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How to build a narrowed adjustable Bus beam (tutorial)
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basic_bear
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2020 8:04 am    Post subject: Re: How to build a narrowed adjustable Bus beam (tutorial) Reply with quote

hi, putting this beam together and I have the torsion cut and lower trailing arms installed to measure the location for the dimples. the beam is 4 inches shorter and I cut 2 inches off each end of the torsion bar. I'm looking at the distance between the beam and trailing arm and want to know more about this clearance and if I need to tweak the torsion bar length to allow a proper clearance for the seals. thanks
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Dune Buggy Top
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 10:31 pm    Post subject: Re: How to build a narrowed adjustable Bus beam (tutorial) Reply with quote

It would be nice to see this with actual photos instead of digital images created on a design program.. it's good too but I am also a visual creature
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jeffreyned
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

eric m wrote:
I just need verification about which poly bushings to use in the 4" narrowed beam I am building. The beam I am building is needle bearing beam from a 64-67 bus. The flipped spindles and trailing arms that I will be using are from a 63 beam that has bushings. I'm pretty sure that I need the 55-63 poly bushings that bugpack sells ( PN 6527-10) to match the trailing arms ,Also do I knock out just the outer needle bearings or do I do the inners too for the bushings to fit?


I have been wondering the same thing. I'm using a late model beam and have already removed the outer bearings and narrowed 2 inches on each side. I was considering shortening the bushings in order to keep the inner bearings and maintain the use of the grease fittings / nipples. I'm interested to hear thoughts on this and if anyone has already done this.
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eric m
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just need verification about which poly bushings to use in the 4" narrowed beam I am building. The beam I am building is needle bearing beam from a 64-67 bus. The flipped spindles and trailing arms that I will be using are from a 63 beam that has bushings. I'm pretty sure that I need the 55-63 poly bushings that bugpack sells ( PN 6527-10) to match the trailing arms ,Also do I knock out just the outer needle bearings or do I do the inners too for the bushings to fit?
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeremyrockjock wrote:
You have to hammer them outward to allow the leave retainer to rotate.


In the BusBoys tutorial on installing adjusters, they remove the control arms and the centre grub screw, then they use a tool that basically looks like a very deep control arm (goes all the way to the centre spring holder) on either side, then with a six foot bar on them and through the beam, they twist it to break it free and push out the dimples.
This way all narrowing is done at either end and all that is mounted to the beams in the centre can remain there (steering pivot and damper mounts).

Have you ever tried this method of narrowing? Would it same time and effort?
How long do you estimate it takes to narrow a beam, the way you have described?

Gordo.
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west coast ghia
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like i will be doing my own beam. great read. yes measure alot cut once.

one question.
when mounting my adjusters if i set them at stock hieght, how much drop do i gain just by using bug adjusters? not counting drop spindles.
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AirBus
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Cool

OW and the modified heater...

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jeffreyned
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Udo Westy wrote:
nige1171 wrote:
Get the urethane bushes turned down 2mm on a lathe? Wink


Yeah, the inner was also wrong, because they provide me Bay bushings.. Evil or Very Mad

Now I used the bushing for the pre 63 beam, all ok now Cool

Thanks.


Glad you got that figured out. Post a pic!
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AirBus
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 5:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nige1171 wrote:
Get the urethane bushes turned down 2mm on a lathe? Wink


Yeah, the inner was also wrong, because they provide me Bay bushings.. Evil or Very Mad

Now I used the bushing for the pre 63 beam, all ok now Cool

Thanks.
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nige1171
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get the urethane bushes turned down 2mm on a lathe? Wink
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AirBus
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobody any idea's ?? Sad
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AirBus
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi all,

I hope you can give me some advice.

I narrowed my '64 bus beam.

The inner size of the tube is max 54 milimeter, but the new urethane bushings are 56 milimeter

(And the stock bearing size was 55 mm)

How can I solve this? I cannot drill the tube.. how do you guys do this?

Many thanks.
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DubStyle
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffreyned wrote:
That's what I had assumed, but then I read some convincing arguments saying that wasn't true... Too much reading and not enough time in the garage I guess. Rolling Eyes I'll do first things first and narrow the beam and then measure a bunch and then cut the tie rods. Thanks guys.


Just remember measure once, twice, three times... cut once!
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rabbi_Zachariah wrote:
jeremyrockjock wrote:
You have to hammer them outward to allow the leave retainer to rotate.


I believe that there are three dimples on the center of the beam... I am trying to visualize how I would hammer them outward.. how would i access them to hammer them outward ?

Is there a cutout that I have to make ?




When I cut the opening to remove the retainer I used a heavy punch and hammered the dimples outward
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy as pie, http://mechdb.com/index.php/VW_Bus_%26_type_2_67_or_earlier_-_building_dropped_spindles

Now, stay focused and don't change the subject.


Gordo.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crazy this tutorial makes it seem so easy to narrow a beam, Awesome! I might just try it one day, as soon as I figure out why i would want a narrow beam of course.

Now if i could only find this good of a tutorial on how to flip my spindles, I would be all set.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DubStyle wrote:
jeffreyned wrote:
On a related note, once you have narrowed your beam how do you calculate how much to narrow each tie rod? I've read up on it in the bug forum and they gave some figures of like an 1.25 inches from each for a 4 inch narrowed beam. Would it be the same on a bus?

Please share numbers of how much to cut for however much you have narrowed your beam.

Thanks!


Once you've narrowed your beam, you just take out 1/2 of the total amount you narrowed your beam per tie rod. 4" narrowed beam = 2" narrowed tie rods totaling 4". Wink


That's what I had assumed, but then I read some convincing arguments saying that wasn't true... Too much reading and not enough time in the garage I guess. Rolling Eyes I'll do first things first and narrow the beam and then measure a bunch and then cut the tie rods. Thanks guys.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffreyned wrote:
On a related note, once you have narrowed your beam how do you calculate how much to narrow each tie rod? I've read up on it in the bug forum and they gave some figures of like an 1.25 inches from each for a 4 inch narrowed beam. Would it be the same on a bus?

Please share numbers of how much to cut for however much you have narrowed your beam.

Thanks!


Once you've narrowed your beam, you just take out 1/2 of the total amount you narrowed your beam per tie rod. 4" narrowed beam = 2" narrowed tie rods totaling 4". Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffreyned wrote:
On a related note, once you have narrowed your beam how do you calculate how much to narrow each tie rod? I've read up on it in the bug forum and they gave some figures of like an 1.25 inches from each for a 4 inch narrowed beam. Would it be the same on a bus?

Please share numbers of how much to cut for however much you have narrowed your beam.

Thanks!


Install the beam in to the car adjust the height to where you want it to be and measure the tie rods. That is the most accurate way to get all dialed up.

And make sure yuo do not cut from the wrong end of the tierod as right hand taps are easier to find than the lefthand ones.

And if you're planning to build a airbeam or otherwise adjustin the height a lot you should go for spindle to spindle tierod to maintain static toe in/toe out. But this is a whole new story.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a related note, once you have narrowed your beam how do you calculate how much to narrow each tie rod? I've read up on it in the bug forum and they gave some figures of like an 1.25 inches from each for a 4 inch narrowed beam. Would it be the same on a bus?

Please share numbers of how much to cut for however much you have narrowed your beam.

Thanks!
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