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Best Quality Floor Pans?
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Mellow Yellow 74
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 7:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Best Quality Floor Pans? Reply with quote

No idea but they look like handmade early style pans so could be a good alternative to the repro late style ones that everyone else sells. I used the repro ones and they weren’t great so I would probably give these ones a go if I was doing it again.
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cruiser
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 4:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Best Quality Floor Pans? Reply with quote

Noticed these for sale:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2161642

Anyone know anything about these...the manufacturer, quality of product, etc.?
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philoo
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just some words to say that "Denmark" pans are in fact Chinese made pans that are sold by a well know Danish company...
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Gerson
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

all ghia pans are made by the same manufacturer.....
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we (klassicfab) make the funky green panels...........
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BryanM
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so are the pans sold by KGPR and CIP1 from the same manufacturer?
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Re: thickest pans available for Ghia? Reply with quote

PussyCat68 wrote:
I asked Gerson if he has any of his green pans left, and if they will fit a 68. He emphasized "early pans".

Can anyone else tell me the heaviest pans I can find for a 68?


I would think Gerson's would be the heaviest. I bought CIP1's Denmark pans. Not bad quality, close if not the same, to OG thickness.
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68 Bobcat
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:45 am    Post subject: thickest pans available for Ghia? Reply with quote

I asked Gerson if he has any of his green pans left, and if they will fit a 68. He emphasized "early pans".

Can anyone else tell me the heaviest pans I can find for a 68?
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danielsan
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Later pans have the provision for the the fresh air cable. They also slightly different in rear -- there is an round impression and some reinforcement ripples.

Nice work! And yes the Danish pans have dropped in price considerably but from everything I've heard about Gerson's work I'm guessing that these will be easier to install -- and if you aren't installing your own pans that extra time means more money. And it nice to see independent shops making stuff . .

Having said that I would like to see someone make pans like the ones they make for bugs -- with the rails, brake stop, seat belt holes already included so you can bolt on and go --

Like this:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=151701061M
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technik
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

technik wrote:
Whats the difference between early and later ghia pans?
anyone?
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FRNKNSTNGHIA
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drilling the holes is the easiest part once you measure. As my father and every intelligent and patient person will tell you. Measure 100 times and only cut once.
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technik
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whats the difference between early and later ghia pans?
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scotty timmerman
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes u do but they have little indents for where they are suppose to be drilled
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jwold
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Klassicfab pans (or at least this one) appears to have the bolt holes pre-drilled...do you have to drill out those holes on the Denmark pans?
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FRNKNSTNGHIA
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Denmark pans are 19 gauge and are pretty well priced on KGPR. None of the pans come with seat belt points, jack points, or seat tracks. I purchased both sides for about 350 shipped. I cut out old pans and welded new pans in. Yes there is trimming, of course there is trimming its not a bolt on affair. But they are good quality. I recommend them. All the pans on all the websites are the same exact ones. With the exception of the Klassicfabs.
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RockStock
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great news. Well done Gerson.

Quote:
People were asking for these, so here they are, EARLY ghia pans, these are hand made pans, right now we have 5 sets made, depending on demand we will make more......these are big, heavy pieces, cold rolled 18 gauge, nice and thick!!!!fix your ghia right, use the correct floors...


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1310179[/quote]
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

61 BUS wrote:
... the 1/4 pans, which don't specifically state they're Danish and look completely different than the full pans. My pans are rusty at the bottom, but the part around the heater channels and where the seat brackets mount are still in pretty good shape, ...planning on cutting out the rusty bottoms and trimming the new pans to fit around the perimeter and then welding the new pans to the old, good metal. Should I still get the Danish pans and trim them, or should I go with the 1/4 pans? Question


The front quarter pans I've seen are basically flat with no upturned
edges. The rear quarter pans do have some formed edges on them. Made by TABCO in the USA and certainly thicker than the
full Danish pans. They would work for a repair as you described
as long as the metal around the perimeter of your original
pans is in good shape.
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72Ghia
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

61 BUS wrote:
Thanks for the info guys!

I noticed when I was on the KGPR site, as well as the CIP1 and some other suppliers sites, that there seem to be two different variants for the floor pans. The Danish full-length pans and the 1/4 pans, which don't specifically state they're Danish and look completely different than the full pans. My pans are rusty at the bottom, but the part around the heater channels and where the seat brackets mount are still in pretty good shape, so I was not planning on taking the body off, but cutting out the rusty bottoms and trimming the new pans to fit around the perimeter and then welding the new pans to the old, good metal. Should I still get the Danish pans and trim them, or should I go with the 1/4 pans? Question


I'm not quite sure what you want to do but the full sections are probably meant as full replacements. If it's possible to get what you need from the 1/4 section , I'd probably go that route. Might help to check out the "bug me" DVD on pan repair . They show pan repair with both body on & body off. Performed on a Beetle but it's the same procedure as Ghia
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

72Ghia wrote:
sparkleplenty wrote:
You scored...Those are nice...They even have original stamping. Bravo...You should feel VERY good about that purchase... Cool


Yes, but I've made some not so good purchases too..lol. So as the saying goes "it all comes out in the wash."


You ain't kiddin...Me too. Shocked
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72Ghia
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sparkleplenty wrote:
You scored...Those are nice...They even have original stamping. Bravo...You should feel VERY good about that purchase... Cool


Yes, but I've made some not so good purchases too..lol. So as the saying goes "it all comes out in the wash."
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61 BUS Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info guys!

I noticed when I was on the KGPR site, as well as the CIP1 and some other suppliers sites, that there seem to be two different variants for the floor pans. The Danish full-length pans and the 1/4 pans, which don't specifically state they're Danish and look completely different than the full pans. My pans are rusty at the bottom, but the part around the heater channels and where the seat brackets mount are still in pretty good shape, so I was not planning on taking the body off, but cutting out the rusty bottoms and trimming the new pans to fit around the perimeter and then welding the new pans to the old, good metal. Should I still get the Danish pans and trim them, or should I go with the 1/4 pans? Question
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