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1971 Super Beetle Convertible Restoration (started in 2010)
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i don't know what car you are talking about, I'm about 10 minutes away from Kernersville however.
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1971 Super Beetle Convertible Restoration (started in 2010)
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didget69
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The name isn't Bub, but that's okay.

All I ask is that you just stay away from my '71 SB convertible in K-vegas when you are parts hunting... Laughing

bnc
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the advice bub Very Happy

It's been a little while since I have posted my progress. I got the body in the shop and started working on it some. It was too far gone, way too many completely rusted out and gone parts on the body. I ended up finding another 71 super vert 20 minutes from my house that only has a couple small rust spots. It is a complete car I picked it up for 1600 bucks so it was worth it to me for the solid body. Will be selling a lot of the extra parts on here soon. In the process of removing the new body and stripping. Will post pics and updates soon!
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didget69
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd get rid of the urethane transmission mounts & run HD VW factory mounts.
A Working set of air cooling flaps & thermostat should be installed. Replace the foam seal that was glued to the oil cooler so that the cooling air goes through the cooler & not around it -

bnc
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry, I was off track in my thinking for a few minutes. I am running the intake preheat tubes, that run from the exhaust up to the intake manifold,mas you can see in my engine pics. I was thinking of the stove pipe preheat hose, or whatever you call it, that goes to the factory oil bath filter. I am not planning on running that.
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok will look into getting 50ft. thanks Very Happy

and comb, no flaps in the shroud right now. I was planning on just cleaning up the factory tin I have in the pics, blocking off the heater hose holes, and probably the preheat hole as well since I am not planning on running one as of now.

do you happen to know what the difference is in the pulley tin that will make this new breastplate work? as in, why is it differently shaped than my factory tin?
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swhitcomb
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine looks great.

Did you install flaps in the shroud? I think I have the pulley tin that will make that breast plate work. You'll have to notch it out for the intake preheat though.
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22manybugs
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

25 feet will not be enough for the entire exhaust. I bought 50 feet and ended up with a fair amount left over. If you do the exhaust plus J-tubes, 50 feet is probably about right.
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1969 Karmann Ghia convertible
1971 Westfalia camper
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome! thanks for the info and the pictures! I will surely do that.. I still need to get industrial tins since I am running j-tubes. I could probably make some and have the print for them saved on my computer but I don't have a metal brake, I am a machinist not a fabricator. So idk if I will buy some or make some. I was looking at wrap earlier on the internet. Do you happen to know how many feet of 2" wide exhaust wrap it took to do what you did? I was looking at getting either a roll of 25' of it or 50'.
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22manybugs
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wrapped the four separate tubes until they join together. I didn't wrap the collector or the muffler part. For the areas that are too tight to get the wrap between, I wrapped each tube as far as possible, then wrapped the pipes together. It seems that the two upper exhaust tubes running all the way across the back create most of the heat problems because they sit so high; you might get away with only wrapping those two tubes, but the wrapping material comes with enough to do all 4 tubes, so I just wrapped all of them.

It seems like a good idea to wrap the J-tubes to keep heat away from the heads. I have heater boxes so didn't have to worry about that.

I used lockwire to hold down the wrap.

Here are a couple photos of the wrapped exhaust. (Ignore the condition of the wrap, it's beat up from use.)
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1969 Karmann Ghia convertible
1971 Westfalia camper
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that info, I will most definitely do that then. I was already thinking about wrapping the J-tubes just to help with heat issues, but I wouldn't have a problem wrapping all of it. You basically just wrapped everything that is black on the exhaust right? And if so, do you think I can wrap multiple collector pipes together and not individually? There isn't really much of a gap between a few of them. I will for sure wrap the exhaust, last thing I want is issues with paint or other things after I get this thing all done. Thanks for the heads up!!
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22manybugs
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something to be careful about with that exhaust...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The exhaust pipes sit up kind of high in the space under the car. The result is the body sheet metal in the back gets very hot. In my case it was hot enough to start peeling the paint after maybe 6 to 9 months. It also quickly dried out and cracked the rubber engine bay seal.

I solved the problem by wrapping the exhaust pipes in exhaust insulation. It's a bit pricey, but it sure beats having the paint peel in the back.
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miller0358
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 6:41 pm    Post subject: 71 super Reply with quote

Looks great. Keep up the good work. Finished mine last week.
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Jeff
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got the engine mounted up!!
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and got my new fan shroud and tin installed. I tell you one thing, what I have read on here about buying aftermarket tin is all true. It took some work and finesse to make it all work, and even now I don't know that I am satisfied with it.. but nonetheless..
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Installed the new exhaust
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ran into an issue with the back tin (or whatever it is called) as you can see in the picture below, the cutout section in the middle is not the same as factory, and it doesn't line up with the screw holes on one side as it should. I am going to blast and paint the factory tin and roll with it. Maybe cip will credit me for my next order if I return it
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I turned engine over until I got oil pressure, then installed the plugs and wires, shot a little fuel down her throat and she fired right up! Had static timed it to around 6btdc I believe on the bench, and when I rebuilt the carb I had both the adjustable screws 2.5 turns out from bottom. It ran real nice on those settings. I set full advance at 3k rpms. I am very happy with it. The passenger valve cover was leaking oil pretty bad. I was using brand new cork gaskets that came with kit. I tried swapping valve cover with some others I had laying around. still leaked. Put the rubber gasket that was on the engine when I got it on with original valve cover and it doesn't leak a drop now. Had to make up the little cylinder piece that goes on the carb linkage that secures the throttle cable. So now I have all pedals hooked up and working! A few more brake lines (rubber) and some battery cables and I am done with it for now and will get the body into the garage.
Got the tie rods in the other day as well so threw them on as well.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It is coming along!!!! Cool Cool Cool
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks! i like it a lot. just wish most of it wasn't getting covered up by the tin.
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swhitcomb
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your engine looks great. Love the accent red pieces.
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blienemann
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope you got the seal that comes with that pulley. Aftermarket pulleys are known to leak oil from behind them...

I have a similar style pulley that didn't come with the seal. Now I am waiting to replace it with either a stock pulley or buy the full pulley kit with the matching sand seal since I have oil spray all over the inside of my engine bay.
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, I got a few parts I needed in. installed a new fuel pump, blasted and painted the studs and put them back into the case, installed the jugs, and heads. New pushrod tubes installed. Rocker shafts and arms and pushrods, then just slapped the valve covers on for now. I still need to go back and adjust, but for now. Ordered a lot of new tin today since a lot is missing. Got a VW exhaust system the other day along with an aluminum degree pulley. It's coming along..
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Eisenhauer01
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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bash52, I think I am gonna run the heads the way they are for now. The guides were real nice and the valves looked great, my dad has built several Lycoming's and I had him check them out while I had them apart at the shop and he said everything was real nice. If it gives me any issues I don't have a problem pulling it back apart at all, maybe it is because the VW "newness" and excitement hasn't worn off yet Very Happy

comb, I haven't checked your thread yet today, I am about to tho!! this is one of the most fun projects I have done yet, I am really liking this thing!!
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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking really good. We're neck and neck on the progress. Don't know if you saw it, but I got my body on the pan yesterday. Channels are up next.
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