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1988 Vanagon with bucking and eventual stalling problem
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OldBlueSyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:50 am    Post subject: Re: 1988 Vanagon with bucking and eventual stalling problem Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
nB...OP last visited in 2012, cold dead thread.


Guess I should have checked that. Thanks
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 4:54 am    Post subject: Re: 1988 Vanagon with bucking and eventual stalling problem Reply with quote

nB...OP last visited in 2012, cold dead thread.
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OldBlueSyncro
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

srb wrote:
I'm waiting to hear back from some ECU seller on thesamba.com.

I think I might as well break down and just buy a used on that's known working.


Thinking I'm having the same issue as you. Did it end up being your ecu?

The bucks feel like I've got a rope tied to a pole and the other end to my hitch. Quick drops in rpm and then right back to where they were.

I pulled my ecu off and laid it flat and it didnt buck once on my short drive back home. I'll have to drive it more to confirm that it's fixed the issue.
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where are you broken down? I try to break down at big auto parts stores, limping there if possible or I get towed to one if I plan to work on it myself. That way I can buy wire, other parts, and tools as I work on the problem. Nobody seems to mind if you have your head in the engine compartment while at an auto parts store. Other guys come and go there all the time so you can ask for a hand from someone likely to be willing to help, over and over as needed.

It is a simple matter to rig a wire in the back to make the starter crank from the engine compartment. You just need about 3 feet of 12 or 14 gauge wire and a female spade crimped onto one end.

Also, on the front of the engine relay box is a 2 wire connector that plugs into the relay box. You can use that to stop the engine from the back with the key still on. Just pull that connector loose and the ECU and fuel pump power will be disconnected immediately.

Mark
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CaptTurbo
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked to see that you still have fuel pressure?
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Flat in the back
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
"Vanagon Syndrome" has nothing to do with any starting problems. Most vans with the true syndrome start fine. That is one of the ways the syndrome is officially diagnosed. The van starts fine, drives fine, but after a while it start bucking or whatever. If you stop and start the engine the bucking always goes away. It may come back soon or it may not come back for a long time. That is the syndrome symptoms. Of course you can have more than one problem, including the syndrome.

Mark



Flat in the back wrote:
....this is starting to sound more and more like the so called " vanagon symdrome" to me.. i did put in a good few hundred miles from LA to santa barbara to the central coast vw club campout event last week. it ran like a champ there and back, but not exactly the case right now....


ahh i see.. well i did experience the bucking when i'm starting in every gear the day after i put about 2-300 miles drive. the bucking continued but didn't seem to be too terrible till it just stalled while i was driving yesterday. i just tried to lay the ecu down flat and that didn't seem to have any effect. it's tough being by myself cuz i can't seem to find a good way to see if the engine is getting sparks when i'm at the driver seat cranking the engine. i tried to do it by listening but just can't to sure..

man, i camped out on the side of the road last night and i really hope i don't have to do it again tonight.. i might have to give in and call AAA later on today Sad
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Vanagon Syndrome" has nothing to do with any starting problems. Most vans with the true syndrome start fine. That is one of the ways the syndrome is officially diagnosed. The van starts fine, drives fine, but after a while it start bucking or whatever. If you stop and start the engine the bucking always goes away. It may come back soon or it may not come back for a long time. That is the syndrome symptoms. Of course you can have more than one problem, including the syndrome.

Mark



Flat in the back wrote:
....this is starting to sound more and more like the so called " vanagon symdrome" to me.. i did put in a good few hundred miles from LA to santa barbara to the central coast vw club campout event last week. it ran like a champ there and back, but not exactly the case right now....
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Flat in the back
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

morymob wrote:
U may notice that the cable to the ecu is pretty stiff with time and caused mine to pop partially off once. Take a heat lamp/heat gun and carefully warm up cable until it bends easily(after ecu mounted) and re-bend so no strain on connector. Have u done ALL the grounds recently?


i just got the battery disconnected and ready to pull all the crap i have under the back seat to look into it.. thanks for that tip on the stiff hardness, i will be careful about that.

this is starting to sound more and more like the so called " vanagon symdrome" to me.. i did put in a good few hundred miles from LA to santa barbara to the central coast vw club campout event last week. it ran like a champ there and back, but not exactly the case right now....
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morymob
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

U may notice that the cable to the ecu is pretty stiff with time and caused mine to pop partially off once. Take a heat lamp/heat gun and carefully warm up cable until it bends easily(after ecu mounted) and re-bend so no strain on connector. Have u done ALL the grounds recently?
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Flat in the back
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi there, i came across your thread cuz i'm researching on how to fix my 89 vanagon.. it had the similar bucking situation for the past few days. the engine bucked when i took off in every gear, it even backfired at one point. but if i were to give it a few revs or keep the rpm high then i was able to take off fine. i was figuring it out in my head as i was driving, thinking it might be either fuel or hall sensor. but this morning after i pulled out of the walgreen's driveway, the van just stalled as i was shifting. i didn't even notice it at first, but then i thought i might be low on gas. so i put some fuel in it and checked the 7mm bolt at the fuel line T and there was gas squirting out. so i replaced the distributor with a good used one i bought a while back as a spare, and it didn't make any difference.. my van still isn't starting Sad
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srb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm waiting to hear back from some ECU seller on thesamba.com.

I think I might as well break down and just buy a used on that's known working.
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My ECU seems silent... though on an 84 it is somewhat diffferent and in the engine compartment.
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MidwestDrifter
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have a water boxer. But my digifant 2 ecu doesn't make any discernible noise. However my ignition module does make some humming noise sometimes. Maybe try out a used ECU?
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srb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

*bump*

Any one got the time to put their ear to their ECU?
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srb
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if one of you wizards could do me a favor:

Start of your van, lift the back bench up, and listen to the ECU. Does it make a high-paced clicking sound?

Mine does, it's rather loud, and I wanted to know if that is normal. Or, if any clicking sound should be heard from the device.

Cheers.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With most of the components on these boards, brief excursions to 200c is acceptable. In the factory they usually flow (melt the solder) in an oven.

They key to not damaging the components is to have your iron nice and hot and to get in and out quickly. A colder iron will take longer to melt the solder on the pad and can actually cause more heat damage.

For example xbox 360s have a common cold solder joint issue. I have fixed many by just tossing them in the oven...
http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/xbox-360-oven-reflow-tutorial.201540/

Certain components don't like getting really hot, like capacitors. However they have small leads, so doing a hand re-flow isn't much of a concern.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MidwestDrifter wrote:
Ya if you can locate the bad joints its not to tough to fix. Sometimes you can't see the cracks, then its a hit or miss kinda thing. They way to prevent this it to stress relieve the plug where the harness connects to the ECU. The goal is to prevent any type of cyclical/fatigue stress by removing the possibility of vibration. It could also be your harness not the ECU. Might be worth it to follow the service manual checks for the harness, looking for an intermittent issue.


Regardless of component(s) involved, would one be wise to get or devise some kind of heat sink clamp when re-sweating cracked solder joints? Like clamp it to the lead before applying heat?

There's some more pics of failed solder joints here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/117189706757545167023/SolderFatigue

@ srb. Sorry. I get acronym happy on these forums.

Neil.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya if you can locate the bad joints its not to tough to fix. Sometimes you can't see the cracks, then its a hit or miss kinda thing. They way to prevent this it to stress relieve the plug where the harness connects to the ECU. The goal is to prevent any type of cyclical/fatigue stress by removing the possibility of vibration. It could also be your harness not the ECU. Might be worth it to follow the service manual checks for the harness, looking for an intermittent issue.
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srb
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Midwest Drifter. I'd be game to crack it open and resolder, but yes, 100 bucks and I could just throw in a new, used ECU. Hmmm....
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PCB=Printed Circuit Board Its the actual core of the ECU where the wires from the harness connect to the electronic guts. There are solder connections that connect the plug on the outside to the PCB.
Over time constant heat cycling and vibration can cause the solder joints to crack. Only way to fix it permanently is to open the ecu up an re-solder. Usually its simpler to just get a good used ECU.

Here is an example of the cracking. The green board is the PCB.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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