1968 Type 1 - My First Resto

[73Grabber]

As someone who is just about to start working on a 1973 Beetle, this thread has been mega.

Looking forward to your updates.

[CoastalBug]

This was a very fun read! Good looking bug too! I only hope I have the ability to do the same one day.

[Cage44]

Clockworkbox - thanks for the comment and hope it can help. I need to finish this thread but I have been enjoying driving around town when I can. Stay tuned, will wrap this up over the Summer. Thanks!
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'68 Bug
Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20

[clockworkbox]

This is a master class build thread. Thank you for taking the time to document these procedures so well. Bookmarked for sure.
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'69 Beetle (pieces)
Learning the hard way is still learning...

[amaskedman]

Updates stopped? I have a 68 and I have been very interested in this thread. I hope everything is ok.

[AircooledUnicorn]

This is incredible! Well done and good luck.

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Well done sir! That is one exquisite bug you have and this is an amazing write up on all of your hardwork!

I'll be watching, reading, and learning along with your resto
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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[joey1320]

Hmmm Pringles.
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1971 Super - Sold
1984 Puma GTC - Sold
1971 Campmobile

[chadmark88]

GREAT build thread !!! Your detailed pictures will help a lot while working on my 1969. Thanks for all your hard work taking these pictures and describing EVERY detail.
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1969 Autostick - Savannah Beige / Brown Interior

"The Only People Worth Getting Even With . . .
. . . Are Those Who Have Helped You"

"If You're Lucky Enough To Be Healthy . . .
. . . You're Lucky Enough"

[Mopar_Beach]

I just read through this entire thread...AWESOME!!! I am new to VW, been a Mopar guy my whole life and have a '71 Super vert that I am going through. This will HELP tremendously! Keep up the great work and your thoroughness with attention to detail is admirable.
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1970 Dodge Challenger, 440, 4-speed, R/T, Plum Crazy
2007 Jeep Wrangler X, 4X4, 3.8L, Detonator Yellow
2007 Jeep Commander, 4.7L, Rocky Mountain Edition, Black
Looking for a bug...Type 1

[Bruit]

I'm not entirely sure, that's why i figured I'd ask
I looked into it a while ago but eventually gave up. I haven't seen much mention of it but I saved a couple threads. I remember looking up part numbers but not getting far because I can't read or discern any model numbers on mine. It does appear different years and different manufacturers used different o-rings.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389108&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Look for the user zundapp's post. His first post asks about it and then his second post a little further down has a picture of an o-ring he found in one of his air cleaners.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2232722&highlight=#2232722
This one has a better picture of where it goes.

It would seem that it keeps air from bypassing the filter through the space between the filter top half and the velocity stack of the bottom half. So it sounds kind of important, but it also sounds like a lot of people do not have that ring. So I can't comment on just how important it is. But definitely let me know if you have better luck digging up information or finding one!

[Cage44]

Thanks Bruit. I have had 2 68 only air cleaners in this bug over 20+ years and none of them had an o-ring. I did not know that part existed. I will look into that. Do you have any old factory pictures of this set up with the ring? Do you know if the o-ring was only used on certain years? Just curios. Thanks again for the tip.
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'68 Bug
Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20

[Bruit]

Cage44,

This is an awesome thread. I love the attention to detail and all the pictures. I am bookmarking this for future reference for myself. And even though it's been said already... you are doing an absolutely fantastic job!

On a side note, did you find an O-ring that goes between the top and bottom halves of the air cleaner? Or maybe a close replacement? I don't see it in the pics.

[Cage44]

Thanks a.wilson!

UPDATE: Oil bath air cleaner part 2

With the primer already on, I painted the oil bath pieces (top and bottom) gloss black.

Next, I moved on to all the rest of the pieces that are comprised of the latch assemblies, flaps and flap holders. For the latches, I removed all the existing paint with paint remover and the wire wheel on the bench grinder. I then shot a coat of etching primer, regular primer than silver paint.

The flaps were covered in grime. I soaked the flaps and the flap plastic holder in degreaser and used a small wire brush to clean off all of the grime. I then rinsed, repeated until everything was clean. I then painted those with etching primer, regular primer then silver paint.

With all of the little parts completed, time for re-assembly. Here is a shot of the
all the little parts.

I started with the flaps. The flaps insert into precut slots and are held by plastic pieces that clip onto the bar of each flap. The plastic pieces slide right into cross cuts on both ends of the pre-cut slots. I think pictures can explain it better than I can. Same approach for both flaps.

I then moved on to each clasp assembly; there are 4. The bent spring clasp attaches first, then the clip that holds the top part of the oil bath and finally the cotter pin to hold both parts together. I installed all of my cotter pins the same direction, slide them in from the left. It was that way when I took it off so I followed suit. No problems with fitment.

Her are final pics of the completed assembly and how it look son the engine.

Thanks.
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'68 Bug
Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20

[a.wilson]

Great detailed photos on everything, Cage.
This build is one of the few dozen that I enjoy reading.

Looking forward to seeing the finished result!
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Be kind to all critters. America's "H8TERZ" can drink sludgy used Motor Oil!


oemwolf

[Cage44]

UPDATE: Oil bath air cleaner
While I am still contemplating cooling changes to the engine (bug has been running fine with no heating issues), I decided to keep moving on other engine parts that need attention. I decided to strip down the oil bath and give it fresh paint. It is the first thing I look at every time I open the deck lid, so I thought I would make it look the best that I can.

Unfortunately, years ago I had to swap out my original 68 air cleaner for an updated one to work with the smog equipment I had to purchase. Of course, I did not keep the oil bath so I bought one on the Samba classifieds. There is only one oil bath air cleaner that was supplied for 68. Looks similar to the 67 with the two side air intakes and 1 large hose connection instead of 2 small hose connections on the 67.

Here are a few before shots – I took shots at different angles to make it easier if you are trying to confirm a 68 oil bath air cleaner.

Unhook the clasps and the top part of the oil bath will slide out. Close up of the horse hair contained in the top piece.

Next, I removed each clip to clean and paint those as well. Each clasp has a cotter pin that secures it. I just closed the ends of the cotter pin and slid it out. I like to keep things in order and re-install in the same place where I can. So, I used my chip cups and placed them in the place they are when installed (based on facing the front of the oil bath).

The flaps within each air intake are held on by a plastic sleeve. There is a set for each air intake. I was a little hesitant deciding to remove them, since I was not sure how pliable or brittle they may be and did not want to break them. I decided to pull them out after I started cleaning up the oil bath. Here is a shot where the flap is located and the pieces once removed. Also, there is a little metal piece that is used to hold the flap cable. It is a tiny screw so I had to use a small screwdriver and pliers to get some torque.

With all of the parts removed, I cleaned up any old grease with a degreaser. After that, I decided to strip the old paint off with paint stripper to get back to bare metal. I had to apply the stripper a few rounds and use a wire brush and sandpaper to get all the paint off and any surface rust. It has rust on the bottom which someone just painted over. The oil bath was a little rougher than expected, but there are no holes and the rough spots cannot be seen. Here are a few shots of the cleaned up and stripped pieces.

Here is a shot of the oil fill line within the oil bath. There is a distinct arrow that shows the maximum amount of oil that should be added. I did not strip any of the insides since it was in great shape. I just cleaned any old oil and grease off.

I masked off pieces I did not want to paint and painted both oil bath pieces (top and bottom) with etching primer. I lightly wiped the pieces down after the paint dried, then added a coat of primer.

With the primer drying, I moved on to the clasps and flaps which I will update on later. Thanks.
_________________
'68 Bug
Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20

[Cage44]

UPDATE: parts I carry with the bug.

Now that I am driving the bug on a more frequent basis, even if just for a cruise after work for 10 to 15 miles, I decided to build up my insurance (spare parts stash).

After owning and driving this bug for 29 years, I've had my share of "on the side of the road" incidents that needed attention. It was easier to have a part on hand for a quick fix, versus towing the bug to a garage, etc. Frankly, I learned while doing as items would fail and leave me on the side of the road. For example, when my first accelerator cable broke, I bought 1 to fix it and 1 to store in the bug for next time. That is how it got rolling. Over the years, I have had issues where the "insurance parts" were needed, which saved me a lot of time and headache, or I had the part for a nice passerby to stop and give me a hand.

Flash forward to today, and there are very, very few local places that would have a part to get me back on the road, so I think having spares are even more important now more than ever.

Now, one caveat. This does not mean my bug, or bugs in general, breakdown every week, or month for that matter. Our cars are old. Mine is almost 50 years old, crap happens. I currently keep the following parts and pieces on hand, in a small bag in the trunk, that can be the culprits for a sudden breakdown or used for a repair to get home:

accelerator cable
clutch cable
fan belt
coil
rotor
condenser
points
spark plugs
fuses
fuel filters
oil strainer and gasket kit
duct tape
electrical tape
John Muir book

In the past, I carried a spare fuel pump and a spare distributor that was all set with the new parts (condenser, points, etc.) so I could simply slip it in and go I intend to add those to items to the "insurance" stash, with the hope I do not need any of these things.

_________________
'68 Bug
Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20

[Cage44]

UPDATE: Fresh Air Box / Fresh Air Control Box and related items.

With the fresh air box installed, time for the finishing touches. First, I started with the fresh air box drain tube. I used my original since it was not cracked. I cleaned it up and slipped it onto the bottom drain of the fresh air box.

I had stereo wires going down the same path that the fresh air box drain tube goes, so I decided to use some left over cable wrap to tidy things up. I just cut it to size then installed.

Now for the drain tube. I had a metal pipe that was used when I bought the car decades ago, so I decided to replace it with a paper drain tube to match everything else. The tube came a tad too long so I did cut a little off one end. The tube goes from the bottom of the drain tube in the fresh air box, and then inserts into the opening about 14 inches below the tube and enters through a hole that allows the water to drain out to the front of the car, past the firewall. When you ever replace this, make sure the tube goes through that hole and not just into the opening or you could get water in unwanted places. My stereo wires enter the cabin from the same area, so it was important that I make sure the drain tube goes through the hole past the firewall.

Next, I installed the wiring cover using 2 knurled nuts. Mine were in great shape so I just cleaned them up and secured the wiring cover. Finally, I bought a new seal for the fresh air box that goes on top to seal the hood opening when the hood is down. The seal has a groove and lip that rests right on top of the fresh air box. Not the best fit, but it does the job.

Here are a few final shots with everything installed. Not the cleanest but it covers most of the wiring rats nest and keeps things looking somewhat tidy and finished looking. Trunk is now complete.

_________________
'68 Bug
Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20

[Cage44]

UPDATE: Fresh Air Box / Fresh Air Control Box

With the fresh air hoses and defrost hoses in place, it was time to install the Fresh Air Box and the mechanism that controls the air flaps in the box which has posts that go through the dash to the cabin.

I cleaned up the fresh air box and the adjusting knob mechanism. Being inside the trunk it was not very dirty. I had very little lubrication on the gears, so I made a note to clean up what was there and lube it before re-installation. Here are a few shots of the assembly before and after it was cleaned up.

Here are a few close ups of the gear assemblies:

Interesting how the long plastic piece that the gear connects to has different size teeth, they have different depths:

Since the cables are moved by the gears that then open and close the flaps to the fresh air box, I used steel wool on the cables and sprayed lubricant down each cable sleeve until the cables moved smoothly and the flaps as well. Here is a photo of one flap open and closed.

I used white lithium grease for each gear and twisted the knobs back and forth to distribute the grease.

Once everything was lubed up, time to install the gear assembly. I could not install it with the ash tray installed so I removed the ash tray. Once that was out of the way, I was able to work the gear assembly in its place. The two knob rods need to go through the dash holes where you control the flaps from inside the cabin. It was a little tricky since there is not much space, but you know when it fits. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING. I would get one knob inserted but the other side would not go in, or vice versa. Once it is lined up it will slide in and allow you to bolt it down. The space is tight, but the assembly bolts in two places, with a bolt on the left side and a bolt on the right. Here are a few shots of the placement and where the assembly bolts onto the body. Once bolted in, I was able to re-install the ashtray.

With the assembly in place, I could now complete the last set of dash knobs for the interior. The knobs are easy to identify since they have square openings to go over the gear assembly shafts. Here is a host before I cleaned them up.

I purchased new knob inserts and simply slipped them into the rubber knob.

Here is the center part of the dash with all knobs installed and working.

Next the glove box. My original box was beat badly. The edges are all frayed from the many times in high school I had to remove it to unlock the doors since I locked my keys in the bug.

I purchased a new box and installed it next. The box is held by a metal strap that screws in place right under the glove box. I used nylon washer so no paint was scratched. Once installed, the hose is placed just inside the bracket where the dash wiring cover is installed.

Next, the fresh air box. The box attaches right at the top of the trunk, and slides under the lip where the 3 screw holes are. My old screws were rusty and the washers were different sizes. I used new stainless steel screws and nylon washers.

I purchased new paper hoses for the ends of the fresh air chamber where it connects to the plastic hoses that connect to the dash vents. They were a little long, so I had to cut them a little. I measured and cut each side separately just in case they were different sizes…I did not want to short it.

There are a few final steps to complete the trunk…stay tuned.
_________________
'68 Bug
Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20

[Cage44]

Coxbzh – thanks and I am glad I could provide some help.
Chochobeef – thanks, I getting very close to wrapping this up.

UPDATE: Trunk Fresh Air Hoses, Defrost Hoses

With the speedo installed and working, it is time to install the fresh air and defrost hoses. I had the original defrost hoses (the short hoses that connect to the each side of the windshield, just pass the hood brackets and springs). See picture below – it is the larger diameter connection:

The new hose had to be cut down since it was supplied as 1 long piece.

Using a blade, I decided to cut the new paper hose slightly longer than the original so that I cut trim it down a little at a time until it fits. I cut both the driver side and passenger side the same length to start.

Once I found the proper hose length, I slide the new paper hose onto the bottom connection then connected the other end to the metal connection at the top near the edge of the windshield.

Here is the driver side hose installed.

Next, I installed the defrost hoses (may be called pre-heat hoses) that connect to the center vent in the dash. These hoses are plastic and my original hoses are in good shape so I re-used them. During tear down, I labeled everything which makes reassembly much easier.

I cleaned up each hose removing old dust and other grit then installed the passenger side first. One end of the hose goes to the other part of the “Y” connection near the top corner of the trunk…same Y connection where the defrost hose connects to. The other end of the hose connects to the center vents on the dash board. Here are shots of the passenger side hose:
Here is the top connection, just past the wiper motor assembly and just above the stereo:

Here is the bottom connection, where it connects to the “Y”.

Once connected, the hose runs in front of the glove box when facing the trunk.

The driver side was a little more difficult to get to since there are more things in the way. The top connection will connect to the center vent (driver side) in the dash then to the Y on the driver side.

Next I installed the fresh air duct that will connect to the remaining dash vents and ultimately to the plenum chamber that sits directly under the hood cut outs above the VW emblem.

Here is a shot of the original plastic ducts and the part number for one of them:

The ducts connect to the dash vents, one on the passenger side and one on the driver side. They simply push and clip onto the bottom of the dash vents.

Here is the passenger one installed:

Here is a picture of the bottom of the driver side dash vent and the duct installed:

Here are both ducts installed and waiting for the plenum chamber - fresh air box.

I will update with pictures of the plenum chamber - fresh air box - and other parts needed for the installation.
_________________
'68 Bug
Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=20