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Dcoe 40 weber non turbo Specs ( Update) It's here
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a number for Mark Harney http://www.carburetorclinic.com/ I would like to talk to him, I hate typing what I have to say If it is possible.
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info Darthweber, I sent a pm to him..I also found ACE ( air cooled engineering) they had great feedback also. So we will see what they say, Thanks again got my fingers crossed .
You were correct on the 28 venturies.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot Air wrote:
Still need to get some stackes and rebuild it. I am just not sure who to send it too.
Send it to Mark Harney http://www.carburetorclinic.com/
For velocity stacks see my post above or let Mark take care of it.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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esde
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If that's a shortened buggy you could probably swap jets without leaving the driver seat! Looks perfect for the buggy, be interested to hear how it runs. If the carb isn't too dirty, could you do with a soak, blow it out, and overhaul kit yourself?
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 5:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I just installed the center mount set up. Still need to get some stackes and rebuild it. I am just not sure who to send it too.here are some pics.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot Air wrote:
What stacks will fit this . do I have to look for 40 weber or will other stacks fit.
I will post some pic tomorrow.
Also if anybody knows what would be a good size for a stock motor.

Many choices:
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/52840.010.htm
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/09-9040.htm
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/52840.012.htm
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99217.225.htm
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What stacks will fit this . do I have to look for 40 weber or will other stacks fit.
I will post some pic tomorrow.
Also if anybody knows what would be a good size for a stock motor.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot Air wrote:
OK I got it . It is a 40 DCOE-18 weber Itialian made.
Specs:
Main Jets: 120 (130 - 140)
Air corrector jets: 195 (180)
idel jets: 50F13 (55 - 60)
Pump jet 50
Emulsion tubes: F11 (F7 is better I think)
venturis: 30mm (28mm)

What sould I cange to get it to run on a stock 1600 motor (all new mexican motor )


Those would be my guesses to get you close but I'm no expert on single carbs let alone unusual single side draft carb setups like yours. Others will come up with better advice no doubt.

I believe a problem you might encounter, and a reason why this type of setup wasn't real popular, is because a side draft carb is supposed to be mounted perpendicular to the direction the car is going. This means the float is less affected by stop and go motion or hard acceleration and braking. You might be able to get around this by using a ball type inlet valve instead of a needle type. This limits the float travel and controls fuel levels in the float bowl and jet wells better.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I got it . It is a 40 DCOE-18 weber Itialian made.
Specs:
Main Jets: 120
Air corrector jets: 195
idel jets: 50F13
Pump jet 50
Emulsion tubes: F11
venturis: 30mm

What sould I cange to get it to run on a stock 1600 motor (all new mexican motor )
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot Air wrote:
Pandion, Glad to hear someone else used one. I cant wait for it to come in. I will have to get it cleaned up and re chromed. Summer use only so no heat tubes. I will need to get staks for it any certain size ? what type stacks fit it ?


Sorry, all I remember is a K&N type filter, not what was under it.
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TURBOEDVW
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the manifold and carb bolt together. I have a car craft manifold that runs oil through it and it bolts to the carb and it's welded to the turbo or you have to run a hose and clamp to connect to the turbo. This manifold is designed for the carb to bolt directly to it. You could build a spacer of some sort and run oil beneath it to warm it.
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pandion, Glad to hear someone else used one. I cant wait for it to come in. I will have to get it cleaned up and re chromed. Summer use only so no heat tubes. I will need to get staks for it any certain size ? what type stacks fit it ?
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had one of these setups on my 1600+ DP Beetle back in '81. Big jump in top end power for autocrossing, but I never really got it jetted right for bottom end. I didn't worry about heating the runners. It was summer in central Texas. It looked kind of dumb on my Beetle with the deck lid off, but it should look good on a dune buggy. DCOEs are great carbs. I used to put quite a few of them on old MGs, Triumphs and Datson Z-cars to replace emission Strombergs. Every bit as tunable as IDFs and the jets are easy to get to.
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea The manifold is facing outwards for the sidedraft but still needs the piece for the oil cooling to the Turbo connection.

Three pieces....Carb....center section for the oil to go thru...Turbo itself.

Center section needs hot oil or will ice up and sweat.
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

why do you say it is facing the wrong way, now I am confused. OH SH#* I hope this will work.
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could still blow through it with a T3 or something.
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66brm
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

May have to fit a 911 shroud
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modok wrote:
I am an expert at fitting things in holes, been doing it a long time
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, you're right, the manifold was welded the wrong way! The carb will interfere with the fan shroud. Shocked
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look at that manifold again.
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea Stupid question here.

How does a person run a 40 DCOE SIDE DRAFT carb on a vertical intake manifold?....suppose a weld job could solve that issue.

I have the same carb on my 1776cc Turbo engine thats over 20 ys running.
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