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Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus?
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2024 5:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Smokes Sometimes on Start Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
Well, this theory I came up with does not prove out. I thought If I tested start up starting from different positions that I could find which cylinder is causing the smoke. It smoked the first two times I tested it both test set 90' btdc #3 but that was it, I could not reproduce any smoke testing all of the cylinders in the same manner. Here is a Video: Smoke Test I think what I will try is, see what position the engine just happens to be in before starting and see if that effects when it smokes that way I can give it overnight between test.
The other day this thing was smoking a bunch of oil smoke almost every start.

The Engine is still in the 1960 VW Beetle and is running fine, running Mini Cooper Spark Plugs Bosch FGR7DQP+ as they are easier to change and they are Bosch Plus +4 plugs and the engine is better on take off. The Smoking Problem seems to be clearing up over time it now has 7071 miles on it and only smokes a little occasionally on Cold Starts after it was Shutdown Hot and left overnight or longer cool down. Going to switch the motor oil to (Mobll 1) 0-W40 at next oil change and see what happens.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2022 9:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus? Reply with quote

Yes, Hi John, Just got on to "the samba" today and read your message and sent you one. Good to hear from you.
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yinnawagon
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 12:07 am    Post subject: Re: Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus? Reply with quote

Hi Dan.

This is old guy up north ya.. remember rag joint/steering coupler, plus you drove Bus, I was suppose drive yours. But that got cut short deal.

ya know late summer of 2019. I said I'd back in 3 weeks tops, while replacing that 1600 cc engine, with the 2176 buggy motor, Right? lol.

3 years later the 2176 is a 2080. Still not usable. which is why I really need to talk with you.

I'm sending PM, with my #
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2022 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus? Reply with quote

Idle Jets changed:
1679cc Type 1 Dual Port Engine, Jtubes, Stock Bus Muffler.
35.5mm X 32mm Valves L3 heads,
W-100 cam,
Intake Manifolds: Aluminum SS Manifolds,
Dual Zenith NDIX 32 P010 carbs configured Porsche: L, R, No Crossover, No Chokes,
25mm venturi's,
Jets:
210 Air correction,
115 main,
60's then, 50's Now 45's idle jets,
55, 40 Accel Pump Jets, #2 Nozzles,
Long pump plungers, (Linkage leverage set long for least pumping).

August 2022 Bosch Plus 4 (4477) Spark Plugs
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2021 11:55 am    Post subject: Re: Smokes Sometimes on Start Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
Well, this theory I came up with does not prove out. I thought If I tested start up starting from different positions that I could find which cylinder is causing the smoke. It smoked the first two times I tested it both test set 90' btdc #3 but that was it, I could not reproduce any smoke testing all of the cylinders in the same manner. Here is a Video: Smoke Test I think what I will try is, see what position the engine just happens to be in before starting and see if that effects when it smokes that way I can give it overnight between test.
The other day this thing was smoking a bunch of oil smoke almost every start.

Update The Engine now has 3500 miles on it in the car. The smoking problem persist intermittently only on start up. I changed the plugs going from Bosch W9's to W7's but didn't see any sign of oil deposits on the W9 plugs.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 5:49 pm    Post subject: Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine Reply with quote

Not sure this thread would qualify for the "Vintage Speed" Category but I like reading about the 36Horse engines and things people do with them. I had the 56 356A Engine that originally came in my "A" apart, there were a lot of improvements over the Case Castings plus they were Aluminum. But I think one could drop the 356A crankshaft and Flywheel straight into a 36 horse vw engine. Not sure what rods, the 356A Pistons used 22mm wrist pins but I think the 356A rods were 36 Horse size (What 50mm) at the crank. Maybe not so simple found this Crankshaft Questions VW 36hp with a Porsche vs 356 crank Rods Journals are 53mm! I see now there are AA Performance 36 Horse rods available with the option of 20 or 22mm wrist pins.
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel Pump Pressure drop when engine revved Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
I did go back and set the Timing and did a really tight .004" Valve setting. The carbs are just naturally noisy on the intakes! I had an 356A with them, I think if I put an A-Barth 4 tip on the Beetle it would sound like I remember that "A" Sounding.
The 1600 N 356A Zenith 32's had 24mm Venturis and the 1600 S went with 25mm ventures and the S90 I think ran 28mm ventures. I have a couple of 28's and they are hardly a Venturi almost straight!
Currently I have 25mm venturi's in it. Remember though the Porsche 356 A Cylinders were just 83mm. This VW engine has 88mm.

Oversquare engines can easily get bigger valve head size.
WRT bore size: A 356 engine is an EVOLUTION of a VW 25/36 DIN engine. Amazing what they did with it and got them to live for a while, too.
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Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:14 pm    Post subject: Fuel Pump Pressure drop when engine revved Reply with quote

I did go back and set the Timing and did a really tight .004" Valve setting. The carbs are just naturally noisy on the intakes! I had an 356A with them, I think if I put an A-Barth 4 tip on the Beetle it would sound like I remember that "A" Sounding.
The 1600 N 356A Zenith 32's had 24mm Venturis and the 1600 S went with 25mm ventures and the S90 I think ran 28mm ventures. I have a couple of 28's and they are hardly a Venturi almost straight!
Currently I have 25mm venturi's in it. Remember though the Porsche 356 A Cylinders were just 83mm. This VW engine has 88mm.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 2:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus? Reply with quote

I think split bus petcocks are on the internet for sale and made by the OE manufacturer! How is that possible?
WRT Zeniths: they made 60 and 75hp DIN on porsche 1600N and 1600S engines. Maybe different venturi sizes? That's about 82hp SAE. Enough for me and more than my air cooled Vanagon. Perhaps uneven sound is valve lash? Timing advance gotta be right, also, but it really sounds like you are running out of fuel.
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Al Brase
Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 2:44 pm    Post subject: Fuel Pump Pressure drop when engine revved Reply with quote

"Alan" Thanks for the reply, I think the problem is more the tube size at least in my case, mine may be restricted due to the silver soldering I did. I should just replace the whole pet cock. When I rebuilt it it didn't want to stay together very well it would pop apart sometimes, I finally used screwdriver grip in the retaining ring, also it doesn't stop turning if forced either past the 12:00 or the 3:00 O Clock positions. I worry it may pop apart again with a full tank of gas! What a disaster. I wish I had never messed with it. Originally it was blocking the fuel almost totally but I had blown my air hose up the fuel line from the engine and it cleared it. But I rebuilt it anyHow. Just hope it's together right.
Yes I know I built this engine for the 1971 Bus but now it running in the 1960 Beetle, Maybe I should request it get moved to the Performance forum. It does really run sweet. It's Quite. It Pulls nice and strong. But does seem to only be able to use first 1/2 of it's throttle. That seems to be better now on the Highway though, Pulls strong past 55 mph in 3rd but really it's got good torque so shifting at 45 mph to 4th the engine takes over from there quite well.
The Zenith's make a lot of noise inside the car when I open them up. Sounds a bit out of Carb balance but it's not? Maybe it is? Temps are pretty even.

I might just do away with the Pet Cock and carry a gallon of gas in the car. Wonder if later vw tank fittings would work to eliminate it?
The Zenith's when it hits reserve seem to stumble a lot but don't completely conk out for a few blocks.
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Last edited by Danwvw on Fri Nov 27, 2020 2:59 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 8:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus? Reply with quote

I'm guessing this petcock is not on a bay window, tho the thread seems to be in bay window forum.
Great job choosing the Zenith carbs. Good German stuff, but a bit of a learning curve.
Also, good for you knowing and mentioning the screen filter inside the fuel pump.
I'm currently working on a petcock bus, a 1956 single cab.
I often thought it might be better to leave the sock out, then put the filter UNDER the tank At least that would get the problem sediment into an easily removable place.
And here's my biggest point: If you SOLDERED on the petcock, you may have damaged the rubber which might be now partly plugging the passage. Time to put a new rubber part inside the petcock.
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Al Brase
Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 3:48 pm    Post subject: Fuel Pump Pressure drop when engine revved Reply with quote

Thanks Alan for catching my misunderstanding, You guys might be on to something as last year when I rebuilt the Pet Cock I did accidentally break off an inlet tube and I soldered it back on.
Looks like the short tube was left alone, I should try measuring that fuel pressure drop again with it on reserve.
This video is one I took before making this post so it would have been with the pet cock in the up position "Long Tube"
(Note! I Later discovered My fuel pressure gauge is out of calibration and reading 1 lb low so it was actually about 2 1/2 lbs with what looks like from this old video a 1/2 lb drop in pressure revved.)

Link

Last Year:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Before Breaking it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Repaired after breaking it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by Danwvw on Fri Nov 27, 2020 2:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 3:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus? Reply with quote

This is where spelling matters. Steve said "sock", not "stock".
He means the thing under the fitting at the bottom of the tank. Early ones were brass screen soldered up.
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Al Brase
Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 2:43 pm    Post subject: Fuel Pump Pressure drop when engine revved Reply with quote

"Stock"? The screen in the pump? Yeah, it's all been gone through but it could need cleaning again. I did put a metal inline fuel filter on it weeks before and the gas tank filter got cleaned last year along with all new gas lines. It does deliver gas pretty slow though to where the rubber fuel line connects to the metal line where it comes out near the engine under the car. I know because I drained the tank when I swapped engines. It was just a slow flow taking maybe 5 minutes to drain the last gallon. If this is a problem then I probably need to eliminate the pet-cock, Are Pet Cocks too restrictive for Dual Carbs? The other thing is it's still running too rich too as I have yet to re-Jet as I had planned.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 2:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Building a Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus? Reply with quote

sounds like a supply issue - check the sock in the outlet to be sure it is not restrictive.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 1:30 pm    Post subject: Fuel Pump Pressure drop when engine revved Reply with quote

Hi, Everyone, I wanted to ask for information about fuel Pumps, This "stockish 71 Bus engine" with dual Zeniths shown above has what I think may be the Original Fuel Pump on it and I have the WW kit but have not installed it yet. Normally it's got about 2.5 lbs of pressure. But it does loose about 1 lb of pressure when the engine is reved. Is this a problem? Also it leaks oil around the shaft.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2020 10:53 am    Post subject: Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus but put in a beetle! Reply with quote

With Homemade Electronic 6 Volt Voltage Regulator installed inside the Bosch mechanical regulator housing:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2020 6:15 pm    Post subject: Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus but put in a beetle Reply with quote

Out for a Sunday Drive, 1679cc Running Nicely!
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 2:58 pm    Post subject: Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus but put in a beetle! Reply with quote

Leveled the car better and took fuel level readings near the front to back center of the carbs. After the readings below were taken installed (1.3mm Washers Rt Carb) (2.2mm Washers Lf Carb) No readings on the new settings yet, But in the test drive the car ran strong without the hesitation I was getting with the previous settings. I can still see drops of gas coming out of the mains, not too bad though, drops of gas seem to break up better. Probably will remove the carbs and give them a full cleaning next.

21.87mm reading on the Rt. Carb with the 1.5mm Washer:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Rt Carb Measurement Location:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


22.44mm reading on the Lf Carb with 2.8mm of Washers:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Lf Carb Measurement Location:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2020 2:39 pm    Post subject: Stock ish Type 1 engine for the 1971 VW Bus but put in a beetle! Reply with quote

Just finished the "Test Drive" Mixed results. Seems to run plenty strong however it may have a problem with #2. I leveled the car and revved it, #2 is popped a little but #2 is not dribbling like the others. Also getting an acceleration delay now when I give it throttle. I think there's been something wrong with #2 all along and the reduced float level just shows up the problem.
When the new idle jets arrive 0.45's currently 0.50's I will pull the carbs off the car for the installation and do some cleaning. Also I can install 2.30 Main air corrections jets currently they're 2.10's and see if that helps the dribble.
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