High Oil Pressure even after warmup

[Desertbusman]

After thinking more about the cooler mounted filter some bits of memory are kicking in. A cut hole on the rear (rear) side of the fan shroud and a little filter canister sticking up on an angle. In front of the distributor right in line with the stock cooler. Somewhere there were instructions on where and how to cut the shroud.

As far as functioning and circuitry we better wait until someone comes up with the real description from whoever manufactured it. The simple design would have it in series and not the greatest functioning with limited filtration and altered engine cooling. If in parallel it could be decent but complex and needing it's own valving to control it.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[Danwvw]

Sounds like some kind of oil cooler sandwich oil filter! I have never seen one but they sound kind of cool! The problem I would think they would have is they would make the Oil run hot unless they're by-pass. May-be just by-pass in parallel with the oil cooler! Either way I would think they would increase the oil temperature.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[spanky324]

[Desertbusman]

Those arn't an option on a bus. The "moustache" engine mounting bar is in the way.

However it was sure good that VW finally did put a filter on the engines even if only bugs.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[Vince Waldon]

OP: by "filter pump" do you perhaps mean one of these:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=469722
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Vince Waldon Edmonton Alberta CANADA
1970 baywindow

[Desertbusman]

You really got my curiousity going. Please keep digging to find info on the filter deal or take some descriptive pictures. I'm not aware of anything like you have described. But the many other aftermarket devices that fit into the case ports under the stock cooler are usually a lot more harmful than good.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[aeromech]

[spanky324]

Filter Pump

[aeromech]

I really need to see a picture or two of this mystery oil filter mount.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[tolstoy]

Nope....wish I could find a picture of this oil filter mount.....but the are no hoses.....it is a solid chunk of cnc cut aluminum. Looks a little like the alternator stand, but with the shroud on all you really see is the filter poking between the distributor and the coil. The placement is exactly why I accidentally pulled wires off the coil while trying to remove the old filter.

Oh, and the oil leak turned out to just be a bad valve cover seal. Kind of what I expected it to be, but with a fresh new born an a 2 year old at the time....I didn't have the time to mess with it myself.

Tolstoy
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The sun is the same in a relative way, but you're older. Shorter of breath and one day closer to death.
'70 Westy

[Danwvw]

"aeromech" You may be onto something!
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[aeromech]

You said you took it to the shop for a oil leak. Could they have switched the in and out lines on the filter mount? If so, it will cause the filter to swell and maybe high oil pressure.

The other thing is did you replace your oil pressure sender or gauge? VDO makes two ranges and if you install the wrong configuration it will show high oil pressure. Ask me how I know.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Danwvw]

The Mobile 1 15W50 oil would be preferable to the straight weight 40W motor oil: But it is about twice the cost of something like the 10W40 Castrol motor and 20W50 Castrol I ran in my 1971 Bus when we lived in Iowa. Iowa can get really hot. That heat index would hit 120' F. in July and August when we were there . It does cool down nice at night though. If you have any oil leaks or oil being used the 20W50 does stay in the engine better though but it certainly can't be used if your engine has anything bigger than the stock oil pump and I would not want it in a new motor either! With my new engine which has a 26mm Oil Pump and Full Flow Filter, I have gone to 5W30 Castrol and will be going to 10W40 Castrol for the summer. The Mobile 1 15W50 Sounds great If on a Road trip through the desert though I may try it.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Randy in Maine]

Straight 40 weight oil is just too thick.

A lot of us use 15-50 Mobil 1 (as it also has the Zn and Ph that we need and can be purchased at Walmart for about $25 for 5 quarts).

[tolstoy]

Yeah, I know humidity doesn't effect oil temps........but it sure effects me! God, I hate the heat.

Tolstoy
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The sun is the same in a relative way, but you're older. Shorter of breath and one day closer to death.
'70 Westy

[Wildthings]

For anywhere except the hottest desert areas, I run 5w40 year round. Easy starts down to any temp that I am apt to be willing to ride in an air cooled vehicle and an oil that will out perform a straight 40wt in the hottest parts of the engine, plus being synthetic it doesn't break down readily causing sludge and varnish to build up in the case and rocker boxes.


Allowing an engine to warm up at idle is hard on an engine even during warmer weather. The less overall time the engine is run with oil temps below 160*F the better.

FWIW, your engine temperature is not affected much at all by humidity.

[tolstoy]

Don't remember case number off top of my head.....but can get it later if necessary. I do remember that it is a dual relief case with dual port heads, doghouse oil cooler, all of the engine tin including Hoover bit, functional flaps and a working thermostat. Rebuilt og 34pict3 carb, Bosch svda dist with pertronix, and stock exhaust that has been ceramic coated inside and out.

The filter mount is not a hack.....I just question if it's just a gimmick part or if it provides real benifits. It is a piece of cnc aluminum that replaces the oil cooler mount. The cooler attaches as normal, an arm extends thru a small cut in the fan shroud behind the distributor where the actual filter screws on in a semi vertical orientation. At best the filter filters some of the oil....at worst it does nothing.

I use 3 quarts because I really don't think the tiny, nearly upside down oil filter holds much more then 1/3 quart. There are no hoses to fill and the mount is very compact. I tried to find an example of this filter mount for you to see it, but it can't find anything about it anywhere.

I use 40sae oil because this is not my daily driver and I don't drive at all in the winter. If I am driving it, it's usually a multi hour drive in the dead heat of Iowa June-August. Talking 85-100 degrees and 100% humidity. If I am just driving a short distance I let it warm up before I leave. Was thinking of going to 10w40 next oil change though.

Tolstoy
_________________
The sun is the same in a relative way, but you're older. Shorter of breath and one day closer to death.
'70 Westy

[Desertbusman]

You have a '70 but you don't tell us anything about your engine other than changed to DP heads and intake. Can you give us the case number? Stock was a "B" engine, single relief, and non-doghouse cooler. Is that what yours is or is it upgraded?

The service manual tells what the specs and wear limits are for your engines oil pressure. And under what conditions it is checked at. As a general rule 10 psi per each 1,000 rpm is the bare minimum at operating temperature. Warmed up probably around 15 psi/1000 rpm would be a good pressure. More than that is beyond what would be best. Depending on your trans ratio and tires that means that somewhere around 55 mph would be close to 3,000 rpm. So up at operating temp (maybe around 180 F oil) that's in the neighborhood of 30-45 psi with temp being the big factor.

Now, please tell us why you are using 40W oil? In general, that would be more suited for ambient temps continuously well up in the 100's. For years my summer oil was 40W (when it's usually somewhere between 100-120F) and then 10W-40 winter oil. Multi-vis has improved and now I'm using 20W-50 most of the time. Particularly in Iowa, 40W normally wouldn't be used unless it was an old really worn out engine that couldn't build oil pressure.

Another concern is your "probably worthless oil cooler mounted filter". We have no idea of what you are talking about. You have a filter so hopefully it is a good normal modified full flow system. But what is this about in mounted on a cooler? From time to time we hear horror stories about wierd filter adaptations and also terrible cooler installs. Hopefully yours isn't that. Please give us pictures so we can see what you have. Your description and numbers don't sound right.
You put in 3 quarts. Stock capacity is 2.65 qts. (2-2/3 qts.). Your filter system, whatever it is, would hold more than 1/3 qt. I run a filter and a 1-1/2 qt deep sump. And my oil change capacity is 5-3/4 quarts. So eliminating the 1-1/2 quarts for the sump but keeping the filter and hoses that leaves 4-1/4 quarts. Pics of what you have will help a lot.
You might have a larger than stock pump which is common to do at rebuild time. Although until we know what engine you have we can't tell what was stock.
The variable factor in pressure is engine RPM and not load. So idle psi is meaningful but load psi isn't. MPH would be meaningful providing what gear you are in. That relates back to the RPM deal. So your latest numbers sound different and better than your first numbers. Why do you think that is so? Changing the filter is not going to affect pressure shown on your gauge. Unless somehow the filter has a much higher pressure loss and then your gauge might show a lower pressure. But without knowing what your aftermarket modified system is we can't determine much.

Sometimes my cold start up pressure gets above 60 psi at idle and that's with a 30mm pump. That's way to high to consider driving off. But after a couple minutes at idle it drops to more normal. Pressure funnies can also happen when the valve (at the flywheel end) that is the one that functions as the system relief gets messed up. And some of that is a result of some rebuilders/machine shops spotfacing the end of the valve bore thinking that it will make is seal better. Sadly if it does seal better then that's a problem and they should have left it alone.
It's good you are monitoring it. Keep at it as you pressure and temps relationships are very important to know.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[Wildthings]

[tolstoy]

Was originally single port, but is now dual port. The napa filter is the new one. The napa replaced a mobil1 filter.

Tolstoy
_________________
The sun is the same in a relative way, but you're older. Shorter of breath and one day closer to death.
'70 Westy