to the new line ( I got it from Summit Racing). Maybe use a wood screw that you cut off the head to thread it into both lines. Grind the beginning of the new line so it is a little cone shaped and grease it up. I would be willing to bet it would go through. I was able to pull the old line through that clip even the s bend part that is at the end of the chassis. I sprayed it with WD 40 to help it slip. The only thing I don't know is if there is a way to pull it through with the engine in place. I also disconnected the shifter rod so I could jam my hand in the rear inspection cover. The only thing that looks diferent is the clip holding the fuel line to the heater cable.
Brent <"OOOO={ |
am currently trying to do this as my line is snapped at both ends, right on the grommets-this is how i bought the car.
firsly-where is the front access hole? do you mean where the pedal cluster goes through? is it possible to do this tab without taking the pedals out? i have definately had my fair share of taking the damn pedals in and out.
also, what is the best way to remove the tabs? i have had a go at the rear one, tryign to pry it off the edge of the hole, it had a small weld on it and i cant break it. it has had a lot of beating with a screwdriver and hammer and wont budge.
what about the one under the e brake? mine is pretty rusty, is it easy to pull this one through or am i going to have to break the tab? is a bit of a pig to get to that one by the looks of it.
thanks alot |
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bill may
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:07 am Post subject: |
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| pathwayrev wrote: |
Just for the purposes of advancing this discussion, comment or correct the following:
The only stock filter is the copper screen inside the tank at the outlet.
Many (most?) have installed a paper-filament aftermarket filter at some point between the tank and the carb.
Is there another screen filter inside the fuel pump? That's what the picture earlier in this thread seems to suggest. Or is that a non-stock and unusual set-up?
Any other fuel filters along the line? |
2 stock filters. #1 is in tank and #2 is in fuel pump.
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bill may
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| Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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| si fly wrote: |
| WW is a little expensive for my taste and if you get what you pay for, do you think that midamerica would be like the middle of the field? |
get back to me on quality of what you bought that was not from wolfsburg west.
"pay once -cry once" Gene Berg.
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bill may
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| Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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| si fly wrote: |
Here is another question that does not really relate very much but what is this little filter?
(the fuel line is not connected)
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there are 2 stock gas filters from the factory. 1 is in fuel pump -- that one and the other is a sock type filter that is inside gas tank that is held in place by the aluminum fitting coming off the tank. does this help?
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Admin note: Bill Passed away - July, 2017
1965 panel bus-Kermit
"Camping is cheaper than therapy"
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si fly
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| Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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 That was kind of my plan.
For now i will get them to be as nice as i can and just clean up the rust then seal anywhere that there is bare metal. They still have a few years in them for sure.
When i called for a quote and they guy said about $2200 i thought he was kidding, but if anyone knows if that is just a crazy price or anything just swing some info my way.
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1959 VW Beetle Sedan, DeLuxe
Second owner
| outoftheoffice wrote: |
| You can replace them when they start lookin like swiss cheese. |
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outoftheoffice
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| Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 3:56 am Post subject: |
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Depending on the condition of yours, you could probably sell them for some decent money (maybe +/- $200/each if they are in fact original VW bumpers in good shape) to help fund some new ones. I don't know chrome pricing but $2200 for dipping those bumpers is just crazy.
A little rust on the top? Man, just slap those suckers on and roll them! You can replace them when they start lookin like swiss cheese. |
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si fly
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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I e-mailed a company from the internet and they guessed it would cost about $2200 That seems crazy to me, but I have never looked into getting it re-dipped.
That it the reason I have been looking at just buying new bumpers. Even WW (the most expensive and most likely best quality) would cost about $1000 new.
I'm just weighing the options.
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1959 VW Beetle Sedan, DeLuxe
Second owner
| outoftheoffice wrote: |
| You can replace them when they start lookin like swiss cheese. |
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my59
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Location: connecting the dots
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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First find a plater- lots have gone away beacuse of the EPA
When you find one, price shipping the parts round trip
Get a quote from the plater
Chrome is expensive.
Be glad you're not looking at a 50's US car
If its suface rust you might try a scrub pad, lime away, and elbow grease. If the rust comes off, then rinse, dry and then wax the hell out of them.
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
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Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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si fly
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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That really clears it up for me, thanks.
Well the original bumpers are really staight with no dents or anything but on the top part of the bumpers the chrome it coming off a little and rusting. Not bad, but it is not good for sure.
Do you guys know how much it costs to get parts re-chromed?
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1959 VW Beetle Sedan, DeLuxe
Second owner
| outoftheoffice wrote: |
| You can replace them when they start lookin like swiss cheese. |
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outoftheoffice
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:07 am Post subject: |
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If you are going with stock bumpers I would try and find a good used pair of original bumpers off another bug.
True, WW does has some of the best quality reproduction parts out there (that's why they are more expensive-and worth it) and I'm sure they are good bumpers but they still aren't as good/strong/long lasting as a set of originals.
You'll want to do a search on lowering your VW (there are plenty of other threads) but a 4" beam is a beam that has had 2" cut off of each side. The end result is the front axle width being reduced a total of 4". Other common widths include 2" and 6" |
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Hotrodvw
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| Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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Mid-America won't see a dime of mine.....period.
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78x94 with IDA's....oober fun
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si fly
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| Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I can see that they are not liked very much but are they selling worse quality bumpers than jbugs? I am less woried about the money I guess that I thought. I want a good quality though when I do replace the stock bumpers.
Know what I'm saying?
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1959 VW Beetle Sedan, DeLuxe
Second owner
| outoftheoffice wrote: |
| You can replace them when they start lookin like swiss cheese. |
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hpw
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si fly
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| Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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What do you mean "4" beam is narrowed 4" oaver all width."?
WW is a little expensive for my taste and if you get what you pay for, do you think that midamerica would be like the middle of the field?
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1959 VW Beetle Sedan, DeLuxe
Second owner
| outoftheoffice wrote: |
| You can replace them when they start lookin like swiss cheese. |
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Hotrodvw
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| Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 3:25 pm Post subject: |
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4" beam is narrowed 4" oaver all width. 2.5" spindles are drop spindles. You can drop your ride 2.5" w/ them, and keep a decent ride. WW bumpers are a much better quality than what J-Bugs puts out. Remember...........you get what you pay for. 
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Eric
78x94 with IDA's....oober fun
Horsepower is an addiction........Addictions cost
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