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bnam
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2006
Posts: 3472
Location: El Dorado Hills CA/ Bangalore, India
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 Posted: Wed Oct 09, 2024 10:04 am Post subject: |
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| Cusser wrote: |
FRONT WINDOW SCRAPER
Remove outside scraper. Lower window completely. Remove old inside scraper. Using two people, attach lower lip into groove starting at rear of window, sliding replacement scraper forward as you go using
1 x 4 inch piece of sheet metal with 1/4 inch lip and screwdrivers. When lower lip is in and rubber fully forward to the vent window, pull on upper lip and place into groove. Replace outer scraper. Use baby powder on upper portion of scraper (inside and outside) to reduce "grab" onto window when lowering.
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I found that to replace just the inside scraper, you don’t need to remove the outside scraper. And that instead of sliding the inside scraper from the rear, you can get hook it in into place with a plastic tool.
https://youtu.be/tapY6sPoljY?si=i8IQXZbOaQDkYbmz
_________________
1971 1302LS Convertible (RHD) owned since '74
Click to view image
1965 Karmann Ghia Coupe - under restoration
1966 Fiat 1500 Cabrio (with 1600 Twin cam)
1952 Citroen TA 11BL |
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robxlii
Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2023
Posts: 12
Location: Southeastern CT
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| Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:16 am Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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I replaced the felt channel on my passenger door, which was missing entirely, and assumed I'd be replacing the driver door one as well, but -- you're right. The fitment of the new channel is too tight and it makes raising and lowering the window impossible, even with perfectly clean and greased gearing. I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet -- take it out and live with the gap and rattle, or try to coax and cajole it into loosening up a bit.
If you're doing the scrapers as well...yeah. Also difficult to replace, fitment is never perfect!
Let me know if I can answer any other questions -- I've been messing with my doors and windows for several months. |
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67conv
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2005
Posts: 453
Location: Simi Valley, California
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| Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2024 9:14 am Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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^ Thanks for the reply! ^
Looks like I'll likely be doing the same procedure on mine. My intent was to remove the vent window frame, door window, and the winder from the door for paint prep. That would include a "possible" felt channel replacement also. I suppose I COULD attempt to carefully mask around the vent frame, and just avoid the whole 2 way screw surgical extraction step.
I've read many nightmare stories about the current state of affairs regarding aftermarket felt channel strips and not fitting correctly (too tight for the glass). So naturally, I must ask how the felt strips turned out in your frame. I'm thinking I'll just leave mine as they are, since they're original and have minimal wear. They are faded around the outer edges, but a little 'touch up' with black Rit dye on a fine brush or a black Sharpie should take care of that.. I fear having to destroy those felts to remove them, only to have the new replacements not fit and bind the glass.
_________________
1967 VW Convertible, owned 35 years.
1957 DKW 3=6, owned 21 years.
PREVIOUS: 1972 "Baja Champion SE" Spec. Edition Beetle bought NEW @ Pierce VW in Denver; 1979 Super Beetle Convertible bought NEW @ Downtown LA VW; 1967 type 1 savanna beige; 1967 Porsche 2.0 911S; 1973 Porsche 2.4 911T; 1963 356 T6 B Cabriolet; 1964 356 SC sunroof coupe; 1972 Type-3 Squareback; 1968 + 1969 Type-3 Fastbacks; 1987 Vanagon GL Weekender |
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robxlii
Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2023
Posts: 12
Location: Southeastern CT
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| Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2024 1:20 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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| Quote: |
Were you ever able to come up with any answers or solutions to getting that diabolical rusted "double adjustment bolt" loosened or out, holding the vent frame to the bottom of the door? I have the exact same issue and I just saw your post from a few months ago tonight. I'm very curious as to what you ultimately tried doing, as you said you tried all the usual approaches to no avail...
Did you wind up having to grind or 'bore' it out as you said you might have to do? I'm faced with the same frustrating situation tonight..
Any updates much appreciated! |
Oh, I'm so sorry I'm just seeing this now. Remarkably, after using all those methods, I did end up boring it out, but just slightly smaller than the two-way screw. Then I got a threader/tap the same size as that screw, carefully threaded the drill hole, and was able to reattach the screw as smoothly as if it had just been machined.
If I had to do it again, though, I'd probably soak the whole assembly in penetrating oil overnight, and then try like hell to get it out with a reverse threaded tap. Or cut the whole thing off and weld on a new piece.
It's not an easy task. Good luck! |
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67conv
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2005
Posts: 453
Location: Simi Valley, California
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| Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2024 9:28 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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| robxlii wrote: |
I've got a problem I can't solve, and I'd love some help. Despite the prescient advice to be careful when undoing the double adjustment bolt that holds the vent frame in the bottom of the door, I wrecked mine. Tried penetrating oil, blowtorch, screw extractor, and finally I've exhausted my options. I'm thinking I'm just going to bore the thing out and figure out a way to fasten it once it's back in the door. But if anyone has any better ideas, please shout 'em out!
All this to install a new felt channel, by the way... |
Were you ever able to come up with any answers or solutions to getting that diabolical rusted "double adjustment bolt" loosened or out, holding the vent frame to the bottom of the door? I have the exact same issue and I just saw your post from a few months ago tonight. I'm very curious as to what you ultimately tried doing, as you said you tried all the usual approaches to no avail...
Did you wind up having to grind or 'bore' it out as you said you might have to do? I'm faced with the same frustrating situation tonight..
Any updates much appreciated!
_________________
1967 VW Convertible, owned 35 years.
1957 DKW 3=6, owned 21 years.
PREVIOUS: 1972 "Baja Champion SE" Spec. Edition Beetle bought NEW @ Pierce VW in Denver; 1979 Super Beetle Convertible bought NEW @ Downtown LA VW; 1967 type 1 savanna beige; 1967 Porsche 2.0 911S; 1973 Porsche 2.4 911T; 1963 356 T6 B Cabriolet; 1964 356 SC sunroof coupe; 1972 Type-3 Squareback; 1968 + 1969 Type-3 Fastbacks; 1987 Vanagon GL Weekender |
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robxlii
Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2023
Posts: 12
Location: Southeastern CT
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| Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2023 10:42 am Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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This entire thread has been massively helpful as I try to recondition all four windows on my 77 convertible. Really spot on -- thanks to everyone who's shared their headaches and successes.
I've got a problem I can't solve, and I'd love some help. Despite the prescient advice to be careful when undoing the double adjustment bolt that holds the vent frame in the bottom of the door, I wrecked mine. Tried penetrating oil, blowtorch, screw extractor, and finally I've exhausted my options. I'm thinking I'm just going to bore the thing out and figure out a way to fasten it once it's back in the door. But if anyone has any better ideas, please shout 'em out!
All this to install a new felt channel, by the way... |
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Barney the Bug
Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Atlanta
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| Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2022 2:51 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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I forgot about this post thanks for getting back to me
I'll try some more adjustments and see what that does
Using talc will help with the window sliding up/down on the rubber scrapers
Thanks again
That looks normal to me. When completely lowered the window goes below the rubber and the rubber pops back out over the trim. If that's as low as you go, you will need to adjust the window so it lowers further. There's a adj on the regulator for setting how high the window rolls up or down. Putting some talc on the rubber will also help it slide
Personally I never lower the window all the way to save wear and tear on the scraper so if my arm is resting on the door it's sitting on the top of the window trim not the scraper[/quote][/quote] |
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bruehoyt
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2008
Posts: 181
Location: Columbus, OH
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Barney the Bug
Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Atlanta
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| Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2022 12:54 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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This is my same issue but I don't see any explanation on how to adjust the rear window. Anyone know of some previous threads on how to adjust?
| BWingate wrote: |
A little review and some guesswork and I figured it out: The rear bolt in the image below is used to adjust the for and aft position of the roll-up window.
I loosened it up, shoved the window forward and tightened up back up and got this:
Not the best picture - sorry. The problem was not all with the adjustment of the windows - the seal between the front and rear windows was out of the track some, so I reset that, and everything works better with both windows rolled up just a little less than all the way up.
There are still some issues with the windows "flopping" in and out and with the height adjustment of the roll-up windows - I would like them to go all the way down easily and to lower the upper limit just a bit - but for now this is a 100% better than before. |
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Barney the Bug
Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Atlanta
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| Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2022 12:43 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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Does anyone know if there are directions on how to adjust the rear windows. When one of the rear window is rolled fully up its not flush at the top where it meets the front window its slightly bowed out about 1/2 inch. This is a 78 SB Vert. Can it be adjusted ? if so How? Or do you think I need to buy a new regulator. The other rear window on the pass side is perfect.
| BUGGED11111 wrote: |
| SteveK wrote: |
I'm having trouble with the chrome trim piece across the top of my windows--it pulls in the scrapers as it lowers last 1/2" into the door. Result is that the scraper edge that usually points straight up is pulled down 180 degrees and pointing straight at the ground. Are these scrapers hopelessly soft and or deformed, so need to be replaced?
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That looks normal to me. When completely lowered the window goes below the rubber and the rubber pops back out over the trim. If that's as low as you go, you will need to adjust the window so it lowers further. There's a adj on the regulator for setting how high the window rolls up or down. Putting some talc on the rubber will also help it slide
Personally I never lower the window all the way to save wear and tear on the scraper so if my arm is resting on the door it's sitting on the top of the window trim not the scraper |
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JREDC
Samba Member
Joined: October 23, 2021
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2021 12:06 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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Even though this is an old post, it is still very relevant for someone installing windows. I am restoring my father's 77 Super Beetle Convertible. These forums have helped however there needs to be an update for installing or uninstalling the passenger and driver side windows on a 77 Convertible.
I have spent HOURS probably 12 or more trying to figure this out. It has been totally frustrating and I'm glad none of my neighbors heard me or they would think I was a sailor.
Here are necessary updates to this forum.
1. As stated in another post, The vent window would not come out up as it needs to be moved backward to pull up and out. But can't be moved back until the glass is removed.
2. Due to the side impact door reinforcement of the 77, the regulator will NOT slide backwards enough to disconnect the regulator plastic guides from the window track channels.
Here's what I discovered:
You MUST first unbolt the rear plastic guide from the regulator. Then pull the rear of the regulator arm towards the outside of the door to disengage the bolt from the regulator arm. You will then be able to crank the regulator into a position where you can remove the rear plastic guide from the track channel at the bottom of the window. With the rear guide removed you can then crank the window to a position where you can now remove the front guide from the window track. You can then follow all the other steps posted.
Installation will be the same procedure.
I hope this helps alleviate the frustration that I went through
James R |
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bosco0633
Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2009
Posts: 87
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| Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 11:49 am Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
Step 6
*On the rear edge of the door, pop off the plastic cap towards the top and remove the 10mm bolt that secures the rear window guide in the door. ( I suggest doing this before you remove the door glass.)
Step 10
*Remove the rubber bit at the rear edge of the door window opening. It is held on by a small #1 Phillips screw. Odds are high it may be missing! Replacements are easily obtained.
(White Arrow)
Dave |
I would appreciate any input on parts for step 6 and 10.
I can't seem to find what cap to order for this 10mm bolt hole. I ordered two sets of door hole plugs and none of them seem big enough.
On step 10, the piece of rubber seal that is screwed in between the two scrapers, I am unable to find that as well. Can you please link me to what I am looking for.
I have ordered a few things without being able to narrow in what they actually are.
Thanks in advance
Ryan |
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Mich3
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2013
Posts: 44
Location: Orange County
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| Posted: Fri May 15, 2020 8:04 am Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| Mich3 wrote: |
Thanks Cusser,
I'm thinking that the seal lip that goes into the groove is too large (see pic): do you remember something like that? |
I did mine a long time ago, and do not remember them being too large. I doubt I ever looked at them as closely as you did. But since I had to get a helper (which is quite rare for me), must've taken some effort.
Warming the rubber insert slightly "may" make it more pliable. Since suppliers were zero help (same as when I inquired), and these inserts are not overly expensive, I won't tell anyone if you shave the insert a little narrower. Lube well with glycerin, dish detergent-water mix, KY, anything that can be washed off with water.
Curious: did you purchase West Coast Metric seals? Because if their inserts are trouble to install, they should be contacted. |
We got them from JBugs and I will let them know for sure. After trying everything you are also suggesting, including the dip in boiling water, I ended up shaving both sides of the lip and my son and I were able to slip one on. Still a workout! Over the weekend we'll complete the rest of the top seals. |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33144
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Fri May 15, 2020 7:22 am Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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| Mich3 wrote: |
Thanks Cusser,
I'm thinking that the seal lip that goes into the groove is too large (see pic): do you remember something like that? |
I did mine a long time ago, and do not remember them being too large. I doubt I ever looked at them as closely as you did. But since I had to get a helper (which is quite rare for me), must've taken some effort.
Warming the rubber insert slightly "may" make it more pliable. Since suppliers were zero help (same as when I inquired), and these inserts are not overly expensive, I won't tell anyone if you shave the insert a little narrower. Lube well with glycerin, dish detergent-water mix, KY, anything that can be washed off with water.
Curious: did you purchase West Coast Metric seals? Because if their inserts are trouble to install, they should be contacted.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Mich3
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2013
Posts: 44
Location: Orange County
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| Posted: Thu May 14, 2020 3:45 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| Mich3 wrote: |
Awesome thread (as usual) and very helpful.
Has anyone struggled replacing the upright seals in the quarter windows of the vert? The rubber seems too large for the chrome channel and I tried lubricant spray as well as vaseline to only insert an inch or so over 1 hour fight. |
I wrote these instructions for myself when I did my 1971 convertible seals, maybe 20 years ago:
Remove small phillips screw and rectangular plate near bottom of seal. Slide down old seal. Lubricate frame channel and replacement rubber seal lip well with glycerine and push up into frame (note: this might require two people). Wash off excess glycerine with water. The screw is about 11.5mm up from the bottom of the frame; drill a hole thru the seal at that place, slide up small rectangular bracket, and re-install screw (it's head will pierce the outer part of the seal). |
Thanks Cusser,
I'm thinking that the seal lip that goes into the groove is too large (see pic): do you remember something like that?
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33144
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Wed May 13, 2020 1:53 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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| Mich3 wrote: |
Awesome thread (as usual) and very helpful.
Has anyone struggled replacing the upright seals in the quarter windows of the vert? The rubber seems too large for the chrome channel and I tried lubricant spray as well as vaseline to only insert an inch or so over 1 hour fight. |
I wrote these instructions for myself when I did my 1971 convertible seals, maybe 20 years ago:
Remove small phillips screw and rectangular plate near bottom of seal. Slide down old seal. Lubricate frame channel and replacement rubber seal lip well with glycerine and push up into frame (note: this might require two people). Wash off excess glycerine with water. The screw is about 11.5mm up from the bottom of the frame; drill a hole thru the seal at that place, slide up small rectangular bracket, and re-install screw (it's head will pierce the outer part of the seal).
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Mich3
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2013
Posts: 44
Location: Orange County
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| Posted: Wed May 13, 2020 9:21 am Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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Awesome thread (as usual) and very helpful.
Has anyone struggled replacing the upright seals in the quarter windows of the vert? The rubber seems too large for the chrome channel and I tried lubricant spray as well as vaseline to only insert an inch or so over 1 hour fight. |
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JoeyBagaDonutz
Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2016
Posts: 41
Location: Cape Cod
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 10:28 am Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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Ya, the cage around the captive nut rots out and the nut spins....its a PITA for sure to get another nut in there!....I knew you'd get the window out one way or the other haha
_________________
1967 Beetle Sedan
1971 Super Beetle Vert
1971 Super Beetle Vert
1971 Karmann Ghia Vert |
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johnpernock
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Paoli, PA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 7:36 am Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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| JoeyBagaDonutz wrote: |
Ok, I've found that by moving the regulator up or down inside the door the slides will move left or right.....its just a matter of moving it around till they line up. sometimes I leave one screw in as a pivot point and crank the window up or down to see which way it moves, then push it some more. It will line up to pop the window off the track if you get it in the right position.
Joey |
So I got the window out, Ironically the window glass was just sitting in the mechanism piece and when I drove it, I was able to wiggle it out. It seems fine now.
Ironically... I had to drive it like that because I needed a socket for my audi already on the lift getting new brakes... One problem solved another.
I had issues getting the vent window out as the nut just spun in the door so I had to dremel it out and I got a long pair of curved needle nose pliers to get a nut up in there and just secure it from the bottom this time. Otherwise it was a breeze to get the seals in. Just some WD-40 and some Vaseline on the seal but its perfect so far. Now to do the drivers side... I messed up my door cards removing them so Im also waiting for new ones to come in the mail at this point.
Thank you all for your help on this... |
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Amermel
Samba Member
Joined: July 04, 2017
Posts: 16
Location: Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2020 3:29 pm Post subject: Re: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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I ran into the same problem and could not get the method shown to work.
I ended up removing the clips on the slides, and pulling apart the slides. With the regulator loosened, just push the regulator back on the regulator and there was enough room to disconnect the regulator.
I did end up purchasing new slide kits (they seem unreasonably expensive at $22.00), as the old clips got chewed up during removal, and the new clips have holes that make it easy to install the clips if you have c-clip pliers. Probably could have just purchased new c-clips... |
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