Stainless steel coolant pipes?

[EverettB]

Locked as there are already several pipe thread in the FAQ, as mentioned earlier.

Sorry this got so long before closing it down...
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[insyncro]

[Jake de Villiers]

The plastic pipes work very well and seem to last forever with zero galvanic problems.
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[pushkick]

what would be the best coolant pipe material titanium? titanium corrodes into a more inert titanium dioxide or nitride. less weight than steel but more than aluminum. aluminum has a higher electron negativity than Ti. maybe an alloy Ti-6Al-4V. should only cost around $30 /ft.
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[vanagonjr]

[Terry Kay]

Just for the sake on converstaion, and food for thought, even though I have broght this electoletical phenomina up to deaf ears in a few prior posts.

Not one nay sayer of stainless pipes has ever addressed the issue of the spinning water pump shaft or impeller-- bolted up tight right onto that aluminum engine case.

if anything is going to create cavitaion this would be the first place to look at.

I have never seen a blown through hole in any VW engine block created by the water pump spinning impeller or shaft.
And this would be the first place I'd be looking at--
Being that any stainless in a cooling system allegidly creates aluminum failure.

This is one of the reasons I think the claims to stainless = cooling system failures are preposterous, & unwarranted.

I'd still very much like to see
the results of the allegid mass engine cooling system failure's caused by stainless anywhere on any aluminum engine.

Lotta theory--no concrete evidence.
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T.K.

[r39o]

[Terry Kay]

Funny thing happend on the way to the forum.

Heads leaked when they sat new on the showroom floor.
Henna pipes.
Heads pitted & leaked using mild steel pipes.
Heads failed & leaked using plastic pipes.
I wouldn't be suprised at all that that stainless pipes will go right along with the flow, and won't stop the heads from leaking either.
Neither will the aluminum pipes---
They'll have post nasal drip just like the rest---

FYI---

It's the nature of the powerplant--the biggest weakness.

So with all that in mind--
Show me a direct result of the preposterous claim's---live , not memorex.

It sure isn't / wasn't the tubing that is causing the problem.

Next ----!!!!
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T.K.

[SL12572]

How is someone going to show you that the direct cause of a corrosion issue was due to stainless coolant pipes? There's way to many variables.

Are you saying galvanic corrosion doesn't exist?

Are you saying that head pitting is not an issue on WBX heads?



Maybe you could offer a warranty with your pipes against corrosion

[Terry Kay]

All I have asked from day one is;
SHOW ME.

I'd sure like to see the long term, concrete results, that nobody else here has witnessed, but yet continually posts Voo-Doo reports on.

I'm from Missouri--

I'm going to make a call to the VC tomorrow.
Ask Chris & Pete how many engine failures they have witnessed.
They sell a lot of stainless pipes.
Surely they have had a Van roll in on a hook with an Aluminum Blob that once was an engine.
Compounded x 2 of the pipes I have sold---I had at least 8 years way ahead of them in pipe sales.
I've seen nothing negative either.
If they report nothing--I'm calling all good in love & war, and that's the end of this conversation as far as I'm concerned---

El Finito.

If the propaganda has scared you into a set of aluminum pipes--good for you.
If the propaganda has scared you into a couple of lengths of black rubber hose & some clamps--another good for you.

The stainless is tough, long lasting, and as far back as I can report on there is not one iota of a thing to fear , but fear itself--and some crazy internet postings of Voo Doo happenings to an aluminum block when using stainless for plumbing.
I haven't seen any back up with all of the claims.
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T.K.

[SL12572]

There is so much back and forth discussion on this topic and I must ask why?

Galvanic corrosion is a problem with dissimilar metals. We already know that head pitting can be an issue on both original and AMC heads.

Frequent coolant changes does help the issue, but not completely. What about the coolant that seeps under blobs of sealant and sits there stagnant? Not even a coolant change will fix this problem.

If you're worried about corrosion:

1. Use aluminum coolant pipes, or a non metal alternative.
2. Properly seal the heads.
3. Change coolant frequently.

T.K. and others will talk until they are blue that stainless pipes will not cause corrosion, but facts are facts. Galvanic corrosion does in fact exist and the more you think about the small things, the less of a headache you will have down the road.


Scott

[Terry Kay]

My 85 GL prior to having the stainless pipes had the mild steel pipes in it ( which rotted and was the test platform for the stainless pipes.).
I saw nothing of significant change in the temp gauge reading when I went to the stainless pipes--winter or summer-samo--samo.
Nothing to rant or rave about anyway.

Thinking about the gentleman who is running green striped hose.
It's a little less expensive when your all done.
However, if you don't periodically change that coolant--your going to be seeing plenty of electroletic galvanic corrosion --regardless.

The old coolant is the demon here--not the vessel's carrying it.
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T.K.

[bluebus86]

thats interesting about the over cooling with the metal pipes. it is good to know as for me, I am building an air cooled type I 2180 cc kit car and i will be plumbing the front mounted oil cooler with 3/4 inch copper plumbing rigid pipe, run under the car. that I figured would help cool the oil in addition to the empi 96 plate cooler.

Of course corrosion ain't an issue with oil. ' just saying, it is good to know you can get some decent cooling from under the car with metal pipes.

[insyncro]

All of the aftermarket options have been listed before...buy what you like
Flush your cooling system on a 2 year or less service interval.
Maybe, maybe in 15-20 years one might be able to show some proof that one material is better than another...IMHO.

The only extra tidbit of info worth adding is that I have seen, on my own Syncro van with thickwall stainless steel pipes and all stock plastic parts removed and replaced with stainless....the van will come up to operating temp at idle as normal, but while driving in brutal winter conditions with snow and ice clinging to the underside of the van...it will run cool and use more fuel to try and stay at its operating temp.
This is actually what the ECU should do when it senses cooler coolant.

Since seeing this I have insulated my cooling system and heater lines.

[syncrodoka]

Why lock it and refer posters to the other threads? Because it is in the rules and a simple search or look in the FAQ will find many threads on the subject.

If you want to dig up a bunch of opinions on the subject they already exist.

It isn't really something that is up for a vote.

[bluebus86]

dont lock it is my vote. this is a good post, and is encouraging a nice debate. Lot of neat info here. If you think you dont need this info, or it upsets you to see others carry on a discussion that they never did before, but you have been involved in in the past, then I suggest you ignore it and allow the interested folks to discuss.

this is very interesting.

don't like? don't read it, whats so hard about that?

[240Gordy]

It is not about the durability of the pipes.

My first thought was, yup, why another thread, lock it.
But why is everyone so quick to shut it down?
I really don't get it.
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[Jake de Villiers]

[jerrydog411]

[syncrodoka]

This thread hasn't been locked yet?
There are already more involved threads on this topic.