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SCZ9-1-1 Samba Member

Joined: May 20, 2003 Posts: 716 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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| I need this post thanks |
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SolarPoweredPickles Samba Member

Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 1289 Location: California
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Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:11 am Post subject: |
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| durfeec wrote: |
| If you are gonna go super low like you said, the stock shocks wont work well. You'll be bottoming them out all of the time if you could even get them to work without bottomed out just sitting there. I mean you're taking 6"+ out of your suspension. A shock designed to travel at a stock height is not gonna work at 6" lower. The Empi part number I posted earlier is a good cheap oil shock that is smaller than stock. |
Good point, the ones you're using sound good to me. It's a little while before I place the order but those will probably be the ticket!
Where the link pins peak out the torsion arm, is there any type of cap or something to hold/protect them? Other than the nut and bolt that go through each one? |
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durfeec Samba Member

Joined: May 03, 2010 Posts: 1279 Location: Mio, MI
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Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:41 pm Post subject: |
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If you are gonna go super low like you said, the stock shocks wont work well. You'll be bottoming them out all of the time if you could even get them to work without bottomed out just sitting there. I mean you're taking 6"+ out of your suspension. A shock designed to travel at a stock height is not gonna work at 6" lower. The Empi part number I posted earlier is a good cheap oil shock that is smaller than stock. _________________ 1960 Bus Panel/Camper |
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SolarPoweredPickles Samba Member

Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 1289 Location: California
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Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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| grey60 wrote: |
| electronictofu wrote: |
| Cool, I'll shoot Nate an email at Wagenswest and ask what's up with the spacer. I'll get my tie rods and such put on in the meantime before chopping a section of this spacer off. Good to know, maybe I'll throw these KYBs on the back since Ive only ordered 2 so far. What type of oil shock did you go with? |
Following this with interest since you and I are at about the same point in reassembly. My beam, likewise, is from Nate, and I have a pair of those same shocks. And I got the same BBT link pin kit from WW!
So of course I have the same question about weird angle the shock sits with that long boss pushing it out at the top of the beam
### Later edit:
Actually, not the same kit from WW. Mine is 211498041, for <63 and yours is the >63 version. Same conclusion about not using all contents of the kit, though. |
Nice!
I emailed Nate, he got back pretty quick. He said their beams shock mounts are higher, so a stock shock, or a basic KYB would fit (Non Gas I am assuming) He said the shock does lean out to clear the frame rail. I'll put these KYB's on the back. Not sure what I'll order for the front yet, maybe just the stock shocks... |
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grey60 Samba Member

Joined: May 29, 2013 Posts: 172 Location: Texas
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Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:16 am Post subject: |
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| electronictofu wrote: |
| Cool, I'll shoot Nate an email at Wagenswest and ask what's up with the spacer. I'll get my tie rods and such put on in the meantime before chopping a section of this spacer off. Good to know, maybe I'll throw these KYBs on the back since Ive only ordered 2 so far. What type of oil shock did you go with? |
Following this with interest since you and I are at about the same point in reassembly. My beam, likewise, is from Nate, and I have a pair of those same shocks. And I got the same BBT link pin kit from WW!
So of course I have the same question about weird angle the shock sits with that long boss pushing it out at the top of the beam
### Later edit:
Actually, not the same kit from WW. Mine is 211498041, for <63 and yours is the >63 version. Same conclusion about not using all contents of the kit, though. _________________ 1960 grey panel |
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type21f Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2007 Posts: 25 Location: EDINBURGH
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Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 12:33 pm Post subject: 20mm link pin bearings |
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Really interesting thread....but I was searching for information on needle bearing suppliers.
I have a set of new 20mm link pins less one bearing!
Sorry If i have crashed your thread! |
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durfeec Samba Member

Joined: May 03, 2010 Posts: 1279 Location: Mio, MI
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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Empi 9650, and KYB 344068 meausre:
Expanded - 14 5/8"
Collapsed - 9 5/8"
Has 12mm bolt holes and bolts-on to VW
I used the Empi ones for the front and the KYBs for the rear on my bus. There are tons of choices but a big thing for lowering if you wanna go super low is that you aren't bottoming out your shocks all of the time. They will blow super fast that way. I was pretty low, couldn't get a 2x4 under the trimmed cradle. I never blew a shock with this set up. This thread has some different shocks.
http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4491&highlight= _________________ 1960 Bus Panel/Camper |
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SolarPoweredPickles Samba Member

Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 1289 Location: California
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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Cool, I'll shoot Nate an email at Wagenswest and ask what's up with the spacer. I'll get my tie rods and such put on in the meantime before chopping a section of this spacer off. Good to know, maybe I'll throw these KYBs on the back since Ive only ordered 2 so far. What type of oil shock did you go with? Are those the Bilsteins?
I do plan on raising the steering box, the further I get into this build the lower I imagine it sitting, so... yeah pretty dang slammed, with 4" welded drop spindles and an adjustable 4" narrowed beam it's pretty much setup for that |
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durfeec Samba Member

Joined: May 03, 2010 Posts: 1279 Location: Mio, MI
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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Just measure what you need to get the shock close to straight and cut what is needed off that spacer. There is no other way around it. Contact the beam builder. I'm not sure why they made the spacer so long anyways. Unless they made it for a different shock that is suppose to slip over the spacer but that would limit you to their shock.
Do you plan on slamming this to the ground or just lowered a bit? Personally, I loved my 4" beam with oil shocks in the front and gas KYBs in the rear. _________________ 1960 Bus Panel/Camper |
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SolarPoweredPickles Samba Member

Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 1289 Location: California
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Yipe! They are GR2 KYB's
I haven't bought any for the back yet, if they suck I'll swap them once I get driving. Or return them before they're used!
The spacer is built into the beam, I think I get what you're saying, and from looking at it there is no way to bring the lower part of the shock outward, so the top would have to go further in to make it straight. Meaning, I cut that section off the beam itself? Sounds scary, I'll wait until Im sure
Sorry if this is getting off subject too much to any moderators
Appreciate all the help so far, super helpful. I'll owe some beers after all this is said and done  |
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durfeec Samba Member

Joined: May 03, 2010 Posts: 1279 Location: Mio, MI
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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You need to get rid of the spacer at the top of the shock on the beam. The shock needs to rid straight up and down for it to work properly. You may have to cut the cover off the top of the shock so it doesn't hit anything.
You have a 4" narrowed beam? If so I hope those aren't gas shocks.. It'll be a rough ride if they are.  _________________ 1960 Bus Panel/Camper |
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SolarPoweredPickles Samba Member

Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 1289 Location: California
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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Boooodacious
It feels good getting new spindles and such put on.
I may start a new thread and do some new research at this point. I did a rough fit of the shocks. Although I don't think these shims are used? (these came with the KYBs) And the bolt kit I bought separate which came with curved washers, also not seeing how these would be used. I'll be looking into this on a new thread and searchin' the manual wasn't much help at this point.
Im hoping when the shock bolts are torqued it doesn't look so funky?
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durfeec Samba Member

Joined: May 03, 2010 Posts: 1279 Location: Mio, MI
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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The only time you cannot use link pin caps is when you flip your spindles. They don't fit anymore. You use them because you have welded spindles. _________________ 1960 Bus Panel/Camper |
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SolarPoweredPickles Samba Member

Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 1289 Location: California
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks again for all the help! Im mounting these puppies on today. Will post some photos soon. I can't remember, do the link pin caps go on a 65'? I thought someone said they don't. They press in pretty easily if so. |
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BarryL  Samba Member

Joined: November 01, 2004 Posts: 15458 Location: Casa de Oro, California
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Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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| electronictofu wrote: |
| I'm holding you reasponsoble BarryL |
I'll take the blame. Just go ahead and file it smooth.
All those do is go up and down through only a small degree of motion. There are multiple long rollers to carry and disperse the load. Then there are 4 to share the bus' load on them.
Good job btw. Be sure to swing the spindles fully stop-to-stop as you pressure lube them. |
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durfeec Samba Member

Joined: May 03, 2010 Posts: 1279 Location: Mio, MI
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Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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| zozo wrote: |
| If it were me, I'd carefully smooth it off. |
x2. Wont be hard either as I believe the part you dented is the bronze bushing? _________________ 1960 Bus Panel/Camper |
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zozo Samba Member

Joined: October 15, 2005 Posts: 5216 Location: South of Ol' San Antonio
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Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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| If it were me, I'd carefully smooth it off. |
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SolarPoweredPickles Samba Member

Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 1289 Location: California
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Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:45 am Post subject: |
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All done!
Before bolting them on....
As I mentioned above, when I hammered in the bushings the outter lip of one of them "folded in" a tiny bit. When I pushed in the needle bearings they went in from one side but wouldn't come out the other because of the lip. They obviously don't need to come out from the other side but I want to make sure that little lip wont be riding against the pins or scraping. It turns freely and smooth, and where this little metal issue on the lip seems to lay where the plastic part of the needle bearing is, so I don't think it would pose an issue.
Good insurance to hit it with a file? Or just don't ef with it? I'm thinking it's fine as is, just a tweaker at times  |
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SolarPoweredPickles Samba Member

Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 1289 Location: California
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Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome, thanks for all the help on this little project all.
I finished one side, It's too cold outside to finish up, plus I'm throwing the bearings in the freezer over night. The heating of spindles and freezing of bearings method worked wonders.
The first bearing I just went for it and the lip of the bearing took a TINY bit of a dent on the lip. Wondering if that should be filed down. |
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IN2RUST Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2005 Posts: 1942 Location: West Coast
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Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 9:02 am Post subject: |
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Before I had a press, I used a flat faced sledge and set the races on top where the grease galley needed to go, I then placed some flat stock on top carefully and a good "Whack", it should set in place. I then used the old race to finish putting it in its place. It was pretty easy, but a press is the way to go and a good investment. Good luck. _________________ RUSTFARMER....I like anything old and rusty! |
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