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Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table?
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kalispell365
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2020 3:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

GG099 wrote:
I give the knob a firm twist with my jar opening right hand and the smaller table stays in place. The circumference of the post where the bolt contacts it has become rough but there’s no hint of a deepening groove.

My dumb question is how to stop the stove from rattling. Please show me or tell me where you stuck rubber strips under the lid and how many did you need to get a silent stove?


You can lay a dish towel between the stove grate and the drip tray and that will stop the rattling, plus a place to store the towel.
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ledogboy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 8:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

GG099 wrote:
I give the knob a firm twist with my jar opening right hand and the smaller table stays in place. The circumference of the post where the bolt contacts it has become rough but there’s no hint of a deepening groove.

My dumb question is how to stop the stove from rattling. Please show me or tell me where you stuck rubber strips under the lid and how many did you need to get a silent stove?


I ditched the dish drain rack under the lid, and that really quieted things down.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 7:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

My table never moves. A little dab of grease on both knob threads and I usually over tighten it.

My stove rattle was from the sheet metal box underneath the burners. I thought it was the lid for years. Eventually I took off the knobs, LED panel and long front trim piece. Then I saw the loose screws that hold the box to the wood base. They are a bugger to tighten. I ended up using an old hacksaw blade and bent the last 1/4” 90 degrees into a makeshift flat blade screwdriver. I spent an hour tightening the rearmost screw.
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GG099
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 6:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

I give the knob a firm twist with my jar opening right hand and the smaller table stays in place. The circumference of the post where the bolt contacts it has become rough but there’s no hint of a deepening groove.

My dumb question is how to stop the stove from rattling. Please show me or tell me where you stuck rubber strips under the lid and how many did you need to get a silent stove?
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EugeneM
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2020 5:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

Call me crazy or call me lazy. No mods.

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dgbeatty
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:39 am    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

I put blue loctite on the m10 bolt. After it sets up cover the knob with a cloth and using a large pair of pliers break it loose. It will now be snug and will not back out. It may necessary to repeat every two or three years, Has worked well for us over the years.
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jimf909
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 7:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

Brilliant! (or a steel 90* channel screwed to the table, no block needed) Very Happy Too late though. Crying or Very sad

I cleaned up the edges on a plain old hardware store brace and screwed it to the table. Here’s hoping this latest contraption holds. It seems solid but I pull some heavy Gs on the skid pad. Laughing Rolling Eyes Cool

I’ll keep my eye out for a better, one-piece solution and put it right on the bottom of he list.

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Butcher wrote:
This is the main fault with DIY'ers, they get together on these forums and pat themselves on their backs spreading bad information.
Guilty as charged.

Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 11:29 am    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

A strip of steel mounted on a block below the table would work with that magnet without screwing anything into the rubber bumper.
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jimf909
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 11:14 am    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

That’s the magnet...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013L36SXA/ref=o...k129040-20

Right now I have three small fender washers (about 1” in diameter) screwed to the table. I’m hoping to make something that matches the shape of the magnet a bit better today. I started hoping that a few flathead screws would work but they didn’t hold very well. I wish this magnet came with a mating steel plate but I couldn’t find that on amazon. Off to the hardware store for something better than washers.
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- Jim
Butcher wrote:
This is the main fault with DIY'ers, they get together on these forums and pat themselves on their backs spreading bad information.
Guilty as charged.

Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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fishgo
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 10:46 am    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

jimf909 wrote:
I think I’ve landed on a solution that works for me.

My criteria:
- I don’t want to rely on twisting the knob with all my strength to keep the table from swinging out during travel. I also don’t want loosening the knob to be inordinately difficult for others who may be attempting to free the table from the Westy clamp death-grip. (The friction tape sounds like a good idea but it also sounds like a gooey mess after some time).
- The table needs to be secure, I really dislike the sound of the table slamming into the wall after the Westy tensioning contraption has failed to hold the table.
- I want it to be relatively easy to swing the table in and out, i.e. the Westy tensioning knob shouldn’t be so tight that the table is difficult to swing out.

I’ve tried magnets and was just about ready to try a positive spring pin in index hole similar to the centerpunch dimple ideas suggested in this thread.

As a last ditch effort I bought a sturdy magnet, screwed it to the c-pillar and I think I’m happy (so far). I tried magnets before but placed them where screws only went through the trim panel which isn’t sturdy enormous go for this application. Screwing into the c-pillar was a big step forward.

Magnet...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013L36SXA/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screwed to the c-pillar is key...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Is that the magnet or metal, and where did you mount the mate for it on the table? Can you photograph that?
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jimf909
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 10:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Trick for securing Vanagon Westy rear table? Reply with quote

I think I’ve landed on a solution that works for me.

My criteria:
- I don’t want to rely on twisting the knob with all my strength to keep the table from swinging out during travel. I also don’t want loosening the knob to be inordinately difficult for others who may be attempting to free the table from the Westy clamp death-grip. (The friction tape sounds like a good idea but it also sounds like a gooey mess after some time).
- The table needs to be secure, I really dislike the sound of the table slamming into the wall after the Westy tensioning contraption has failed to hold the table.
- I want it to be relatively easy to swing the table in and out, i.e. the Westy tensioning knob shouldn’t be so tight that the table is difficult to swing out.

I’ve tried magnets and was just about ready to try a positive spring pin in index hole similar to the centerpunch dimple ideas suggested in this thread.

As a last ditch effort I bought a sturdy magnet, screwed it to the c-pillar and I think I’m happy (so far). I tried magnets before but placed them where screws only went through the trim panel which isn’t sturdy enormous go for this application. Screwing into the c-pillar was a big step forward.

Magnet...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013L36SXA/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screwed to the c-pillar is key...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
- Jim
Butcher wrote:
This is the main fault with DIY'ers, they get together on these forums and pat themselves on their backs spreading bad information.
Guilty as charged.

Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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Capulina
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Magnetic strips Attach one to the edge of the table and another to the wall panel to match up. Another trick from my Dad.
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87RedWesty
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used two 2 inch strips of Velcro. fastened one set to the edge of the table, and one set to the wall panel. Worked like a charm. Until I moved to where it gets really hot in the summer, at which point all the things I'd used Velcro for fell apart, because the glue quit working. So if you don't live in the desert, it's a simple and functional fix.
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TequilaSunSet wrote:
Take out the knob... get a skinny marker... stick it through the hole and mark a spot on the pipe. Take out the pipe and center punch a small dent. This will give the knob some grip and when tight make it more difficult to turn/pivot... you could even drill a hole for the same effect.


I did the mod to extend the table height already but this has still been a problem. I'll be doing this tomorrow.
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B.O.B.Wanders
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got the same "flap" thing that SCM mentioned. I used a few wraps of "Friction tape" on the pole and so far that has worked like a champ. Do they still even make that stuff? We even took a trip around the North Georgia mountains with no issues (as long as you remember to tighten it down after swiveling it, that is).
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fxr
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TequilaSunSet wrote:
Take out the knob... get a skinny marker... stick it through the hole and mark a spot on the pipe. Take out the pipe and center punch a small dent. This will give the knob some grip and when tight make it more difficult to turn/pivot... you could even drill a hole for the same effect.
I've just done this with a 5/16" bit (but not holes right through) - and slightly bevelled off the screws in the knobs with a Dremel so they locate without any wobble.

Works a bloody treat! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some electrical tape around the area where the metal clamp makes contact works too.
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SCM
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TequilaSunSet wrote:
Take out the knob... ... you could even drill a hole for the same effect.


I've been wondering about a solution to this too. I really like this idea except, at least in it's stock configuration, my knob doesn't contact the table leg directly. Instead, there is a little flap of curved metal that the knob pushes into the leg. Either way, something along Tequila's idea is what I'm going to look into first.

Edit: After reading the thread that 1621 linked to, I'm just going to try to stick a piece of adhesive non-skid material on my "flap thing".
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Last edited by SCM on Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:46 am; edited 1 time in total
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BlueGrasser
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems like the plastic clips are equivalent to the door stop. It'll keep it from from banging around, but it an accident all bets are off (and hopefully not rear passenger heads Shocked ).

I think I might try drilling out the pipe through the knob hole. That's a great idea to secure it tight and there is no visible difference.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

caveat: the table on my '81 is modified to sit at 3 different heights and is usually in the middle height position (below)

On the pillar mid point at table area, there is a bolt hole. On later model Westies the hole is covered. It will take a seat belt bolt (or the eye hook sold by some vendors). Since my height mod made the table swivel easier, I run a bungee from that bolt to table arm.

For normal height tables, if one didn't mind losing a bit of function and gaining a bit of "ugly", run a bungee from table underside across front of table to this hook? At one point I'd given thought to making something for this application but couldn't see past something like plate steel with hinged bit that hooked onto arm but that length of steel would bend too much in the event of an accident. Under normal driving conditions, it might be fine though.

Neil.

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