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kingodirtp3
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i made some phone calls to a few VW engine builders.
one told me to use 5.4 rods, one said i could use my stock piston,
another said i could use my stock rods, and some have said i can use 5.5
rods.
if i use b pistons and stock rods the engien will only be a thousandth or so wider than stock.
one builder told me i needed to lower my CR from 8.3 tp 7.3. he was suprised i'm not pinging now
also i was told by most to stay with the e100 cam since its in a bus, while a coupel said i could go up to a e110 without loosing any bottom end.
so i'm definately confused. luckily i have one more place left to call and i have a month or 2 before i have to decide what parts.
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Billyisgr8
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost Alive wrote:
There is a fellow on this forum who has a 2180 SP I believe with a turbo on it and he drag races it. That engine see's well over 9k RPM's and he runs 11's with it (if I recall correctly).
I've used stock cams on small displacement SP's before and they work wonderfully for all around power and MPG but a E100 will give you much more power band and torque.


Close but its a 2110cc 82 x 90.5 and I shift at 6500 rpm not 9000rpm. My limiter is set at 6800 rpm. It has a cam thats similar to an engle 120. running 15 pounds boost in the video below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLgkLtT-W14&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Engine is forsale right now too. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1059989

In my 1600 singleport I had a engle 110 cam with stock size valves and ported heads. That engine made power right to 6000 rpm and I would shift at 6200 rpm.

OK again for the guys who are comparing ported dual ports, to a stock non touched singleport head. If you compare a set of singleport heads with the same amount of porting as a dual port head, and both use 35 x 32 valves there will be little hp difference between the two, you would never feel the difference using your seat of the pants method. Everyone compares stock singleport heads, to ported dual port. Of coarse there will be a difference. My ported singleport head with 35 x 32 valves in a 1600 pulls way harder than a stock dual port head does. People have to stop comparing apples to pinaples. In my turbo 2110 singleport there is absolutely no difference in power between a dual port and the singleport under boost. JFYI a singleport head has more meat to port into on the roof of the port compared to the dual port.

Kevin
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kingodirtp3
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont plan to or want to rev my engien past 5k, so i dont need to spend another 800-100 on heads and carbs.
i know with dp heads i could get more power, but if its all top end power
that comes on after 4500rpm then i dont need it., not in my bus at least.
if i get a bug again then oh yea i'll go to dp heads with big carbs.
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a 1600SP with an E100, extractor and Kadrons.

Got a set of dual-port GO1 heads for $65 ea. brand new.
Did a manifold match, mild port job, 3-angle VJ and back-cut intakes.

The difference is night and day.
The Single-port had a decent, stock-like low end, and some mid, but NO top end at all.
The _Very Same_ motor with nothing else but a set of mildly worked over cheap heads had a big fat midrange, and was coming on pretty hard up top (for a small motor).

My opinion is that horsepower is in the heads.
Making something that chuggs around is OK,

But let's not kid ourselves here....

Single ports run out of breath, and give you a big disappointing fall-off right when you start revving wanting to make power.
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kingodirtp3
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 12:22 am    Post subject: 1776sp to 2007sp Reply with quote

so here's what i have now:
10w-30 royal purple
145, 60 on weber icts
412 trans stock 68 bug
fuel presure to 3-5
w100,
dual ICTs with vacuum to distributor,
SVDA distibutor,
8.3-1 CR,
1.25 rockers,
HD rocker shafts,
chro-mo pushrods,
single HD springs,
opened up exhaust port, intake valve cut back, 3 angle valve job,
1 3/8" header w/ cherrybomb oval turbo muffler custom routing,
breather box,
full flow filter,
10mm studs w/ case savers,
26mm stock oil pump,
stock doghouse cooler,
all tin, flaps and thermostat too,
stock 4 dowel crank non-cw,
everything balanced
what i want to do is put in a 78 C/W crank
i know i need 90.5b pistons, rods, pushrods, pushrod tubes, gasket set, bearings, and cylinder shims.
what i'm not sure about is 5.4 or 5.5 rods, H or I beam?
should i go up to a 110 cam?
should i keep my CR at 8.3?
i will be getting a new AS41 case to build this from thats clearance, opened up for 90.5, full flowed and welded behind #3.
i can get new big valve dp heads based on stock casting for 150ea plus the dp manifolds for my ICTs, total of around 400.
so considerign the work i had done to my sp heads and the fact that this
is going in a 67 bus with straight axle, should i keep my heads or switch
to dp? my current set up is lackign in torque on hills and runs out of breath around 4500-5000.
i wont be changing the carbs or exhaust.
so please let me know what the single port experts think!
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Rome
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lowbay, if you do nothing else to your case (like opening up for 88mm cylinders) then have a set of case savers installed if there are none there now. Especially valid for an original 1500 case that starts with the letter "H" for the case number under the generator mounting surface.

You can do several mod's to the SP heads to get more power out of them; follow the porting section in the book "How to hotrod your VW engine" (Bill Fisher).

I've built 3 SP engines; each with Engle 100 cam and KAdrons (1500, 1600; 1776). Only the 1776 has a CW forged crank, Berg HD pushrods and solid rocker shafts. This engine is in my '77 Beetle at moment (3.88 final drive ratio) but at 4000rpm it's doing about 75mph and has alot more in it. The distrib. is the high-quality 009 sold by Aircooled.net. Carb linkage is the Scat one; and the engine has no hesitation/flat spots. Joy to drive for what it is.
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Luis ''Diablo'' Gutierrez
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

in my case i have a 1776SP with a little port and polish on the
heads
1.25 rockers
eagle 110
009
and a bad ass tranny with 1st race, 2&3rd short 4 stock
single dell 40

its pulls really hard but runs out of steam at 5000rpm ;-{
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Dangermouse
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had this done recently and the balancing man stressed the importance of dowelling the pressure plate to prevent it moving about. I hadn't heard this before.

In my case it's a 6V flywheel with 200m ringear, lightened by 0.75kg and now dowelled to hold the pressure plate firmly in place and in just one orientation and the whole lot balanced from crank to gland nut...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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josh
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

COBussmuggler wrote:


To the original poster, I'd recommend bringing the flywheel, pressure plate and crankshaft pulley to the machine shop that does your balancing. It's far better to have the entire unit balanced as a whole. I would also recommend that the machinist peen the perimeter of the pressure plate once he finds the best position for the plate. I've yet to see a VW pressure plate, Kennedy or otherwise, that doesn't "float" within the seat that it is mounted in. Mount it as central as you can, torque it up and then peen the perimeter in a few spots so that when the PP is removed and reinstalled with the disk, it goes back on the exact way it came off. It should almost be a press fit.

Good Luck!


X2. I've had engines balanced where the crankshaft didn't need to be touched but it took some serious grinding/drilling to get the flywheel, pressure plate and pulley balanced.

If you have the crankshaft balanced and the rest of the rotating mass is out of balance you've basically just wasted your money because once all of the parts are bolted together nothing is really balanced.
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rubyparts
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 12:00 pm    Post subject: 1776 SP Reply with quote

I have planed for building the 1776 single port for a long time, because i have a 1600 SP engine with dual oil relief case. they always told me in our club what is this engine why not dual port ..... i was the joke when they saw my beetle "here is the 1200cc, single port hhh" .

i am 1600 SP with stock parts, running weber 34 ict ,scat 1.25 with stock 1300 cam, 009 bosh distribute with compufire module and 35k coil, with Bugpack hide out exhaust.

i have races many 1600 DP with all the parts that i listed instead of the w110 that the have. they never passed me even when have the 17" wheels with wide tires.


So today i am planing to order some parts for my engine and i want the advise from you guy`s, here is all the parts that i will use and what i want

to order:

single relief case "my original case STD bearing" 8mm head stud
counterweight crank forged "have it"
stock rods
stock or hp cam???
1.25 scat rocker arms
male 90.5/69 used 1500mile with new rings "have it"
SP heads stock valve "my 1600 need to bore them" and change valve guide. ????
weber 34ict kit "have it"
hide out exhaust
light weight 200mm flywheel
stock oil pump "because of the single relief case" but i am planing to install external oil cooler so stock pump is i good choice or take a bigger ?????
oil sump
009 distribute "have it"

But the most important thing to build a 1776 Single Ports!!!!
Any ideas and links can help.
Thank`s
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My first engine build was a 1600, C/W crank, 100 cam, P/P single port heads fly cut .100 anda single 36mm D'ell carb out a 1 3/8 header. 90mph was a breeze in my Oval. Great little motor.

Congrats LUNATIK. and yes if you just polished the heads they will run out of steam at 4-4500. But you still got a great motor. Personally I don't think you'll see a difference with the 019 from your 009 dist. Keep your header size small....

brad
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LUNATIK
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a little video on how this 1500cc perform, that day the highway was empty and decided to see what the engine can handle. I still working around some minor issues, like finding a 019 dizzy, and upgrading the exhaust to a merge header. The heads are only polished not ported.

The video is on it side, this is the first time I film using my phone camera... but it give you an idea.
Regards,


Link

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Almost Alive
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You two need to ditch the 009's and get 019's.
As for the 1749 running out of steam.... I've never had that problem. I've also never had a big heavy bay window either other than a DC that wasn't running.
I'd imagine if you are "running out of steam" it is caused by improper set up, stock ports or your trans isn't geared to go any faster. The 74' Beetle I have tops out at 83mph no matter the sized engine I toss in it due to the gearing. I don't like running stock sized head ports on a 1600 let alone a mild stroker.
When my 67' had a bone stock engine in it, I drove it 90mph+ many times. With the ported heads well.... 90mph+ was not even a struggle but then again its about a thousand pounds lighter than your bay.
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Juice C
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished a 1749 singleport (76x85.5) for my bay. I used an Engle 100 and a 009 dist. and a set of Weber 34s. Its perfect for pushing the bus around but it does run out of steam on the hyway. I might switch to dual ports and see what that does.
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LUNATIK
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pic after a week of use and abuse...

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LUNATIK
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update... Engine installed last week... use a 009 dizzy for now, the engine pulls good, probably too much... it is good for the stop and go traffic but really takes a lot of time to get used to the torque of the car. Few issues, it runs out of breath at 4000 to 4500 RPM, and hesitate while on constant speed without load. Other than that, the engine run strong. I have to continue working on the carbs and other things, but I really like it.

Regards,
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dangermouse wrote:
Dangermouse wrote:
Sounds pretty similar to what I'm trying to build. A stock 1600sp with a W100 cam. In my case I'm going for the dual Weber 34 ICT kit from CB. I'll be using a 200mm 6V flywheel, new Mahle 1600 P&Bs, new Mahle lifters, full flow filtering, stock 69mm crank and rotating assembly balanced from gland nut to pulley nut.


Quoting myself here but can anybody suggest what would be an appropriate distributor for a setup like this?


I use a 009 with an Ignitor module and a blue coil set to 10 initial advance...But I'm at 6000'. Subtract 5 degrees for sea level.
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost Alive wrote:
COBussmuggler wrote:
I have a similar setup to what you want to run. SP 1600 with Kadrons. I run heater boxes and a stock peashooter. I chose a stock cam to go with mine since it's in a 59 Bus. It's a terrific running motor with a very nice powerband. It pulls harder and longer than a stock motor but I don't worry about over-reving it with those tiny little ports. I figure it acts as a governor.

Personally, I'd recommend running a stock cam, especially if you are after torque. Anything else is going to move the powerband up. If you're not diggin' it, you can always use ratio rockers to pop the valves open a bit more.

I'm all for counterweighted cranks and ported heads, but I think you're wasting your money porting single ports and putting a CW crank in a SP motor. It's just not going to see the RPM's that make it a worthwhile investment.


Sorry guy but you couldn't be more wrong. My 1641 has a totally bone stock bottom end and I got it to produce just under 80hp at the flywheel.... that's quite a bump from stock.
Using the ports as a governor is silly. You can certainly over rev your stock engine with them... especially with your dual carbs.
Your bus came stock with a governor on the carb for that reason.
A counter weighted crank not only allows you to rev past 4500rpm's safely but it elongates the bearing and case life.
I think you need to do some serious reading before you give advise on something that you apparently know nothing about. Not trying to be rude but there is no other way of saying it.
Jake Raby build many 2100cc+ single ports successfully producing well over 100hp.
There is a fellow on this forum who has a 2180 SP I believe with a turbo on it and he drag races it. That engine see's well over 9k RPM's and he runs 11's with it (if I recall correctly).
I've used stock cams on small displacement SP's before and they work wonderfully for all around power and MPG but a E100 will give you much more power band and torque.


I don't need to get into a pissing match about this. I'd suggest that your a bit off-base by saying that this is something that I know nothing about. I'm telling him my experience with a motor which is near identical to what he intends to build. From what I can tell from his initial post, he's using a stock crank, 1600 pistons and stock heads. He can cam it how he want's.
If you want a reliable motor your wife can drive, you can't beat a stock cam, especially for the small displacement and stock heads.

My motor pulls until it runs out of steam because of the small ports, not because of valve float. The small ports limit the amount of air coming into the motor, much like a governor, when it's at full steam. I'm not suggesting that the motor can't be over-revved. Some monkeys can break a bowling ball. Full pedal and a missed shift can grenade any motor.

I'm glad that your motor makes 80 hp how you built it. I'm curious as to why you wouldn't take your own advice about counterweighted cranks and also choosing to run slip-in big bores? I've always considered those a cheap way to run hotter and decrease engine life.

I'm quite thankful that we have experts like you to guide us newbies through, though this newbie has put probably a quarter million miles on his own ACVW's (100K on one bus alone) with his own motors since his first Bus in '87.

To the original poster, I'd recommend bringing the flywheel, pressure plate and crankshaft pulley to the machine shop that does your balancing. It's far better to have the entire unit balanced as a whole. I would also recommend that the machinist peen the perimeter of the pressure plate once he finds the best position for the plate. I've yet to see a VW pressure plate, Kennedy or otherwise, that doesn't "float" within the seat that it is mounted in. Mount it as central as you can, torque it up and then peen the perimeter in a few spots so that when the PP is removed and reinstalled with the disk, it goes back on the exact way it came off. It should almost be a press fit.

Good Luck!
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kingodirtp3
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for beating hondas and entering freeway you should at least go up to 1776, since its a ghia you can get away with 1914.
the best would be a 1955, maybe a 2007. if you have to buy a crank
anyway you might as well get a 78 stroker.
with one of those set ups hondas and the freeway wouldnt be a problem.
the 1600 will still struggle some, though the way you are building your's
it'll struggle alot less than stock.
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Almost Alive
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BROTHERS VW MACHINE!
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