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Rear Main Seal
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geo_tonz
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well hopefully he has figured it out in the 3 years since this post was last active!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 4:03 pm    Post subject: 1.9 L wbx Reply with quote

It looks like there may be some damage to the case - maybe or maybe not.

Unless you have a bunch of experience on water boxers, Open it up to see for curiosity sake. I have not found anybody who is capable of line boring a 1.9 Case, and machining the crank.

options:

1. buy an engine from somebody like the bus depot: http://.busdepot.com
2. buy an engine from Westy in Denver - not cheap but good.
3. spend the 10 grand for a Subaru 2.5 installed
4. I have my 1.9 L wbx down to about 1,000 prices. all kinds of problems - sealers, adhesives, bearing sizes, heads $500.00 each.
5. Contact Quality German motors - provider of diesels, 1.9 L diesel - not cheap either. about $2700 complete, 800 adapter kit. other costs to find a mechanic who can work on a vw diesel. [email protected].

Good luck
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
I am so in awe of your massive training and experience that I'll wear your disdain proudly.


Can I have some disdain too? I agree with 10ยข on each of those points of contention.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standing on the clutch all the time seems like a pretty good theory, insofar as that may overheat and deplete the film separating the endplay shims, which would begin to spin faster against the bearing thrust shoulder and then chronically overheat the thrust surface, weakening it over time. It would have to be chronic and severe abuse to produce that result, but people are very good at abusing vehicles so that's not out of the realm of possibilities. You would think the TOB would wear out first and make a hell of a whine, or the bearing knocking would get their attention, but some people just turn the radio up louder instead of calling their mechanic.

The thing that normally goes wrong with this bearing type is due to poor fitting when the engine was built, especially if it got a careless align-bore job. It's the "crush" of the case saddles gripping the bearing that really holds it in place; the dowel pin is mainly an alignment aid so the oiling holes line up, and the thrust shoulders offer some initial support but if there is insufficient grip of the bearing by the saddles as well as not enough fit interference between the thrust shoulders, then the thrust force causes a bit of material compression, which allows minute axial movement to begin. Once the bearing can move axially, however minutely, it will bit by bit pound out the thrust shoulders and case saddle sidewalls, increasing the amount of movement, and the thing snowballs until the bearing is hammering in and out within the case. By that time the bearing is probably shifting circumferentially as well, until the dowel is what is limiting that instead of the saddle grip. Once axial movement is sufficient, if left unremedied it may just be a matter of time 'til the thrust shoulder breaks off like in these pics, although in my experience it's rare to see them get that far. Usually the deep knocking noise it produces alerts the owner to the fact that there is a real problem before it gets that far.

The later wbx bearings are a great improvement on the original design. The bearings are located by tangs and gripped by the saddles as any bearing, but the thrust control is separated from the journal bearing and thrust loads are borne by two heavy tab-located thrust shims and adjusted and cushioned with the usual pack of three rotating shims.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at this photo, there is what looks like preexisting damage to the crank, just to the left of top center. I would guess that the crank was dropped at some point prior to installation and the damage not corrected. It actually looks more like damage from the use of a BFH, but I don't know why anyone would have used a BFH on the crank.

cannonfodder4j wrote:
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cannonfodder4j
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i really doubt that you did that damage, in any case youll need a new engine or get this one rebuilt, since the bearing is shot. ive decided to embark on a subaru swap. im just gathering the funds now!
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Escorial Syncro
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought it that way, just recently. And your assessment makes sense in my case. The clutch was bad and the van had thick homemade floor mats that made it impossible to fully depress the clutch. So the previous owner could have been a clutch rider. But from the way mine came apart, I fear I trashed the bearing removing the seal. Embarassed
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cannonfodder4j
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Escorial Syncro wrote:
Shocked Ok, back to the OP's issue. What causes the rear main bearing to come apart like that? Over heating, lack of oil, sloppy forceful rear main seal removal? Forgive my silly question, but I've never split a WBX lower end, so I'm not sure I'm understanding what causes this. I have a motor sitting here in my garage with a rear bearing that looks like this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Is it possible that I or whoever removed the rear main seal damaged the bearing by levering against it? This motor had a significant oil leak coming from the rear main seal area prior to removal. Can this motor be run this way? (I assume not) Thanks for the education, just trying to learn something here. Joel



I took my photo to a VW vanagon specialist and he said although he had never seen a bearing split the full way around, he says that this comes from excessively riding the clutch which causes the bearing heat up. Did you buy the van with the leak? or did it occur while you had it?
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
It's not the hammer, it's the hand holding it.


he he he, that is a good one Smile
Same goes for any tool!

Have a good one Chris.
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Escorial Syncro
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Ok, back to the OP's issue. What causes the rear main bearing to come apart like that? Over heating, lack of oil, sloppy forceful rear main seal removal? Forgive my silly question, but I've never split a WBX lower end, so I'm not sure I'm understanding what causes this. I have a motor sitting here in my garage with a rear bearing that looks like this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Is it possible that I or whoever removed the rear main seal damaged the bearing by levering against it? This motor had a significant oil leak coming from the rear main seal area prior to removal. Can this motor be run this way? (I assume not) Thanks for the education, just trying to learn something here. Joel
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am so in awe of your massive training and experience that I'll wear your disdain proudly.
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joemac
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been around the block a few times.
I started fixing VWs in 1968. I was a factory trained tech who has built thousands of engines. You can balance a nickel on the crankcase of one of my engines while it idles
My engines last for years and accrue hundreds of thousands of trouble-free miles.
My instructors were the best of the best, many of them trained in Wolfsburg and Weissach.

I won't bother entering into a pissing match with you, or anyone else. I'm getting close to 60 years old, been around long enough to know it's not worth it.

You, on the other hand, don't know what you're talking about.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, you're splittin' that baby.



On another note, I just have to straighten this stuff out:
joemac wrote:
Check that stupid cam plug for leakage. I say stupid because there was nothing wrong with the steel plug that was used for decades.


The wbx used the same reliable steel cam plug used in Type1 engines as far back as I can remember, which is pretty far. It ain't a mexi-beetle. Were you on the right forum?

Quote:
Another point: the farther out the seal is placed in the crankcase, the tighter it seals against the bell of the flywheel hub. Setting the seal farther into the case allows for leakage even if a perfectly good flywheel is used.


Sealing face of the wbx FW hub is a simple cylinder until well past the height where the seal lip could conceivably make contact; you couldn't make the seal lip ride on the flared part of the hub if you put it backward. But it sure would be funny if you tried!

Quote:
There is so much wrong with that video, I don't know where to start.
You don't drive a needle pilot bearing in with a hammer. Nor do you drive a flywheel seal in with a hammer. Any knowledgeable technician owns and uses bushing/bearing installers.


I do. The guys who taught me did. Bob Donalds did. He made his living building top-notch engines for decades. I make my living doing so now, and have for many years of my life. It's not the hammer, it's the hand holding it. I have perfectly nice seal installers, I get better results faster by using my eyes and hands instead.

I think most who are aware of us would call Bob and me knowledgeable technicians. The guys who taught me most definitely were. They would get a good chuckle at this.

Quote:
Any time you measure and adjust something that deals with flowing lubricant, you must compensate by simulating the conditions of operation. When rebuilding transmissions, you simulate running conditions when adjusting the gear package by actually pouring gear oil over the gears while cranking the mainshaft, which SIMULATES RUNNING CONDITIONS. Likewise, you want the shims/ thrust coated with engine oil to SIMULATE RUNNING CONDITIONS.


I don't build transmissions so I won't comment on the techniques involved. Within engines, the clearances we establish are the space we leave for the lubricant to fill. Do I subtract a thou from my dry measured bearing clearances because I have to leave room for the oil? No, the clearance is the room for the oil. Likewise the endplay shims; endplay must be measured with the shims dry, or you will end up with .004" while running when actual running endplay should be about 15 tenths. If it was more the thrust bearing would get hammered in a hurry.

Quote:
I guarantee that after that engine has developed oil pressure, the crankshaft end play will have diminished by .0015", due to the coating of oil that forms between the shims/thrust.


No, it'll go down by about .0025", and that is the goal, exactly.


Quote:
And to me, it is NOT perfectly acceptable to call the front main seal by anything other than its correct name.


I see. We'll all keep that in mind.
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cannonfodder4j
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok everyone i finally had time to get to that seal change after forever and after removing the shims found that the bearing had split the whole way around . it looks like that subaru swap is gonna come sooenr than expected!

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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good golly, this left-handed metric adjustable wrench was installed on the right side--blasphemy!!!

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iltis74
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So is the guy in the jump seat looking out back through the windshield? I mean, the factory did orient him that way. Man this is funner than I thought. In the end of course you can call it whatever you want, don't bother me, I know what it is.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Have you ever heard the crank seal on a transverse engine called the left main seal or right main seal.


On a front-engined vehicle is the left main seal on the driver's or passenger's side?


Good question. Maybe we should just identify it as the driver's side seal or the passenger's side seal, this might create a problem for the bloody Brits though.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Have you ever heard the crank seal on a transverse engine called the left main seal or right main seal.


On a front-engined vehicle is the left main seal on the driver's or passenger's side?
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sanchius Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 9:42 am    Post subject: Re: Rear Main Seal Reply with quote

cannonfodder4j wrote:
Hey everyone! i recently bought a 1985 VW Vanagon which had a pretty bad oil leak. I researched the leak and found that it was a busted rear main seal. I spent the last two days in the shop pulling the transmission and accessing the seal. It was busted so i replaced it. The problem is that when i put it all back together and started it up, the van was leaking stronger than ever. Does anyone have any suggestions? Im getting really desperate. Thanks


I think I ran across a situation where the engine was just too worn out to fix a flywheel main seal leak without cracking the case and updating all the bearings. I tried replacing the seal 3 times & JBwelded all possible leak points before giving up and putting in a different used engine that I had. I used exactly the same seal replacement technique(as per the BB video) & the same flywheel in all cases and the original engine leaked every time and the replacement engine sealed fine the 1st try.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joemac wrote:

And to me, it is NOT perfectly acceptable to call the front main seal by anything other than its correct name. Don't point to a bolt and call it a nut. Yeah, I may know what you mean, but if that's the only criteria, let's just go back to pointing and grunting. Evil or Very Mad


It is perfectly acceptable to call a rear main seal by its correct name, REAR MAIN SEAL. This has been standard engine terminology for a hundred years. The naming convention doesn't change because the engine is installed backwards or sideways in the vehicle. Have you ever heard the crank seal on a transverse engine called the left main seal or right main seal. No likely.

Best to call the rear main seal on a backwards mounted VW or Porsch engine the flywheel seal though as it causes less confusion.
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