Dissecting the ignition switch electrical (wordy w/ pics)

[ashman40]

[Cusser]

Yes, please do not cut wires and use crimp butt-connectors !!!!
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[J-Gaz.]

I've got a 70 Beetle, and the metal housing, I'm going to be doing this later this month. Although as stated above, the housing could have come loose, I have already purchased a new nos part.

My question is, does anyone have pictures of where the pigtails connect. I don't want to do as Cusser Says, and get lazy and just crimp the wires to the old wires under the dash.
Appreciate it.

Probably obvious when in the car, but I've found that reference pictures are always helpful.

Appreciate it.

[Seanlithman]

[edge540T]

[ashman40]

I've not opened up a '68-'70 aftermarket ignition switch, but if it was anything like my aftermarket '71 switch the electrical contact areas inside the switch are small. This means they will burn quickly with use.

I recommend you add a Bosch-type SPST/SPDT relay to the #15 circuit immediately after the ignition switch (between switch and fuse box) and a Hard Start Relay to the #50 circuit (under the rear seat is okay). This will reduce the current flow thru the ignition switch contacts to just 50~100mA (current needed to energize the Bosch relay). That will extend the lifespan of the (poor) ignition switch contacts by minimizing the current flow thru the contacts. Add a resistor/capacitor to the relay and your will get even more lifespan.
This only helps if the internal contacts are getting burnt. Adding relays won't help if the mechanicals of the switch are breaking.
_________________
AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[veedub19-68]

[ashman40]

[veedub19-68]

[chookhen]

Thank you Ashman, I will take your advice.
Cheers, chookhen.

[ashman40]

[ashman40]

[chookhen]

Hi All,
First day today so forgive me if I am perhaps in the wrong section.
My 71 super's ignition switch decided to stay fully engaged in the switch on position resulting in continual engagement of the starter which on returning to the on position power was cut and engine stopped.
I managed to remove the barrel but switch is hard wired in.
Would a solution be to place a momentary switch between key switch and the the wire to the starter with the spade connection so key could be left in tne on position and momentary switch would activate the circuit.
I note the spade connection wire I would be breaking for the switch is not particularly large, would a high ampere switch be sufficient or should a relay be fitted, I would include a fuse in circuit.
Does all this make any sense.?
I would appreciate any criticism or ideas from members who no doubt will have more knowledge than me.
Greetings from Queensland.
i

[edjose17]

[DesignBuild]

Thanks Ashman40 for the further explanation of where to put the relays for the other high current wires coming from the ignition switch.

Many years ago I came across an article about improving headlights and reducing headlight glare, I was surprised to still find it on the internet though it appears to have been updated. The author is Daniel Stern. He has a website: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

There are loads of things on his website that include using relays for headlights, headlight switches, and other electrical improvements; lots od how to instructions. It is well work checking out.

[ashman40]

[DesignBuild]

TK-CS: your description of the EU Bug switch terminals has me stumped. What is w/o 'P'? What is the reference to P? I have a 1972 EU Super Beetle and I just had starting problems this past Sunday. When I turned the key I got no response from the starter though all the lights that normally light up when the key is turned to the ON position worked. It took some jiggling of the key and lock cylinder before the engine started. The actual engine starting is never a problem. Even after sitting for a week or more it starts with no cranking. I have an AB 1300 engine. I will be looking at the mechanical key and the ignition switch. I hope I can save it with the Hard Starting kit and with the installation of an ignition relay. The Hard Starting relay and the ignition relay will take the high current off the switch contacts and put the current on the relays.

Would like to do the same thing for the other high current switches like the headlight switch. I am surprised the Beetles didn't have a horn relay. I can't think of any American car back into the 1930s that didn't use a horn relay. Not using a relay may contribute to the anemic sounding horn.

[DesignBuild]

I believe the plug you are looking for was used on the 72 through 74 1/2 Super Beetles and possibly on Standards too. If there was a part number for the plug only it might be used in newer vehicles too. With all the Beetles and other cars that used this plug connection and that are rotting away there should be a few hundred or thousand that could be salvaged. I think I found this on TheSamba. The original author's name is on the picture.

[TK-CS]

[dvancleve]