Need Help - Rear Hood Latch problem

[jeffrey8164]

One thing about the rear latch is that it is fail safe. Meaning that if the cable breaks the springs of the latch will snap it to an open position. Not so for the front.
If you leave it open, the decklid will stay down but is prone to bounce a bit when going over speed bumps or bumps in the road.
I replaced mine by myself and while somewhat of a pain, I found the most difficult part was getting the latch pin adjusted just right. Too tight and it takes excessive force to pop and too loose and it bounces when going over bumps etc.
_________________
Volkswagen!
Turning owners into mechanics since 1938.

“Let he that is without oil throw the first rod”
(Compression 8.7:1)

[kingkarmann]

[paul_round]

bringing this post back from the dead. I've had a similar issue, in that I have to use both hands to pull the knob, which sometimes will release the engine lid latch, upon investigation it looks like the nylon sheath has maybe got hot and become distorted, I though about using copper microbore pipe, 8 or 10mm, any thoughts on this?
On another note, has anyone ever tried replacing the cable mechanism with an electric actuator of some sort?

[c21darrel]

correct. It give you the view Echeban shows on his 4/8/2010 post
_________________
GhiaBuild
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=481184
1967 DC build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=693583&highlight=67+dc
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[varagon]

[c21darrel]

"""So my question is; how to you get the tube through the quarter panel area when everything is put together? Is it trial and error with a guide wire"""

You will need to remove the rear qtr panel in back and then you can see pretty much everything.[/quote]
_________________
GhiaBuild
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=481184
1967 DC build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=693583&highlight=67+dc
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[steveoutlaw]

I'm going to resurrect this thread because I'm stuck needing to do the same thing. So my question is; how to you get the tube through the quarter panel area when everything is put together? Is it trial and error with a guide wire?

[Ghiaddict]

Glad you got it done!

First time Ghia repairs can be difficult, but you'll
learn from that experience for the next time.

Old VW Motto:

"If it was easy, everybody would be doing it."


_________________
****************************

Karmann Ghia & Beetle parts available.
Convertible tops installed.

[hudsonce]

Finally got this installed. Ridiculously hard, just like everything else on this car. Had a friend help, and can't imagine anyone doing this alone. Definitely easier to start from the back seat area and PULL TO the engine bay with a guide wire. Also important to remove the plastic collar on the end of the tubing since it's a very tight fit.

[Ghiaddict]

Are you installing the tubing from the front to the back?
Once it becomes visible inside the the L/R quarter panel,
the rest of the install is easier. Then you can push a wire
through the rear grommet, attach the tube and pull it through
to the engine bay.
BTW if your Ghia is 1967-1974, nothing is actually routed
under the rear seat.
_________________
****************************

Karmann Ghia & Beetle parts available.
Convertible tops installed.

[hudsonce]

Still trying to install this. I now understand HOW it goes together (thank you Samba and KGPR,) but I can NOT get the tubing through the engine compartment and under the back seat. I did have a line through this tunnel, but broke it trying to pull the tubing through. Any tricks to make this easier?

[Ghiaddict]

That was also the result when I first purchased
plastic tubing from Ace Hardware. But in their PVC section
of the store they have a much stronger tubing that works excellent.
They will cut a length for you from a large roll of the stuff.

Nothing from their standard tubing assortment is strong
enough to do the job.
_________________
****************************

Karmann Ghia & Beetle parts available.
Convertible tops installed.

[61 BUS]

The plastic tubing I bought from Ace Hardware didn't work well for me at all. The original factory tubing was much stiffer and didn't flex when opening the hood or rear deck lid. The tubing I got from Ace was a lot softer and would flex enough that the latch wouldn't disengage when I pulled the release lever. What I ended up doing was using 3/16" aluminum tubing instead of plastic, and running the cable inside of that. This works perfectly and doesn't flex. I've done this with my front latch and am planning on doing the same with the rear latch.
_________________
61 Bus, 2001 Eurovan GLS, 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth, 47 Plymouth Business Coupe, 58 BMW Isetta 300

[NOVA Airhead]

The enlarged end fits into the latch.

The black tube goes in the passenger compartment where the knob come throug the bulkhead.

VW changed the anchoring over the years. Not sure what is correct for your car. Mine has shhet metal tabs that you crimp over the plastic cover.

There should be a barrel nut to secure/adjust the cable at the latch.

The key on this is to keep the cable from flexing. If it flexes you will not be able to pull the cable enough and you will not be able to get the engine lid open.

When you are finished with the install make sure you have a back up plan to get the engine lid open. There are several points where something can go wrong - cable flex, loose barrel nut, improperly adjusted latch pin. Any one of these can result in you not being able to open the engine lid.

Without a back up, opening the lid will be very difficult.
_________________
Ghia Owner Emeritus

[Ghiaddict]

The anchoring sleeve goes up front, behind the pull knob.
See the first pic posted by echeban in this thread.
The short piece of larger diameter nylon sheath gets placed
inside the short metal tube of the decklid latch to keep the
smaller (long) sheath centered in place. Hope that helps.
_________________
****************************

Karmann Ghia & Beetle parts available.
Convertible tops installed.

[hudsonce]

I may be missing the obvious, but.... I want to install new decklid release cable and plastic sheath (was not used after po replaced rear clip of car.) I wonder if plastic sheath goes all the way through the area under the rear seat? If so, does the enlarged part of the sheath (flange) go closer to the pull knob in the back seat or the release clamp in the engine compartment (like I have it threaded here? or flip it around and thread it the other way?) Finally, where does the small black rear hood cable tube anchoring sleeve go? and how does it work? I assume any fateners to bolt the clamp to the body of the car will work; and that wire goes in back of clamp at spring/pulley with a set screw. Is that right? KGPR sent me all the parts I THINK I need, but serious NOOB still needs step by step if anyone can help. Also have pics of exactly how the PO left if for me.

[Altema]

[Marlonius]

My engine isn't in the car right now, so I have good access in any case. Good advice though...I'd suggest to anyone that they remove some tin before doing a change with the engine in the vehicle.

[PJE1]

You can open the lid, it requires that you drill a hole from under the car where the bottom of the latch would be and with a screwdriver trip the latch. Don't ask how I know.
Pete '70 ghia

[NOVA Airhead]

When you replace this be sure to have a back-up plan for getting the deck lid open without the cable! Its tricky to get the adjustment right and/or have the tube not flex.

The result can be a closed engine lid with no way to open it.
_________________
Ghia Owner Emeritus