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HOW TO: Re-Bushing Kadron Throttle Bodies
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Backtotheeighties
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2023 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Re-Bushing Kadron Throttle Bodies Reply with quote

I am learning loads from here.
I've pulled out the bushing by hand like a cork out a bottle.
Screwing in a tap (from basic tap/ die set) 8mm or something grips the bush enough. As not everyone has a drill press or is lucky to get it all square.
Yes an old post, but I still read it and enjoyed it....
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2019 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Re-Bushing Kadron Throttle Bodies Reply with quote

Helpful thread and good sticky, but all the OP pic links are down because photbucket
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re this Post: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:40 am Post subject: HOW TO: Re-Bushing Kadron Throttle Bodies

Not trying to hijack/resurrect an old thread but I wondered if when filling the hole in the carb - do you leave the wire in the hole or just use it to poke JB into the hole?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


57baja Wrote:
" If I'm going to be modifying the carb for vacuum advance, I cut a small piece of .0403" aluminum wire, coat it in JB weld, and fill the little hole in the throttle body as shown. Don't fill the wrong hole or your throttle body will be instant junk! This creates the proper vacuum signal for the VW distributors when adding the port for the advance on the case of the carb."


Fascinating information. Thanks for passing on the knowledge you have learned! I Am Very Grateful.
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Farfromstock
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also I'm running an Msd on my stock sp motor. Can Msd be ran with Kadrons since I hear people say you need vaccum advance? I ran across a 070 dissy yesterday in the parts I bought I believe it's a dvda is this correct? Can it be used with the Kadrons after I clean and inspect it. Thanks!
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Farfromstock
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm about to do my 3rd set but this will be my first at redoing the bushings myself. I want to try the dent puller method on the bushings. I like how aj's bushings felt but havent tryed Jeff's yet. I'm at a stopping point cause the throttle plate screws where froze so I carefully drilled them but lots track of my easy out? Can bushing be bought from eBay?
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I know this is an old question, but the bushings referenced above are junk. If you use those the fuel washes the impregnated oil out.


Oillite bushings are a powdered bronze, they absorb oil when heated so they are fine for your cheap electric motors or vacuum cleaner, but wrong for exposure to fuel like Mark said they will leak like a sieve after the oil is flushed out.
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i_am_cool_fred
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually saw in a couple other threads people saying they were junk on smaller carbs so I bought bushings through kaddis shack. Haven't put them in yet, to busy building the car right now lol.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i_am_cool_fred wrote:
to those who are running them, do these mcmaster bushings work good??


I know this is an old question, but the bushings referenced above are junk. If you use those the fuel washes the impregnated oil out. Use the 932 bronze ones. I buy them at 5/16 ID and 7/16 OD and use that size for most bushing work except for special cases. I turn down the OD to fit the hole I need to put them in. Most of the time they need to be about 0.375-0.380 for bodies that need to be machined out, like ICT, KADRON, PDSIT, etc... and for Stock 34PICT carbs, they need to be closer to 0.385 or 0.395 on models that had a positioner lever. I make them a press fit, but if you need to use loctite due to errors, use a retaining compound.. there are several versions of it.

The replacement bushings are garlock I think, the ones referenced, and they wear quick in my experience. Custom bushings made from the 932 bronze are the way to go.
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Farfromstock
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cannt the bushings just be tapped and insert the tap into a dent puller and pulled out? So you can just drop in the new bushings. And instead of ib weld I recommend the green loctite gene berg sells. Gb-9020c
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donbarnes
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will that bushing size work on a Solex 34-Pict also, or is that a different size?
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does 57Baja Buy complete Kadron (low mileage) kits from people changing to EFI?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just wanted to bring this closer to the top
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i_am_cool_fred
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

to those who are running them, do these mcmaster bushings work good??
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is probably a better way to go about it.... Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

simpsoncan2 wrote:
I just realized that link is incomplete. Search Oilite in the top left search bar. Then follow the options for sleeve bearings and scroll down th page and select the sizes: ID 8mm, Length 10mm, and then it will pull up the bearing (and it should be OD 10mm also). P/N 6679K12


Here is the product number: 6679K12
Just put it in the search bar and it will take you directly to the page. Thanks for the legwork Simpsoncan2.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just realized that link is incomplete. Search Oilite in the top left search bar. Then follow the options for sleeve bearings and scroll down th page and select the sizes: ID 8mm, Length 10mm, and then it will pull up the bearing (and it should be OD 10mm also). P/N 6679K12
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a link to some:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeve-bearings/=d6rnst

Couple questions:

I just want to confirm that you do not ream the ID of the installed/finished bushing, right? What kind of rotational drag/resistance do you have on the shaft and bushing? Is there any measurable play in shaft? What made you select these bushings?

I'm planning on doing this on a original 30 pict 3 carb and believe the bushing sizes are identical (unconfirmed).
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:47 am    Post subject: Re: Bushing source Reply with quote

VanderBus wrote:
Can you post where you bought those bushings from?


They are made by INA and any bearing dealer should have them. I bought mine for 2 bucks a piece.
Here is the part #:
pap0810p14
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

57baja wrote:
Technical - Schmechnical. Laughing .


I'm with you 57Baja! We as machinists are a fussy bunch by nature it seems. We are sort of forced into that mold by picky inspection departments and ultimately picky customers. Sometimes machinists are more enamored with the process than the end result. But in the end the customer really doesn't care most of the time how you remove the material as long as it meets their specs and provides expected results.
I admire your attitude. You provided proprietorial information and left yourself open to criticism and take it all as constructive. Bravo well done! Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
The tool room still support the CNCs you have, don't they? Someone still has to make your tools for the CNCs. Very Happy


All tooling/fixturing is produced on the CNC's and has been for about 15 years...... About the same amount of time it's been since I used a boring head....... Sadly, the craftsman side of machining is slowly dieing......... Or being outsourced.........
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