Diesel AAZ Intermentent Fuel / Idle Problems

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1. I like to do the simple things first. The stud on the adjuster pulley which is a new part, fits loosely into the hole on the block. The old stud appeared to roll on a glass plate, like there is a slight bend on it. I applied several drops of lock-tite on the stud that threads into the block. The spec calls for a 24 hour waiting period for the lock tite to be firm. I am wondering if that bent stud would be enough to upset the tracking of the timing belt.

2. If the lock tite doesn't work, I could use a "thread insert" if I can find one to fit on the stud, and use the appropriate tap to make the thread insert work. Everybody check your hip pockets to see if you have the "thread insert" in a matrix size Help.

3. I am reading up on the procedures to adjust the IP. Lots of good info on line.

[Orbitald]

So the smaller stud is for the newer tensioner (which I have) where the hub of the tensioner indicates the proper tension. And the bigger stud is for the older tensioner which needs the belt tension gauge.

Is the torque for the smaller stud 15ftlbs?

And the larger stud is 33ftlbs?

Thanks again!

David
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[crazyvwvanman]

There were 2 versions of timing belt tensioner used on the diesel 1.9 family, pre-TDI. The first was just the same simple part from earlier 1.6 diesels but later 1.9 engines have a spring loaded tensioner that does not require any special tool or skill to set the belt tension properly. The new type requires different tinwork to be installed on the engine so they also made it fit a smaller stud to keep it from being improperly fitted to an engine built for the early type.

So a given 1.9 AAZ or 1Y engine can have either size stud, depending on vintage of the motor. Same with Industrial Engine versions.

Mark

[Orbitald]

I think I found the cause of the injector pump alighnemt problem. The top of injector pump bracket attaches to the serpentine bracket. The threaded insert in the serpentine bracket was not fully pressed into the bracket and I believe that made the injection pump bracket twist slightly which caused the belt ride on the outside edge of the IP gear.

Timing Belt Alignment Problem by OrbitalD, on Flickr

Everything is back in place and its running and it sounds / feels really great. The belt is tracking in the middle of the gears and its much quieter than I can ever remember. I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that my injectors were not operating properly too.

I do have another question: the Bently manual I have it states that the nut on the timing belt tensioner pulley be torqued to 33ftlbs. That sure seems like a lot for that small M10XM8X62 stud. I tried torquing to that spec and it crushed a pulley face and I had to get a new one. I re-torqued the new one to 15ftlbs as I saw further back that the 1Z has that much lower spec.

Any input on the proper torque value for the timing belt tensioning pulley nut?

Note that there was a larger stud supplied with the new head but it does not fit through the original timing belt tensioner pulley.

Thanks again!

David
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[Orbitald]

Thanks Andrew!
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[?Waldo?]

The missing bolt in the accessory bracket needs to be replaced, but it doesn't affect the belt tracking.

Belt tracking is affected by rotating the injection pump bracket. To get the belt to track closer to the engine block, remove the injection pump, loosen the three allen head bracket mounting bolts behind it, rotate the bracket CCW (so that the sprocket moves down and the metal lines move up) and tighten it back down. Install the pump and belt and run it through a dozen or so revolutions to see where the tracking ends up. Adjust again as necessary. Make sure it isn't off the front face of the crank sprocket - rubbing on the pulley.

[Orbitald]

I just finished installing my new head and it started up nicely. I had the injectors serviced with new nozzles as the old ones were gummed up somehow (Deltev thought I was running veggie oil). Maybe there was some gunk left in the second hand pump I had previously installed.

Now I am seeing that there is something wrong with my injector pump alignment. As you can see below the timing belt is riding on the outside edge of the IP gear.

Timing Belt Alignment Problem by OrbitalD, on Flickr

Here you can see the IP gear is not aligned with the cam gear. A straight edge on the cam gear touches the far side of the IP gear but leaves a 2mm gap on the near IP gear edge. The pump is mounted flush against the pump bracket and the pump bracket is securely mounted to the block, so I'm guessing the pump bracket is bent.

Timing Belt Alignment Problem by OrbitalD, on Flickr

I'm not sure this is part of the problem but a stud in the back of the serpentine bracket has sheared off. Could this warp the IP bracket?

Timing Belt Alignment Problem by OrbitalD, on Flickr

The IP bracket looks pretty beefy and I cant quite imagine it bending easily but I don't know what else may have caused this problem.

Any ideas?
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[Orbitald]

I was able to draw it together using the head bolts.
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[Orbitald]

I decided to go with the German head and got a pretty good price for a KS Eurospec head from my local shop (Tassis).

I'm trying to install the head but have one question: There is a dowel sleeve in the block that mates to the head. I'm finding some resistance to the head accepting this dowel sleeve. Is that normal? Do I just hit the head with a mallet or draw the head on with the head bolts or?

Thanks!

David R.

Dowel Sleeve keeping head from mating by OrbitalD, on Flickr

New AAZ Head by OrbitalD, on Flickr
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[Orbitald]

I'm trying to find out what "aftermarket" means but the folks at Eurospec are not exactly quick with their replies. I've left them multiple voice messages and it took 3 days for them to answer my first email inquiry.

I sure wish I had the money for a new KS head but I think that if it was an AMC head I might try it as funds are super tight right now.
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[?Waldo?]

Why not the Kolbenschmidt head from Boraparts for $798?

8mm vs. 7mm valves don't really matter. Aftermarket vs. OEM is a bit of a crap shoot. Is the aftermarket head from at least a name brand like AMC or is it a completely generic knock-off made in China with no quality control other than the consumer?

[MarkWard]

I have seen aftermarket castings of VW cylinder heads. They appear to be missing some quality. Personally for a reliable street machine, the 8mm valve stems appeal to me as well. Your call in the end. If money is tight, go for the aftermarket one and see how it does. Report back your findings. If it does not live up to your expectations, just think how much quicker the job will go the next time now that you have done it once.

[Orbitald]

Question: eurospec has two options for this head:

"Yes, they are the exact same head as the BX.

The difference between the two heads is one is an aftermarket and the other is a KS head. However, at this time the only KS heads we have in stock have 8mm valve stems (1mm bigger than stock) so they are actually $895.00. The aftermarket head is still the $495.00 you see on the site."

Is there a major reason to avoid the "aftermarket" head?
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[MarkWard]

To add what Andrew said, you can check the piston height with a straight edge and a decent feeler blade set. Set a "clean" piston at TDC and set a straight edge across the piston top. Now take your feeler blade and slip between the straight edge and a "clean" portion of the block. The blade that fits the best is your "measurement". If your blades are on in thousandths, you can multiply by 25.4 and that will convert to mm. Then check the manual for which range you are in. This is the poor man's way to do it. Idealy you'd have some better tools for making this measurement. It is better than not checking at all.

You can do this for all 4 pistons if you want to get carried away. One that is not in the range of the others could indicate something is wrong, i.e. bent rod. I think a complete head if quality would be the way to go too. markw

[Orbitald]

Thanks Andrew!

One of the suppliers I'm considering (in Gilroy) list two types of AAZ heads available.

028 103 265 DRB 1.9L Turbo Cylinder Head, (AAZ)
028 103 265 DOERB 1.9L Turbo Cylinder Head, (AAZ)

I cant find any reference to these two terms; DRB and DOERB. Might someone know what they refer to?
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[?Waldo?]

Yes, the 2-hole should be correct. I personally like to measure to be sure. Also, I would add that the correct head gasket is to establish the correct distance between the head and the piston when at TDC. This certainly affects compression as you noted, but also affects 'squish' which establishes proper turbulence (probably not all that important to the IDIs) but also 'quench' which is the term for the transfer of a large amount of heat from the piston crown to the water-cooled cylinder head during the degrees it is near TDC. Quench is greatly affected by the head gasket thickness and fitting one too thick will cause the pistons to run hot. Running a gasket too thin risks the pistons contacting the valves.

[Orbitald]

I guess I found a answer to one of my questions: Does anybody know what is the mm designation for?

Its for the thickness. And from this thread its important:
forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3099455-Diesel-Turbo-Diesel-headgasket-upgrade-(1.9TD-headgasket)

"Diesel engines use three different headgasket thickness calculated from the factory to provide the required compression ratio. The reason for this is to compensate for the slightly different manufacturing tolerances between engines. Slapping on a thinner HG is not a good idea as it could result in your pistons headbutting your valves."

So I'm guessing I use the same two hole head gasket to maintain the same distance.

D
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[Orbitald]

Thanks everybody for your help.

Looks like I'm searching for a new head. Turns out the part number for a complete ADE head is the same as for the AAZ head.

But I do have a question about the head gaskets as I see that there are three types of head gaskets available for the AAZ and ADE. The head gaskets are listed and sold as either:

1 hole -1.53mm
2 hole - 1.57mm
3 hole - 1.61mm

Mine is a 2 hole version.

Does anybody know what is the mm designation for?

And does the head gasket follow the original (block) or the new head?

Thanks!

David
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'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing

[?Waldo?]

Boraparts has new OEM AAZ heads for sale complete with valves, lifters and cam for $800.

http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_27_83_128&products_id=32

[johnnygreenham]

You definitely have a few major issues. I'm always looking at the positives when fixing things. It's also my job to get things working when they are broke but sometimes you have to weight the benefits to potential risk. The head will still work as long as it didn't crack. If you run your finger nail along the inside below the score line and it is still a perfect polish then the lifter will operate. Tidy the top up and make sure there isn't anything that would score and jam the lifter. The question is this, If you ran it with parts that aren't being supported or guided like they should be to compensate for the immense stresses these components are under, what is the worst care scenario and what is the most likely bad scenario. On the bright side, you go away without damaging your bottom half/block/pistons etc. Just your head was damaged so it could have been at lot more expensive. Next time it may be more expensive. I have no idea what your budget is or how much you have to spend. It looks like the head is pretty damaged and a full new head would let you sleep at night.

I know with my current engine build, I've had a few sleepless nights and it sucks