Air Conditioner System Upgrades: Hoses, condenser, etc.

[26kick]

[korfmach]

Upgraded my non-functioning factory system this past spring and summer. I decided to commit to R134a as it's still widely available and shops don't immediately turn you down if you need a recharge.

The old R12 compressor was roached--leaking from the main seal and making a lot of racket. I got a Sanden 4434, same as the one advertised by GoWesty and others, but purchased from a truck supplier for about half the price.

OEM condenser went out, new parallel flow condenser from GoWesty went in. Also replaced the air drier.

I kept the OEM evaporator and expansion valve as they seemed to be in good shape. Cleaned out both with some magic AC solvent from AutoZone.

The hoses proved to be the most challenging part. The OEM R12 hoses are not thought to be compatible with R134a, so I took 'em all down to the local Parker Hanafin store for duplication as they've done (unrelated) work for me in the past. This was a mistake. They needed a month and several trips by me to return non-fitting or incorrectly configured hoses; they finally had to outshop the HP line from the drier to the evaporator because they couldn't find the right fitting for the pressure sensor. $700 later I finally had the right items...I recommend just taking the hoses to a specialist AC shop as it will be faster and less expensive. Sourced the O-rings from NAPA.

All the other components (relays, wiring, thermocouple, pressure sensor) were OK and I re-used them.

I put it all together a few weeks ago and charged it with cans of R134a from a FLAPS. After all that effort and $, it works well. We have had a VERY hot summer here in the Front Range, and the 45-50 deg (F) delta has made a middday trip through downtown Denver tolerable if not actually enjoyable.

A few observations: this is not a project for those with limited time or financial resources. There's nothing super complicated or technical, but it takes a lot of time and attention to detail...and if you take shortcuts, it won't work. Get the best quality components you can find, research the procedure, acquire the right tools (especially a 19mm open-end wrench). Keep everything as clean as possible. Take photos and document as you disassemble the system as it's not necessarily obvious how it all goes back together. This is particularly true of the headbanger box with the evaporator and fans.

The hose attachments on the compressor head of the 4434 I bought were 90 degrees off of the OEM. This was not consequential as there's still plenty of clearance to attach the LP (inlet) hose. I re-used the OEM hard line to attach the LP hose; this fitting required a little filing, as did the compressor mounting lugs. Kind of a PITA but not a big deal.

Even though it would be expensive, I would probably farm this out to a shop if I had it to do over. It's a lot of work, there are many opportunities for inobvious mistakes that can bugger the project, and it consumed several weekends for which I had better uses. I'm very happy with the result though--do it if you have the time and (fairly modest) skills needed.
_________________
1989 Westy, "La Barchetta Rosa" (Rosy)
2022 ID.4, "Ivy"

Gone, but not forgotten:
2016 Golf TSI
1974 Dorper Baywindow, "The Bleeding Trout"
1998 Jetta TDI, "Trixie"
1987 GTI, "Heike"
1974 Thing, "The Luftwaffel"
1974 Ghia
1966 Ghia

[pbrown]

[vanis13]

[dhaavers]

^^^ Nice find!



- Dave
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86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[mood]

I recently changed the condenser on my '87 to a universal 16x22 parallel flow condenser from Nostalgic AC parts.
These condensers can obtained cheaply if you have the part number. They are made by UAC, the part number is CN 22131PFC.
They are available from Rockauto for one half of what I paid:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/uac,CN22131PFC,a/c+condenser,6708

[vanis13]

[DeLvxe]

[vanis13]

[DeLvxe]

I’m starting to revive the A/C in my 1991 with a 2000 EJ25 motor. The van originally had factory A/C, but the previous owner didn’t reconnect it during the engine swap. The system has been open for over 10 years.

My plan:
1. Flush the evaporator
2. Install a new expansion valve
3. Install a new receiver/drier
4. Install a new condenser
5. Replace all hoses and fittings using the EZ-Clip system
6. Install a “new” compressor
7. Charge with R-134a refrigerant

Right now, I’m working on hose routing so I can order the correct hoses and fittings, and I’d like feedback on the plan.

In the photo, you can see the aluminum fittings and hard lines coming off the compressor. I plan to cut these lines and weld on threaded fittings, transitioning to EZ-Clip hoses and fittings for the rest of the system.

Proposed routing:

High pressure line (fuchsia in diagram): Run around the back of the motor to the driver’s side, then follow the original path to the condenser. Concern: This route might interfere with fuel lines or contact the hot intake manifold.

Low pressure line (orange in diagram): Run across the rearmost part of the engine bay.

I’m looking for advice on whether this routing makes sense and how to avoid heat or clearance issues.

_________________
1991 manual camper with EJ25

[Busfixer]

Thanks Dart - should save a chunk of change! Busfixer

[dart330]

[Busfixer]

Good Morning All -

Here’s some info on my 1988 Westy ac system. I rebuilt it 2 years ago and installed all new 134a orings, a GoWesty parallel flow condensor, and a Four Seasons Sanden 709 clone compressor. Flushed the original hoses and equipment with spray can BrakeCleen followed immediately by compressed air until dry. Did not have to drop evaporator cabinet but it was difficult to undo/tighten fittings. Used Craftsman “shorty” wrenches with another wrench “hooked” onto the closed end. Reused original orifice fitting as recommended on previous pages - cleaned with BrakeCleen. Pulled overnight vacuum with Harbor Freight vac pump. All the visible water vapor comes out in the first minute out here in our 10% humidity climate. Charged ac system. Result: blows cold 40 degree air like a champ!

Here is some data from 1998 when Mom & Dad had the Blue Bus: data measured same day after ac service from Western Auto 8/22/98 - 85 F ambient temp, 40-45 F ac temp at vents, 10% humidity, 30” ambient air pressure, 45# suction (low side), 230# discharge (high side), idle rpm’s (+/- 900 rpm). Original refrigerant as factory equipped.

I will replace original hoses pretty soon. Looks like Vanaru has a complete hose kit with identical length and factory style fittings. Pricey but looks like the easiest route for DIY.

Thanks, Busfixer

[vanis13]

[TDavidson14]

Lots of great info in here, almost too much haha. I have an 87 syncro that I bought last year and AC was not working. This crazy Florida summer I decided to try and do something about it and started with someone converting to the R134a. Did that and the compressor is going bad.

Found this tread and think I am going to go with the Sanden 4434,GW is selling the same one and found it much cheaper else where. Also looks like this has oil already in it. My current compressor has vertical mounting for hoses while this new 4434 looks like it’s horizontal. How do I know which hose goes into which slot on the new horizontal?

While I am at it, I figured I change my condenser to the GW High Efficiency A/C Condenser and see if that helps get it cooler as well.

Probably change the A/C Expansion Valve since it seems like everyone is suggesting that as well.

My second question is , I am going to go to my local AC specialist to charge it up once I am done, do they also oil the system when they do that or is that is not part of charging the system back up usually? I am not sure I know what I am doing when it comes to the oil part truthfully.

Thanks for all the help. First time tackling something like this

[vanis13]

[shagginwagon83]

Specifically the early westy headbanger AC had a smaller evaporator compared to late model.

The universal evaporator I bought has a very large evaporator. I had to do some custom work to fit it into the headbanger cabinet:

Pics coming soon.
_________________
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin

[ALIKA T3]

So what's the deal with the evaporator? It's built more efficiently, or is it bc it's clean inside?
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[shagginwagon83]

Vanis13 encouraged me to upgrade my OG evaporator—and that was the key! I spent hours on custom fabrication to fit it into the original box.

This was a huge relief. Last year, after spending nearly $2000 and countless hours on R&R, I only had a small delta, which was disappointing. Now, I can comfortably chill in the front of my van, windows up, and it’s 85°F outside! It's such a new feeling driving the Westy—and most importantly, it keeps the little one comfortable in the back.

Data points for different freon and evaporator setups:

OG 83.5 Evaporator
- RedTek
Ambient: 75°F
Vent: 64°F
Delta: 11°F

- R134a
Ambient: 75°F
Vent: 58°F
Delta: 17°F

30K BTU Universal Evaporator
- RedTek
Ambient: 80.4°F
Vent: 48°F
Delta: 32.4°F

- R134A
Ambient: 85.6°F
Vent: 45.7°F
Delta: 39.9°F

For more information about this evaporator please check this thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=793262
_________________
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin

[vanis13]