My baja build

[dustymojave]

Actually the steering rack location is just the norm for offroad VW beam cars. One can work with the mount to adjust the bump steer to as close to zero as feasible before welding the mounts in place on the beam, but the rack location is as good as it gets on a VW beam. Adjustments from how it is would be only fractions of an inch to reach optimum.

My son Warren is quite good at setting rack location in an offroad Baja Bug, due to his years of building play and race Bajas professionally at Crumco. He won't get on forums because he hates dealing with those who seek to be internet geniuses from a standpoint of ignorance. So he won't be telling us how much bump steer he typically gets with similar rack positioning. But I know that it's less than 1/4" total in 15" of wheel travel with +4 arms. He does build cars with substantially wider beams, which makes for slightly less bump steer than the beam on this car.

I'm really NOT sure where IRS feels the rack SHOULD BE mounted.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[joemicari]

Yes, the bump steer is a slight problem, not terrible but probably because my travel is never fully utilized on the road. I never checked this and just mounted to the rack mount as it came on the new front beam. Lack of knowledge on my part and missed reading about this.
I will be adjusting this mount.

Interesting idea to connect the fuel pump to a relay with the alternator lamp. Thanks for this suggestion, and all the comments.

So far, it has been fun and handling and running well. These do not exist in Rochester NY so cruise nights have been fun. Need to research changing my coil springs. Ride is stiff but going to get some miles on it first.

[Wulfthang]

[I Ride Sand]

Id bet good money that the bump steer is HORRID. The rack is in completely the wrong location for the arc of the tie rod to match the arc of the trailing arms, if fact with it angled forward like it is, its the opposite of what was needed. I wouldn't recommend that location for the rack and pinion even on a street car.
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Just a dirty coyote playing in the desert.
now where'd that dirty badger run off to?

[joemicari]

Thanks for the temperature comments. I actually misspoke. Fan goes on at 210 and off at 195. That’s how it is set up.

[JWHracing]

Looks great, very unique and sure to turn some heads.

Based on your temps and fan settings, I would make it so the fan stays on above 210. Once you really run it long enough with a turbo motor it will get above 210 pretty easy. 240-250 although probably rare in your driving conditions will happen at some point and that is okay. On the hottest of days, my car can see 240* temps when wide open at 4000+ rpms during a 200+ mile race.

As for your cylinder head temp, 280 is no issue, in fact that's about perfect. You don't want it any higher than 350, as that's the point where the valve seats will fall out of the head castings, or the valve guides begin to melt.
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[21golden007]

Looks awesome. After 3 years of work Im sure it feels great to have a finished project (if there is such a thing)

[joemicari]

Thanks for the comments. Will be helpful to others. Keep them coming
You are correct, Cruse nights and ice cream store trips. No racing.

With regards to the fire extinguisher, there is another bottle in the cab in front of the driver seat. I wanted one on the back as well. Did not know about tapping to pass and this was the best spot to put it in the back.
The rear bottle is not just for show, although I do realize it might not be accessible. I have an electric fuel pump that is keyed and switched. I also had an inertia crash switch but it was so sensitive I removed it. I am looking for one that is not that sensitive. I am worried about that fuel pump continuing to push fuel and I am not in a position to turn the key or shut the switch, so, the rear bottle.
This form has been helpful, especially the post on seat belt mounting.
Thanks to all who take the time to post and share.

[dustymojave]

Very nice build. AS an off road racer, and fabricator of off road play and winning race cars, there are some things I would do VERY different.

I know that your Bug is a car show Baja for the north east. It's not likely to EVER actually be driven in the desert. The way you built the tunnel out of sections of curved tube, which weighs probably 3 times as much as the stock VW tunnel, while probably not any stronger, if as strong, told me that it was intended for car shows.

OK.

There are reasons why I didn't criticize such frivolous design as it was being done. I'm not saying that it's "wrong", it's simply car show stuff, not working offroad car stuff. Not structural engineering.

But your workmanship all through the build has been quite fine and I have NO criticism for that.

I just posted in a couple of threads a couple days ago about why I don't recommend wide tires on the front of a VW based off road Bug, Baja or buggy. I won't repeat it again here. Your choice of tires and wheels was for the aesthetics of the wheels, not for functional considerations. So function is compromised for form.

OK, Again.

The placement of the fire extinguisher on the rear bumper cage is another show feature. A couple of the offroad race organizations require a fire extinguisher on the rear of a car. On an offroad race truck, that puts a fire bottle near the fuel cell...potential source of fire, in a buggy, it's near the fuel cell and the engine. Again, potential sources of fire. But... In offroad racing, one makes a pass by tapping the back bumper of the car one wants to pass so they get the idea that you're coming through. That fire extinguisher would be gone in a second. And IF there is fire in the area where the extinguisher is mounted on the car, then one has to reach into the flames to fetch a fire bottle. NOT exactly a good place for a fire bottle. So, again...a show car thing.

OK.

The diamond plate aluminum front skid plate, you seem to apologize for. But my Baja, my old Baja, Bajas I build for others, my race buggy, etc. ... ALL have aluminum front skid plates. Often aluminum REAR skidplates too. But the skidplate should protect the beam at least. Otherwise, it's just bling on the front like a hood ornament.

The beam supports are way inboard. That beam would bend more easily than a stock one due to the leverage on the outer ends of the beam when hitting bumps. ESPECIALLY with those severe offset rims and wide ass tires.

Nice car show Bug.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[dirtkeeper]

Fricken awesome wow.

[Daddy o's 67]

Looks Great! Good Job!

[joemicari]

Car is complete. Thought I would post one last time with some pics. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this form. To help others, please feel free to comment on what you would suggest doing different. Maybe I will even update my car based on your comments.
A few of my comments. The front skid plate is all show. Does not connect to the frame and is aluminum. The rear skid plate is steel, protects the engine, gearbox and connects to the frame. All corners have 90 degree welded gussets, including the cage to the chassis. The submarine belt should be back under the seat farther and I will probably update this soon. The front spindles have 2 degree camber which I missed when I bought them. Since I will never be in the dirt/sand, I wish I did not have this. The rear still has positive camber but I will adjust this out once the shocks break in a little. Will see after the summer. Once it is adjusted out, I will lock in the spring plate to the trailing arm. I have the rear shocks very tight right now.
Purposely used a draw through turbo with a 350TP carb and am very happy. Only running 8# boost which is perfect. No need to trash my gearbox. Gearbox was built by Geno in Pittsburgh. Wish I went with narrower tires but I do love the rims and this was the narrowest rim available from DST which dictated the tire size. Might add power steering this winter.
The oil cooler fans kick in at 190 degrees and off at 210. Not sure I will ever reach this temp. Been cool in the NE and the little driving I have done, the oil only reached 140. 7.1 quarts in this motor with the large sump for the turbo. But the cylinder heads have hit 280. Will need to watch these.
This is note worthy. I bought many 3AN fittings from Summit Racing for my brake and clutch lines. One of them was NOT drilled through. If I did not catch this, I would have been trying to trouble shoot why my peddle did not depress and I can tell you my last thought would have been a bad AN fitting. Check all your fittings before installing.

Hope this build and all your comments and feedback help others on this site

[Bad_chopper]

Passenger footwell area if you have a few rangers
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my build page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=536267

[joemicari]

You install this on the low voltage side of the relay. Just like your dash switch.

[dustymojave]

in line with the Fuel pump relay?

I have a couple of Rangers out back. 1 is to be turned into a race truck. The other to be parted out. So maybe I have the part right in my back yard?
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[joemicari]

I did install one of these on my build but did not want to mention it because I am not racing and I am not sure if they would prematurely activate in a race application. I bought mine through summit racing but you can buy from other places including amazon. They are about $60, inexpensive for the level of safety. They are referred to as an “inertia cutoff switch”. They activate around 10g. I am only driving on the street so this was an essential switch for my safety. Very easy install. They are also resettable so if you do install on an off-road race vehicle, maybe put them were you can easily reset the switch should it trip after hitting a large bump. Mine is behind my fuse block, since it is wired through the relay trigger wire.
Hope this helps

[Bad_chopper]

[dustymojave]

[Bad_chopper]

[joemicari]

Good to know. It was recommended to me but I struggled with the price. Decided the shifter was not where I should be frugal. 5 months away from trying it. That’s when the snow is melted here