Do You Wax ??

[SCM]

I wax mine once a year but it's bitter-sweet.

Mine has a zillion tiny scratches in the paint that seem to hold dirt very well. Even after a thorough wash with the "foaming brush", once the van dries it looks like I never washed it all. Unfortunately, the only way to make it look clean IS to wax it after washing. I suppose this is also grinding even more little scratches into the paint but, oh well.

I once tried using a buffing compound with an orbital buffer to smooth out the paint but it didn't seem to do much.

My wife and are in agreement that we bought it to use so the rough finish makes those desert pinstripes less painful.
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[TequilaSunSet]

I haven't washed mine in years, undergoing natural patina

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Don't harsh my mellow...
1985 Hightower Vanagon 1.8T- Gone
1972 Panel Bus- Gone
1967 Bug- Gone
1964 Euro Sunroof Bug- Gone
1969/72/63 Sunroof Bug- Gone
1975 Brazilian Bug in the Philippines 🇵🇭- New to me

[E1]

Only if the cracks are wax-sealed but even then, doubtful.
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1984 Westfailure/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s
AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." — Colin Chapman

[llilibel03]

Does putting wax frequently on the seams delay rust?
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87 syncro tintop
90 gl tin top
85 westy 2.0 tiico automatic (present)

[Tbob]

I own several vehicles, nothing newer than a 2002. I wax them all by hand, and on the Volkswagens, I use a product that use to be called J wax Kit, by Johnson wax. I have been using it since the 1970's. I like the way the paint responds to it, it really seems to help my 45 year old paint shine. It doesn't seem to be the longest lasting( it seems to look good for about 6-8 weeks) but it is easy to put on and easy to take off. Johnsons sold the company several years back, and it is now known as Formula 1 wax. I have tried all kinds of brands of waxes over the years, and I keep coming back to this brand.
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1969 Deluxe, owned since 1973
1973 Westfalia, owned since 1983
1980 Westfalia, watercooled conversion
1985 Westfalia, stock!
1986 Westfakia, Audi I-4 conversion
A couple of trucks and a couple of Jeeps

[Merian]

Cons. Reports found that paste waxes lasted longer than liquids (but of course are a bit more laborious to apply - I use a random orbit sander with a wax pad on it)

I am trying to use up all the extra Meguiars Gold Class I have. Their NXT was a lot better...

Meguiars tells me that Ultimate is their best for paint protection; does not leave any residual product on plastics or rubber
Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax - better water repellant; last same as Ult. Fast Finish; different apps. procedures for the two (I tried this on the Vanagon - just squirt it on and hose off with 120 psi garden hose & nozzle & I really seemed to make it easier to get mud off).

Tested by Cons. Reports 2011, updated 2016:
Nu Finish NFP-80 car wax (soft paste can) - rated 71 (best); xlnt. Durability; only got a Good for Gloss
Meguiars Gold Class Liquid - rated 68; Fair Durability (but rated much better than Gold Class paste wax)
Meguiars NXT - rated 69; Fair Durability (but was best liquid); Very Good for Gloss

most products had a significant loss of protection within about 5 weeks

some years ago I tried a spendy & fancy wax vs. Meguiars - it was no better

I agree with a post above that surface prep. is critical - cleaner/polish/clay bar (if needed). Even an ugly dark brown color (name withheld) looks really nice when it's all shiny.
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[coqcitywesty]

For single stage paint, I use Meguiars Gold Class and for clear coat finishes, I use Meguiars Ultimate Wax. Ultimate is really easy to apply and remove and lasts a long time. My single stage car is under a wrap and stored dry and never sees inclement weather, so while the Gold Class also works/lasts exceptionally well on it, under 'normal' use, results may vary. While quality waxes and polishes (Meguiars, Mothers, Chemical Guys etc) may cost more up front, the ease of use (less time to apply), coupled with the better results and performance more than makes up for the initial investment, IMHO.
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1991 Westfalia EJ251, 1972 Volvo 1800 ES

[llilibel03]

[E1]

Yep. Any paint I can see and reach gets minted. Behind the glovebox, deep into the flow-through vents, etc. Engine bay, someday...

Not to be "anal" as much as we have a mailbox on the roof.

Once inside panels are mint, they stay that way for years and don't need much if any upkeep. The van was filthy when buying it and am within hours of finishing a solid week of visual and mechanical upkeep.

Best thing I've ever found for the cabinets is Protect All Fiberglass Oxidation Remover, originally bought to bring the roof finish back. Works great on the roof, too.

Per the front of the license plate holder, not yet -- gotta remove the oily foam first. Might today.
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1984 Westfailure/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s
AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." — Colin Chapman

[Abscate]

Much more important.

Do you remove the rear license plate to wax underneath (or for the pedandicks, in front of it?)
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🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🍊 🍊 🍊

[E1]

Historically, Yes on Meguiar's. I hear them compared to Mother's all the time but see no comparative value beyond the "M."

(though Mother's mag wheel polish is great, if finished off with a baking soda or even corn starch wipe to remove the slime).

I may try Meguiar's paste, I think they make that still but never see it. Very pleased with Nu-Finish liquid wax but always open to finding something better.

Best product I ever used for that last glaze on fresh paint in my custom painter days was Liquid Ebony. Magic.
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1984 Westfailure/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s
AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." — Colin Chapman

[coqcitywesty]

[jlrftype7]

[74 Thing]

Wash, decontaminate (clay and iron removal), polish, and protect should be normal care to any vehicle.

I don't usually use wax now since carnuba usually deteriorates very quickly and you can get better protection out of sealants or coatings. Check out autogeek.net

[tencentlife]

I would have to wash it first.
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Please don't PM here, I will not reply.

Experience is death to doctrine.

[Alaskaberrys]

Only can claim to wax if turning the wand at the do it yourself car wash to “wax” counts (and actually does anything). This is after a trip and just before wrapping her up in the cover for a month or three. I figure it may help to keep from chafing. Otherwise, paint is so tired we’ve never really been motivated to do so...
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'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)

[vegpedlr]

I’m going to.

The previous owner waxed it before I first saw it and it made the ratty appearance a bit. Then the deluge hit it with weeks of rain. I figure some wax might help preserve what’s left of the paint and bondo. Plus, it’ll get better mileage and go faster too.
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1985 Tintop 4 sp GW 2.3 “Connie”
2006 Mk V GTI 2.0 FSI “Penelope”

[andrewvwco]

[shagginwagon83]

[E1]

Tomorrow I wax for the second time this week, third time since purchase in October, and probably the van's fourth time since the '90s. POs suck.

Just because I can. Nothing beats resurrecting dull paint. Okay, maybe space travel does.

Is it wrong to admit my doors jambs are mint?
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1984 Westfailure/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s
AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." — Colin Chapman