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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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E1
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 8:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

You’re welcome, hope you nail it (so to speak).
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 3:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Cool, thanks Kamz,
and E1.

-bobby
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 1:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:
Well huh, I see that JBugs sells the glass, and all the holes appear to be round. I guess that I had thought it was a square hole keeping the latch from moving, but it is secured some other way.

While waiting for replies, I did a bunch of reading, one thread says to just turn it with steady pressure... I'm afraid of breaking it tho Sad

-bobby


Perhaps a diagram will help?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It's a "bolt-through" latch, which can be disassembled.

Both of my van's latches work, but they have never, in my ownership, locked into place, which they are supposed to do. One of these days, I'll have to take the time to troubleshoot.
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E1
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 1:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Best of luck, Bud.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 12:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I'm going to put some penetrating oil on the parts that contact the glass, and let that soak a few times over the next few days.. We have temps going from the low single's F to almost 40 F for the next few days, so that should shrink/grow the area slightly, maybe the oil will get in where it needs to go, and I can rotate the assembly without breaking anything. Fingers crossed.

-bobby
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E1
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 8:46 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Maybe you’re tried this, but what if you turn the latch while keeping steady pressure on the outside glass?

In my case and maybe yours, it’s as if the inside of the latch is too tight against the glass. Or the rubber’s too thick, or…?

I’ll look at mine more intently and see if I can wise up a little more.

Fat chance in general, of course. Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 8:09 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Well huh, I see that JBugs sells the glass, and all the holes appear to be round. I guess that I had thought it was a square hole keeping the latch from moving, but it is secured some other way.

While waiting for replies, I did a bunch of reading, one thread says to just turn it with steady pressure... I'm afraid of breaking it tho Sad

-bobby
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E1
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 7:52 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Oh Buddy, sounds like your repair idea may be the only way out then — but I hesitate saying that in never messing with it.

In our passenger-side case, it’s as if it’s “too tight” to rotate all the way forward. It goes maybe 20% from that and no more — but still secures it.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2025 5:33 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

E1, yes, on my '86 Westy, the passenger wing latch does not secure the window at all.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2025 7:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I trun the drivers set so it's easier to put stuff there when parked.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2025 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:
How do wing window latches get into the wrong position, so they can't latch? Do I need to beg, borrow or steal a new latch? Would taking the entire wing window out and trade to with another from one of my other buses be the easiest thing to do?

I see posts about knocking the roll pin out, but the one I am looking at seems pretty corroded...

Thanks,

-bobby

Bobby, you mean you cannot close the wing securely at all?

Our passenger-side latch doesn’t go all the way but still latches… think you’re saying yours won’t even go that far?


On parking brake clicks, ours take a little effort to get three and I would never want less than that. It’s been consistent at three the entire seven years we’ve had the van.

More clicks means less braking if used for its other term — Emergency Brake. If really needed, I want all of that!

Not sure where the four or five clicks idea comes from, but I want none of that. Shocked
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2025 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

The only useful reason I have for the driver swivel is to help remove the seat itself. Otherwise, it's a garbage bit, IMHO
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2025 3:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Question: Should I remove my driver swivel seat? Am I losing anything?

From the picture below from 1985 brochure, they make it seem like the driver and passenger seat can turn into the middle, and you have a 2 person table. Cool, but is this even useful or possible for anyone?

For me, swiveling the driver seat towards the middle, it runs into the parking brake (can be lowered, if you chalk the wheels), and the armrest hits the lower part of the wheel preventing it from going fully sideways like the picture. And the window has to be down or headrest hits glass. Am I missing something?

I've heard some people say removing the swivel base is also more comfortable for taller people. Is that accurate?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/u]

Side question, I would be using the method below to remove, and does anyone have any protips for removal?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWKRkfJkcdE
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2025 2:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

How do wing window latches get into the wrong position, so they can't latch? Do I need to beg, borrow or steal a new latch? Would taking the entire wing window out and trade to with another from one of my other buses be the easiest thing to do?

I see posts about knocking the roll pin out, but the one I am looking at seems pretty corroded...

Thanks,

-bobby
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2025 3:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Camper_Velourium wrote:


New question, passenger seat is stuck on swivel mode. Lucky there's a ton of resistance to get it to swivel (probably something else I need to address) the lever under the front of the seat appears to do... nothing? This is what controls the swiveling right?

Also is it normal fit the seat control lever on the side to be angled outwards about 45 degrees instead of inline with the seat?


Yes, the lever sticking out between your knees under the seat locks the swivel. Try raising while swiveling to see if it will lock.

No, 45 degrees is not normal, it should be roughly parallel to the seat.

Given the stuck swivel you may want to disassemble the swivels, clean them up and reassemble.

Link to removing the seat (finding the small black triangular tab is key:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=229840

Replacement swivel seat bushings will probably help if you want the seat to swivel:
https://gowesty.com/products/swivel-seat-bushing-s...6686279845
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2025 3:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

fxr wrote:
bobbyblack wrote:
Camper_Velourium wrote:
I feel like I've read about a million words on all things brake related. But I'm blanking on parking brake set up. Once drums are adjusted, do you do most of the parking adjustments at the splitter (or whatever it's called?)

When I picked up the van it had a very solid second click which fully engaged the brake, can't even muscle a third click. I'd prefer to have it in the usual 3-5 range.


I hear lots of folks say full on at 3. Mine is full on at 6, and I should probably make it no more than 4. Ya, one nut at the yoke.

oops, Equalizer...


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1463438.jpg


-bobby

Surely one should adjust at the adjusters in each drum brake, rather than tweak the equaliser? Unless the cables to each brake are very new, they shouldn't be stretching any more. 30-40 year old ones, certainly not!


Few weeks old now but I'm dealing with a new to me van with unknown work done to it previously. Pads were fresh and I replaced the cylinders, once brake was adjusted I was still getting only two clicks, with the second click being quite tight. Operation works fine, but I had read 3-5 clicks was preferred so I was hoping to loosen the parking brake adjustment and just wanted to clarify if that adjustment should be done at the equalizer or somewhere else.

There were more than a couple budget tube and lube receipts in the service history of the van so I am not trusting them to have been thorough and to spec on some of this stuff. So I was assuming someone may have tightened the parking brake overly if they maybe did not readjust the brakes properly after a brake job twenty years ago.



New question, passenger seat is stuck on swivel mode. Lucky there's a ton of resistance to get it to swivel (probably something else I need to address) the lever under the front of the seat appears to do... nothing? This is what controls the swiveling right?

Also is it normal fit the seat control lever on the side to be angled outwards about 45 degrees instead of inline with the seat?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 2:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:

In my case, I replaced all rear components and still have 6 clicks to full on. That is what I was mentioning, personally, but I didn't explicitly say I had done all the rears recently.

Thanks

-bobby
Ah, OK! Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 2:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

fxr wrote:


Surely one should adjust at the adjusters in each drum brake, rather than tweak the equaliser? Unless the cables to each brake are very new, they shouldn't be stretching any more. 30-40 year old ones, certainly not!


Jim,

Not sure if you meant to reference my rig, or the post I was responding to, in which that person mentioned having set up the rears already.

In my case, I replaced all rear components and still have 6 clicks to full on. That is what I was mentioning, personally, but I didn't explicitly say I had done all the rears recently.

Thanks

-bobby
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 1:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:
Camper_Velourium wrote:
I feel like I've read about a million words on all things brake related. But I'm blanking on parking brake set up. Once drums are adjusted, do you do most of the parking adjustments at the splitter (or whatever it's called?)

When I picked up the van it had a very solid second click which fully engaged the brake, can't even muscle a third click. I'd prefer to have it in the usual 3-5 range.


I hear lots of folks say full on at 3. Mine is full on at 6, and I should probably make it no more than 4. Ya, one nut at the yoke.

oops, Equalizer...


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1463438.jpg


-bobby

Surely one should adjust at the adjusters in each drum brake, rather than tweak the equaliser? Unless the cables to each brake are very new, they shouldn't be stretching any more. 30-40 year old ones, certainly not!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 1:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Camper_Velourium wrote:
I feel like I've read about a million words on all things brake related. But I'm blanking on parking brake set up. Once drums are adjusted, do you do most of the parking adjustments at the splitter (or whatever it's called?)

When I picked up the van it had a very solid second click which fully engaged the brake, can't even muscle a third click. I'd prefer to have it in the usual 3-5 range.


I hear lots of folks say full on at 3. Mine is full on at 6, and I should probably make it no more than 4. Ya, one nut at the yoke.

oops, Equalizer...


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1463438.jpg


-bobby
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