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randywebb Samba Member

Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks! _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52352
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Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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randywebb wrote: |
morymob wrote: |
Front brngs are the least of your your problems if repacked regularly. Since '92 and on my 5th one have never had a brng problem, one a '84GL over 330K. My opinion is preload is what shortens life and now days a quality one gonna be harder to find. No cheap grease either. |
that is my question - how regularly should they be repacked?
every 10 k miles?? every 100k?
or only when the laser interferometer measurements exceed delta? |
They really don't require frequent packing unless you are doing something abusive to them, like driving off road in the desert, fording streams, etc. For typical highway driving once every 100K is probably enough. |
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randywebb Samba Member

Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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morymob wrote: |
Front brngs are the least of your your problems if repacked regularly. Since '92 and on my 5th one have never had a brng problem, one a '84GL over 330K. My opinion is preload is what shortens life and now days a quality one gonna be harder to find. No cheap grease either. |
that is my question - how regularly should they be repacked?
every 10 k miles?? every 100k?
or only when the laser interferometer measurements exceed delta? _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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Vanagator Samba Member

Joined: January 14, 2009 Posts: 230 Location: Cool lush mountains in Mexico
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Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 5:10 am Post subject: |
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So I noticed there are two peening spots on the spindle, the flat gap is for the thrust washer (of course). I peened the nut in both spots figuring I should only use the nut once anyway. |
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morymob Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2007 Posts: 4683 Location: east-tn
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Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 3:54 am Post subject: |
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Front brngs are the least of your your problems if repacked regularly. Since '92 and on my 5th one have never had a brng problem, one a '84GL over 330K. My opinion is preload is what shortens life and now days a quality one gonna be harder to find. No cheap grease either. |
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Bruce Wayne Samba Member
Joined: May 15, 2007 Posts: 1210
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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installed these in 2009,re-packed last August. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52352
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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Long time in highway service on salt free roads. Throw in dust, water, salt, etc. and the life can easily be reduced by two thirds. |
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randywebb Samba Member

Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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how long do the wheel bearings usually last on Vanagons?
fronts vs. rears? _________________ 1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
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MarkWard Samba Member

Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 18760 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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Yes only peen in the flat of the spindle. The washer is slotted so there is no twisting action against the nut. The main concern would be the nut coming loose and backing off. There should be no turning action that would cause the nut to come loose. I think. |
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Vanagator Samba Member

Joined: January 14, 2009 Posts: 230 Location: Cool lush mountains in Mexico
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 11:51 am Post subject: |
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Well I decided to install new axle nuts on the front to be safe. I cant believe that the little peened/dented nut holds that wheel on! It seems a little unnerving to me. I guess the thrust washer must help the forces of the wheel from reaching the nut. I'm assuming all I need to do is smash it (peen it) in one place?? |
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Vanagator Samba Member

Joined: January 14, 2009 Posts: 230 Location: Cool lush mountains in Mexico
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Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:19 pm Post subject: |
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Another question on replacing my rotors: On the driver side, there's the speedometer cable poking out the center of spindle.
Should I do anything with it? I mean as far as re-greasing it somehow or anything??? |
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Vanagator Samba Member

Joined: January 14, 2009 Posts: 230 Location: Cool lush mountains in Mexico
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Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:11 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for reply. I just took mine off and the axel nuts looked very slightly peened. I think I will re use them because I'm sure I can easily re-dent them into place. Unless someone knows something I dont on these.
Another option for me is to do the job and then replace the nuts when I get the parts in.
Last edited by Vanagator on Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:24 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Bntbrl Samba Member

Joined: September 04, 2012 Posts: 436 Location: Seattle, Wa
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Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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I did not use new preened nuts for the front rotor either. I carefully inserted a screwdriver in the slots to get them to unscrew. I carefully peened then back on with my handy dandy flat faced flat pick body hammer.
Autozone, oreillys and countless other flaps rent or loan out those tools to remove/install bearings and races. _________________ 1984 Vanagon Westfalia 1.9 wbx
www.DIYSeattle.com |
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Vanagator Samba Member

Joined: January 14, 2009 Posts: 230 Location: Cool lush mountains in Mexico
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Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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Reviving this as I'm changing out my rotors and pads too. I noticed the Bentley states to "Alwas replace" the front Axel Nuts (the kind that get peened). I did not order these new when i made my parts order though.
Funny thing is I've read a few different posts and no one seems to mention it, they just put it back on I guess.
Is it possible to reuse these nuts? I dont think it is and so will have to wait to finish the job for those nuts....NUTS! |
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Bruce Wayne Samba Member
Joined: May 15, 2007 Posts: 1210
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:33 am Post subject: |
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well I just used a punch and slowly worked my way around and got out the races to use in my new rotors. did the same installing them in the new rotors. cleaned up the bearings real good and re-packed with fresh grease.
this is where things went wacky. went to put the new rotors on and they would not go on all the way. tried and tried with no luck. took out the bearings to make sure I had the races pounded in all the way,looked like they were in all the way. put the bearings back in and tried again,no go. called the shop were I bought them to see if there was some trick to it. he says no,they should slide right on. while I was talking to him on the phone I grabbed one of the old rotors to compare to the new,not the same. the new rotors were for the late model vanagons! when I first picked up the parts (got pads and rotors for the kids Jetta too) they were super busy at the shop,so I just grabbed my stuff,threw it in the van and off I went.
what I needed
what I got
While I still had him on the phone he checked to see if he had a set of rotors on the shelf,luckily he did. I brought everything down to the shop and he took out my old races and installed them in the correct rotors. took about 30 minutes for him to do it as he has no secretary and answers all phone calls himself,and there were quite a few calls. the other two mechanics were busy with a BMW. the rotors that were ordered were OP Parts brand at $46 each,the ones he gave me off the shelf were Brembos at $58.50 each. he did not charge me anymore for the Brembos or for labor. he did not make excuses about getting the wrong parts,he just made things right. he also loaned me a "special tool" I need to do the rear brakes on the kids Jetta tomorrow. I didn't ask,he offered it to me when I ordered all the pads and rotors a few days before,this was before the rotor situation on the van. morale of the story:if you are a bozo like me,double check your parts before you try to put them on. |
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Terry Kay Banned

Joined: June 22, 2003 Posts: 13331
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:13 am Post subject: |
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Tossing the race into the freezer is an excellent way to get this done real simple--and with half the effort.
They'll almost fall into the hub by themselves.
You most certainly can reuse the bearings & races if your careful removing the races, wash out, clean, blow out, & repack the bearings real good.
Get some seals on the inside of the hubs and your good to go.
Don't use cheap grease.
Use some no wash out, high temp red sticky grease. _________________ T.K. |
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fairweather Samba Member

Joined: August 26, 2007 Posts: 663 Location: Aspen, CO
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:13 am Post subject: |
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You can also use a brass rod from the local hardware store. They wanted 40$ for the official drift set but the rod cost 4$. The set might be cheaper if you have time but I needed it now and it worked fine for me. |
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erdonline Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2004 Posts: 944 Location: CT
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:07 am Post subject: Rotors and bearings |
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Thanks for the info. I was thinking that since the race/bearing kits are so cheap, and I'm not positive about the condition of the old ones, it would save a step to use new races and bearings with the new rotors.
Ed in CT _________________ '85 Vanagon Westfalia
'84 Vanagon 7-passenger
'98 Mexican air-cooled Beetle |
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Christopher Schimke Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 5527 Location: PNW
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:06 am Post subject: Re: Rotors and bearings |
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erdonline wrote: |
I ...but don't have the tools to remove the old races and bearings, I thought it might be cost effective to buy the inexpensive kit from Bus Depot that includes the new bearings. Should I be able to put the new races/bearings into the new rotors without any special tools?
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Assuming that you own a hammer, the bearing race driver kit should be able to be rented for very little money at one of your local parts stores or you can buy one for about $30.00. A brass drift can be purchased for around $10-20.
An alternative to either of the above is to hit the pawn shops. For some reason pawn shops tend to have a good selection of large sockets that are usually very inexpensive. Choose one the is ever so slightly smaller than both of the bearing races (one large, one smaller). Use them just like you would a bearing driver. Who knows, you may end up finding a brass drift and/or a proper bearing driver there too.
Whatever bearing driver you choose, DO NOT EVER strike the bearing races on the surface where the bearings ride...EVER! Brass drifts and aluminum bearing drivers are made from the materials that they are just in case you slip, not so that you can blatantly use them to strike the bearing surfaces.
Oh, and if you end up purchasing a cheap brass drift, make sure that you wear eye protection when using it. Although it is a good idea anyway, the cheaper brass drifts tend to chip off (as perrib mentioned) instead of compressing/curling like the better quality ones do. _________________ "Sometimes you have to build a box to think outside of." - Bruce (not Springsteen)
*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW, Porsche and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
T3Technique.com or contact me at [email protected] |
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riceye Samba Member

Joined: March 09, 2006 Posts: 1701 Location: Caledonia, WI
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:33 am Post subject: Re: Rotors and bearings |
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erdonline wrote: |
Should I be able to put the new races/bearings into the new rotors without any special tools? |
If you are confident the bearings and races in the current rotors are in good shape, you really don't need any"special" tools to remove and reinstall the races. A stout hammer and a 10" drift punch are all that are needed. If you want to use brass, a brass drift punch would be an investment that would cost considerably less than new bearings and races.
Technique for race removal and reinstallation is simple, but important. You want to work your way around the races with the punch and hammer, being sure to impact upon the outer edges where the tapered bearings don't contact. Keep working the race (in or out) a little at a time, making sure not to let it get cocked in the bore. You can tell when the race is driven home in the bore by the tone of the impact. The sound will change from a "thud" to a "ring" when it has bottomed out. And keep the outer races and cones mated together when transferring from one rotor to another.
Other suitable race driver resources are old hammer handles cut down to fit, scrap Ipe' lumber, or a length of iron pipe with a threaded coupler and a brass plug screwed into the end.
Another trick to facilitate easier installation is to put the races in a deep freeze for an hour or two, and pull them out one at a time immediately prior to reinsertion. Dry ice would probably work equally well to shrink the metal.
Good luck! _________________ '87 Westy Weekender - daily driver on salt-free roads
There's gonna be some changes made.
“I find that things usually go well right up until the moment they don't.” - Ahwahnee
"Quality isn't method. It's the goal toward which the method is aimed." - Socrates, later quoted by R.M. Pirsig |
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