Cab Door disassembly/maintenance/adjustment/reassembly (lots pix

[will t]

Thank you for your reply and assistance. Before I installed the felt channel I could see that my window glass was against the bottom of said metal thing, and it even looks as though the glass has been riding against the bottom of it for some time. You can kind of see that in the photos. The glass wasn't going forward any and the channel wasn't going to fit between the glass and the metal thing, so I ended up (this is the second time - I messed up the chrome and somewhat messed up the channel the first time) just shortening the channel - again. Everything is fine in the end, although when the window is all the way down, it can shake side to side a bit. Nothing too bad. I'm probably the only person who will ever notice it.

[busdaddy]

Hmmm..., I just went and looked at a virgin 78 that's never been messed with in the door, the end of the felt channel sits in the lower end of that tab and extends just to the very bottom of it. Maybe yours is bent out (fwd) a little from someone trying to get the latch out the wrong way?, although from here it looks alot like mine as far as angles go.
I suspect it acts like a spring to keep the glass forced forward into the channel on the back of the vent window.
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[will t]

[will t]

[busdaddy]

You didn't happen to get a picture of that steel stopper did you?
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[will t]

All,

This thread has been extremely helpful. It took me a while but I finally did both doors completely. A few things came up - I drilled the wing window pivot tabs (just slightly) to 3/16" and put a short section of solid brass rod from the hardware store, and peened the ends with a small ball peen hammer and a dolly. Done. Oh one other thing - the wire on the new inner scraper from WW was in backwards and it won't install that way. Had to simply take it out, spin it end-wise 180 and put it back into the scraper. Then it went in.

The driver door on my bus (73 Westfalia) is from a later model bus. It was on there when I got the bus. It differs from my passenger door in that it has no steel lower channel so the new felt channel can't extend very far down into the door like the 73 door. There is a steel part of the door preventing it from doing so. Interestingly, the old felt channel that came out was full length on the section that goes down into the door, and I don't know how they did that because of this steel that for me, stops it. So nothing really holds the glass still when it is fully rolled down - unless I am missing something and haven't got it right. The glass shakes side to side, noticeable when you close the door with the window down. Once it is up a couple inches the back edge gets past the steel stopper and into the felt channel and the glass can no longer shake at all. I have not found any information about this later door thing. Can anyone bring me up to speed on this? Thank you!

[Cuccuzze]

Ball bearing!! Genius!!! Thank you!!

[busdaddy]

[Cuccuzze]

I wish I found this yesterday! great post. Question, what did you use to install in the rivet and how?

[chrisoh]

I used this post recently to rebuild my bus doors. It was very helpful, but I wanted to add my two cents, mostly regarding the best order to do things in...

—Roll down window.
—Remove upper/rear felt, LEAVING THE CLIPS IN. If you just yank the felt out with the clips, you will likely break the clips, then you will be sad while you locate and order new clips. Carefully poke around with a standard screwdriver or some type of pry tool until you find the clips, then use the pry tool to release the felt channel from the clips.
—Roll window up a bit and remove it from the regulator, then slide it off the regulator and down out of the way.
—Remove lower rear window channel, if your bus has one. Later busses do not.
—Remove inner door latch/handle.
—Remove inner scraper.
—Remove all 6 10mm bolts holding the regulator in.
—Remove vent window.
—Remove window.
—Remove regulator.
—Remove outer door handle.
—Remove latch assembly.
—Remove outer scraper.

In general, assembly is done in reverse order.

One other tip... To rebuild the vent window correctly, you will need a replacement rivet to re-attach the vent window to the frame after installing the new vent window seal. These are not included in the WCM or Wolfsburg West window rubber set. I found this out in process, and was sad when I had to wait to mail order those two tiny little parts.

Good luck! It’s a bitch, but worth it if your bus has the original 50-year-old rubber parts like mine did.

[busdaddy]

[orwell84]

[Hangout]

My 1975 van dose not have the rear window rail it has a pultruding Chanel near the top door latch why is this?

Eugene 1975 Westfaila same with my friends.

[Mark Hjelm]

Where in so Cal can I have this done? I just don’t have the patience for this..

[davebuckholts]

[busdaddy]

It's shoved in afterwards, push out on the vent window and cram it down into the gap.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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[davebuckholts]

[SatireChuck]

This entire thread is amazing, very very helpful. Thank you all for sharing the photos and tips. I know I'll be using this over the coming days!

--Brother Chuck
_________________
***
“All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.” -Gandalf

———

Brother Chuck’s VW’s:

1968 VW Beetle
1971 VW Bus (Currently under restoration)

[Ausdingo]

Great info. Just a question regarding the inner window scraper. Did not save old ones (wish I had seen this first), and new ones really hard to push in. Can you glue these if need be?

Thank you

[Tcash]

Restore, Rebuild, Refurbish Front Door
Restore, Rebuild, Refurbish Front Door