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Worry about bleeding with Front Heater Core? Bottom post-
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 2:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Worry about bleeding with Front Heater Core? Bottom post- Reply with quote

This is what you want to do on that resistor. I was underwhelmed to find that chunk of heat in that plastic box with the plastic surfaces already bubbled and scorched. So I opted for the Jeep resistor solution.
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Mellow Yellow 74
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Afterwards, no bleeding needed, well none was needed in my 2.1. It purged itself of the air that was introduced by the empty core.


This wasn't the case today on my 1.9 following reinstalling the heater core following replacement of the blower fan. I went for a drive with the heater control still closed to get the system up to temperature then opened the heater control. The temperature gauge didn't increase but when I stopped and checked the level in the overflow tank it was full and water was coming out of the vent. The air in the heater must have been gone back to the pressure tank and pushed the water back to the overflow tank. I am comfident this is just air and not combustion gases because I only drove it for a very short time and it didn't overheat. But if i did this again I would do a full bleed rather than relying on the air escaping from the overflow tank which is the only place is can go when the rest of the system is sealed.
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vanagon_fan_again wrote:
Any input on the resistor before the blower motor?

And Ragnar- quite jealous. I'd kill to get rid of my grungy carpet and upgrade to something so clean and maintenance free. Nice find! Estimated price? (if I could actually find one for sale)


I broke the tabs off the resistor while trying to salvage it from an old heater box recently... (honestly officer, I wasn't pulling that hard)... don't do that.

One thing you could do is wire the switch so that position 3 (ie not going through resistor) is relayed. Might make the switch last longer.

I was very lucky finding the floor mat. The panel van had been in the yard for a while I think, and the front area was all piled up with parts etc. The mat looked like hell, I can't recall for sure how much I paid, but I'm thinking 30.
There was an ad here for one, over $100 I think, Wasn't Daizee interested in it?

Are you going to put a cap on the exposed bearing in the motor? tencentlife posted pics in a thread showing that.

cheers

alistair
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vanagon_fan_again
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any input on the resistor before the blower motor?

And Ragnar- quite jealous. I'd kill to get rid of my grungy carpet and upgrade to something so clean and maintenance free. Nice find! Estimated price? (if I could actually find one for sale)
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vanagon_fan_again wrote:


Another thing that made me think it had been tampered with was the bigger heater tube coming off the left side to come out for the driverside hand vent had some sort of a sock(?) type material around it, stapled to it. Is this actually original or is it someone elses handy work?

And ragnarhairybreeks- Scary sight with the dash off isn't it? Curious- Whats up with that flooring, is that like a Vanagon specific mat or is that OEM flooring in some models? Either way, know where to get any more and cost? Looks nice.


As others have said, the sock is stock. I'll throw in my idea of "rattle reducer" as the function.

My pic of the dash off... was the 4th or maybe even the 5th time I've pulled a vanagon dash. Its a doddle getting it off, but I always get slowed down by the re-install. Its the wiring mainly, especially the stereo's rat's nest. I'll sound like a broken record when I say lubricate all you can in the pedal assembly.

Syncrodoka answered the mat question, I was lucky and found mine in a wrecked panel van. It is useful, I posted pics of it on my blog.
http://shufti.wordpress.com/2009/11/28/full-front-rubber-mat/


alistair
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Curious- Whats up with that flooring, is that like a Vanagon specific mat or is that OEM flooring in some models?

It is a rubberized mat that some strippy models and trucks got from VW instead of carpet. I have one in my truck and I love how easy it is to clean mud off of. They have become desireable and they are usually pricey if you can find one.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I'm pretty sure my motor is bad as it wont spin freely,

Yes, if the squirrel cage cannot be turned easily it is a goner.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Weird.. Whats the purpose of it?


Dunno, but I have seen many of them and they all had the sock on it.
Possibly for abrasion resistance for the heater control cables?
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vanagon_fan_again
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
Quote:
Another thing that made me think it had been tampered with was the bigger heater tube coming off the left side to come out for the driverside hand vent had some sort of a sock(?) type material around it, stapled to it. Is this actually original or is it someone elses handy work?

That is stock. It goes to the dash vent to the left of the instrument cluster.


Weird.. Whats the purpose of it?
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vanagon_fan_again
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh and another big question- I'm pretty sure my motor is bad as it wont spin freely, but what if my resistor is bad also? Where can I get one and how can I test mine? Thanks
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Another thing that made me think it had been tampered with was the bigger heater tube coming off the left side to come out for the driverside hand vent had some sort of a sock(?) type material around it, stapled to it. Is this actually original or is it someone elses handy work?

That is stock. It goes to the dash vent to the left of the instrument cluster.
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vanagon_fan_again
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guess mine was an untampered box after all. I assumed it was glued or something for how hard it was to get it to break apart then on the bottom I noticed how it had been melted together.. I thought "Boy, this guy really did a number on my heater box" hah..

Anyways with a little more force than I had used prior, I got it to pop apart. So no worries about unhooking the heater core. I'm glad to hear the ziptie method, was considering something like that.

Never seen anything like those hose pinch pliers but boy I'd like to have a couple pairs of em.. I'll look around for some.

Another thing that made me think it had been tampered with was the bigger heater tube coming off the left side to come out for the driverside hand vent had some sort of a sock(?) type material around it, stapled to it. Is this actually original or is it someone elses handy work?

And ragnarhairybreeks- Scary sight with the dash off isn't it? Curious- Whats up with that flooring, is that like a Vanagon specific mat or is that OEM flooring in some models? Either way, know where to get any more and cost? Looks nice.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Virgin boxes aren't clipped together and they aren't glued but plastic welded or heat welded though. It must have been opened at one time.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
On to my next problem- Unknown to me, as I naively like to think of my van as a virgin that hasnt had many people working on it despite it being an 89 and me personally only owning it for a year, Someone has already been where I'm at now and had lost all but one of the heater clips and has simply glued it back together. Rolling Eyes


The virgin blowers are glued together. You use the clips only after you have opened it. The clips are not cheap and I drill holes and use wire ties to hold the two halves together after opening it. This method was suggested by another samba member and works well.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go down to sears and get a couple pair of these-
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947051000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
They also have a smaller pair that might do the job as well. I have used them for those heater lines, vacuum lines, coolant hoses and fuel lines quite nicely. They are easy to clamp and they have a blunt rounded edge so they don't cut what you are clamping off and when you want to remove them they pop open easily.
Clamp them near the heater core and have a rag ready for it's contents. Bleeding will be minimal if any once you reinstall the new heater core.
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

use C clamps to pinch off the heater hoses in the cab. A towel on the floor will catch a bit of the coolant coming out of the core when you disconnect the hoses.

Afterwards, no bleeding needed, well none was needed in my 2.1. It purged itself of the air that was introduced by the empty core.


you can make out the blue C clamps in this pic
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


alistair

PS lube the pedal assembly
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vanagon_fan_again
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well... I got the tough screws out, but not in the way i had hoped. Confused

The head broke off the right one, and I drilled the head off the left one.. Not ideal, but it worked. I'll pick up the pieces before I get it all back together, with a tap or some helicoil if it comes to that...

On to my next problem- Unknown to me, as I naively like to think of my van as a virgin that hasnt had many people working on it despite it being an 89 and me personally only owning it for a year, Someone has already been where I'm at now and had lost all but one of the heater clips and has simply glued it back together. Rolling Eyes

So now I'm having a tough time breaking it open, and I figure it'll be an even tougher time resealing it- So I'm planning on disconnecting the heater core, and getting it to a work table. Originally just going in to change the blower motor so wasnt planning on having to disconnect the core hoses..

My newest question- If I do pull the hoses, Am I going to have an awful headache with bleeding this sucker when i hook it back up? I planned on simply pulling one at a time and draining into a bucket, then draining the core- Advice?

If limited replies, I may repost this on a new thread with a more suiting title..

Thanks Guys-

Oh and also- IdahoDoug; Smart thinking, I only wish I would've asked around here before taking a rushed crack at it. Thanks.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get the PB Blaster in place, I've purchased an 18" length of the red straw you spray through for other projects like this. Then you get the tip up at the screw by feel and if you hold your tongue just right and simply press the top of the can against something to release the spray you get it exactly where you want it. Later when you're going to try to unscrew it, do the same thing with the straw but now you're using brake cleaner to blast oil out of the phillips head (oil in there is the last thing you want now) so the screwdriver tip of choice will grip well.

Sears also sells a Nextec(sp?) cordless right angle impact driver that may fit up there. It's designed to loosen screws and is about $100. I have one and have used it for a couple other dandy seized screws in tight quarters.

DougM
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you get some vise-grips on the head of that stripped screw? Not sure what kind of space you have to work with, but worth a try perhaps.
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill the bugger. But can you get the bit in there and centered ok?

At least you have the other bolts to size the drill bit, a tad less than the threaded diameter sound good?

Maybe even a left hand twist drill?

good luck

alistair
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