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I need pop top conversion topics
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derRHDmeister
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 1:09 pm    Post subject: Re: I need pop top conversion topics Reply with quote

mikemtnbike wrote:
Oh, okay. The staples/screws are for the canvas to the top. The metal frame that attaches the tent to the body is screw-in across model years. The 80 metal frame meshed perfectly with my 91 top.


That is the clarification I needed. Appreciate it thanks!
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mikemtnbike
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 12:58 pm    Post subject: Re: I need pop top conversion topics Reply with quote

Oh, okay. The staples/screws are for the canvas to the top. The metal frame that attaches the tent to the body is screw-in across model years. The 80 metal frame meshed perfectly with my 91 top.
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derRHDmeister
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 12:27 pm    Post subject: Re: I need pop top conversion topics Reply with quote

mikemtnbike wrote:
I cannot speak for the roof skin specfically, but I can confirm that a 1980 poptop fits a 1991 tin-top, hole-only conversion, perfectly. I believe there are no significant differences in that part of the van's body across the model years.


agreed but it states that earlier top is a staple style, and later is screw style. So how is it different metal wise or its something you can swap between
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mikemtnbike
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 12:13 pm    Post subject: Re: I need pop top conversion topics Reply with quote

I cannot speak for the roof skin specfically, but I can confirm that a 1980 poptop fits a 1991 tin-top, hole-only conversion, perfectly. I believe there are no significant differences in that part of the van's body across the model years.
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derRHDmeister
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 11:31 am    Post subject: Re: I need pop top conversion topics Reply with quote

quick question. is there any difference in the sheet metal from 80-84 and later westies (stapled and screwed) or it is just the fiberglass that is different?

Thanks, I'm figuring if I need correct year sheet metal for the pop-top conversion. Will a roof cut from 80 westy work on 87 using late fiberglass top? Or do I need a roof from the same year?

Please advise thanks.
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unclespanky wrote:
Piercy could dip those wheel cylinders between his cheek and gums and spit them out rebuilt.


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OzzieJo
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 1:43 pm    Post subject: Re: I need pop top conversion topics Reply with quote

Here is my project, full roof transfer aft of the B-pillar. Not finished at the time of this post though.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=712964&highlight=
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jonsonneborn
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

16CV's wrote:
So what is the cost of all that 3M adhesive ? In know that stuff is not cheap. How much do you use VS spooge out and waste?

Stacy


Hi Stacy,

DLJ's #10 above was actually my van. The 3M adhesive was about $40 or $45 + we had to buy a $50 applicator gun which the guy said if we kept it really clean we could return it which we did. We also bought a 2nd tube which we didn't need & returned. That stuff is strong as can be. It's designed for joining automotive panels. A small bead was on the interior metal of my van the next morning which I attempted to remove. It mine-as-well be a weld bead!
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16CVs
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what is the cost of all that 3M adhesive ? In know that stuff is not cheap. How much do you use VS spooge out and waste?

Stacy
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 7:26 pm    Post subject: Re: pop top Reply with quote

DLJ wrote:
Post may be a little late, but I am just now finishing my tenth westy pop top conversion. I'm using a very similar method that Howesight describes. I don't weld, I use 3M automotive body panel adhesive. Its a two part system using an applicator and is user friendly.
Its been posted here that, "this is the only correct way to do this" not true.
The method you chose is your personal choice. Hard to do wrong, but easy to make a mistake no matter which method you choose. Just be patient and take your time. I have never welded the rear hinge brackets in. My first top has been in place for about 12 years now and so far no failure.


I used the 3M adhesive on the outer part, where to top was overplayed, but I re-welded all the spot welds on the inner section of the roof. I figured that was the best way as I couldn't see anyway to not get the ahesive all over everything if I tried to glue the inner and the outer sections.
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tjet
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's what I'm planning....a small pop-top

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=613769&highlight=
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DLJ
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:02 pm    Post subject: pop top Reply with quote

Post may be a little late, but I am just now finishing my tenth westy pop top conversion. I'm using a very similar method that Howesight describes. I don't weld, I use 3M automotive body panel adhesive. Its a two part system using an applicator and is user friendly.
Its been posted here that, "this is the only correct way to do this" not true.
The method you chose is your personal choice. Hard to do wrong, but easy to make a mistake no matter which method you choose. Just be patient and take your time. I have never welded the rear hinge brackets in. My first top has been in place for about 12 years now and so far no failure.
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure you can get photos of whatever you need, just ask. if you have a bunch of questions, maybe start a thread rather than filling up this thread with them.

For example, here is a photo of the westy front roof interior. A tintop vanagon has a strip that the headliner was tucked into vs. the westy has a channel the roof cardboard fits into. You can use the slotted tintop strip if you have to or come up with your own channel and pop rivet it in, or some other diy solution.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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pbrown
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I think I'll be able to use one of those tricks to figure out where the holes go.

One of the issues I have with this camper conversion is figuring out where things go in relation to the inside roof. It's hard to find interior photos of campers that show the roof.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just used duct tape and adjusted them around until they were right behind the holes.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jstar89crx wrote:
Did you purchase a donor van for the top and parts or just buy the fiberglass pieces?
I cut off the front section of the donor van roof and set it on top of the keeper van roof to mark the holes for the cargo box. If you don't have the donor roof I know I saw dimensions from someone in one of the other conversion threads from a few years ago.


I used the method Jstar89crx used, worked perfect and I saved the donor front skin/template. Anybody in Denver feel free to borrow it. When researching how folks were doing this step, I found this method. I was going to use it then just cut the remaining skin off, making it a template. The method is to bolt the mounting tabs to the fiberglass top. Then apply double sided tape to the bottom of the tabs where they contact the roof. Install the fiberglass top with the tabs. The tabs stick to the roof skin. It is recommended that you do not rely on the tape to hold down your front luggage compartment . You should then remove the bolts holding the fiberglass top to the tabs. Then lift the luggage compartment out of the way. This then leaves the tabs in place to be bolted down where they stick.
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16CVs
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget that you have to remove the headliner clips from above the doors before installing the headliner panel.

Stacy
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have the whole donor van. I had the camper sheet metal starting from just in front of the B-pillar to the back plus the fiber glass parts and misc hardware.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you purchase a donor van for the top and parts or just buy the fiberglass pieces?
I cut off the front section of the donor van roof and set it on top of the keeper van roof to mark the holes for the cargo box. If you don't have the donor roof I know I saw dimensions from someone in one of the other conversion threads from a few years ago.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished my pop top conversion. The only thing left is to mount the luggage rack. Is there a trick to figuring out where to drill the holes for the four brackets?

I also need to source a camper headliner to use as a template.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DAV!D wrote:

After you cut the roof off the tintop you route the wiring before putting the new pop top sheet metal in place ...

Thanks, I'm done cutting, I kept the brace on the passenger van and cut away the brace on the westy top, so there is no way to lift out the wires and move them at this point. I can always cut and resplice them if need be.

specialev wrote:
There's a finisher piece there that covers that wiring if you had the part. It's the fascia piece that the vents clip to. I just routed my wires behind that. I'm pretty sure that's how the westy I got the roof off was built as well.

Thanks, the westy had the wiring coming in front of the front brace, and the passenger van has the wire behind the front brace and trapped inside that reinforcement piece. They must have moved it on the westy because it is in the way of where the poptop latch mounts. I'll see if there is room to tuck it under there somewhere, I do have all the Westy trim pieces.

My next post is going to be about the problem of getting the roof tin to lie flat while I try to apply adhesive. I can see why people just choose to weld the entire seam.
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