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Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it!
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bnzelener
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 11:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

It was the ignition coil!!! Even though it tested OK per Bentley resistance specs, I replaced the ignition coil and the engine fired right up: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mkjU8oXKtPvPh7kH8

A gentleman named Thomas (who I found via his YouTube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95PkgSavOCo) helped me over the phone and via WhatsApp tonight. After 3 days of testing and going mad, 45 minutes on the phone with Thomas did the trick. He provides this virtual-mechanic-help as a service for a $10 donation via his website: http://fkh161.ca/ and obviously I can't recommend him enough.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions! This diagnostic marathon has given me a lot more comfortability in the engine compartment -- which I'm sure I'll need down the road. Cheers!

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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2020 12:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

If (as you say) you have spark at the plugs and fuel from the injectors then I think you are either misleading yourself or there is a problem not related to fuel or spark -- and the most likely source of that is either timing or compression.

bnzelener wrote:
I just tried to spray starter fluid into the airbox and directly into the engine to test whether the issue is fuel vs. electrical.

The engine did not start, pop, or sputter at all: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dBFEou8yBRG7wUz4A


Not sure that would work as the S-boot is off and thus the arm in the AFM is not moving.

I would verify compression and timing.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2020 12:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

bnzelener wrote:


- All ohm resistance and voltage System Check tests pass using a multimeter per Appendix B page 26 in the Bentley manual (bentley pic: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yQSZwvicAd3fj9ax8)
- I'm getting fuel out of the injectors when cranking. Pulled them and had them spray into a napkin.
- Ignition coil tested good per Bentley tests
- I'm getting spark from the ignition coil to distributor AND from individual spark plugs when cranking
- testing per this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95PkgSavOCo -- I get power from the outside leads and when I ground the center lead I get spark off the coil wire (wiring connector going to distributor). According to him, I should replace my hall sender. Is this correct?
- Per this Bentley test list, terminal 87 on my B relay does not have power. I swapped the B & C relays and this still occurred. (bentley pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wfKZ2ooqKYpVE1rw8
[/list]



Since you have spark, fuel out of injectors, all tests in tables checked out good, it sounds like you should have power under this test condition but.....

with ignition on, you don't see power at 87 of B relay?

If possible, get, make, a remote starter switch. Careful use of that while gently pushing, pulling on wires/harness might reveal an intermittent fault at wire(s) or connector. e.g. at dizzy.

It's possible you have more than one engine fault at work here.

If you don't have this, a link to PDF of Vanagon Digifant I

http://www.westfaliat3.info/Vanagon_Protraining_Digifant_I_86-91.pdf

[edit] Compared to the Bentley, [end edit] it might have a more in depth check procedure for the distributor hall.

The wiring diagram for ECU and idle control unit is a little more user friendly. Caveat: it shows an ECU ("Digifant") relay with 5 pins. The parts description, logic, is handy.

Neil.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2020 12:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

You said you are getting spark at the coil and the plugs when cranking.
If that is consistently true, why would you expect a different distributor to help it start?

Mark
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bnzelener
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2020 12:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

Hey everyone, I've put in some hours over the last week and still no luck. Cranks fine but will not start or even sputter. Bought the Bentley manual, been testing:


    - I get the same behavior (cranks but doesn't start) with the spare ECU I purchased
    - All ohm resistance and voltage System Check tests pass using a multimeter per Appendix B page 26 in the Bentley manual (bentley pic: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yQSZwvicAd3fj9ax8)
    - I'm getting fuel out of the injectors when cranking. Pulled them and had them spray into a napkin.
    - Ignition coil tested good per Bentley tests
    - I'm getting spark from the ignition coil to distributor AND from individual spark plugs when cranking
    - testing per this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95PkgSavOCo -- I get power from the outside leads and when I ground the center lead I get spark off the coil wire (wiring connector going to distributor). According to him, I should replace my hall sender. Is this correct?
    - Per this Bentley test list, terminal 87 on my B relay does not have power. I swapped the B & C relays and this still occurred. (bentley pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wfKZ2ooqKYpVE1rw8


I am going to try to find a replacement distributor to test on Monday. Does this list spark any ideas for you all? Thanks as usual!
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 2:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

bnzelener wrote:
but let me know if I'm not doing this correctly.

B


I wouldn't just spray fuel around for a variety of reasons: fire hazard, toxic fumes, groundwater contamination, waste of fuel. A short section of hose going to a jar would be better.
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bnzelener
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 1:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

And it appears I'm getting plenty of fuel at the fuel rail... https://photos.app.goo.gl/NebxkjY831mka52p9
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bnzelener
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 1:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

I just tried to spray starter fluid into the airbox and directly into the engine to test whether the issue is fuel vs. electrical.

The engine did not start, pop, or sputter at all: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dBFEou8yBRG7wUz4A

Sounds electrical to me - but let me know if I'm not doing this correctly.

B
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Tbob
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 12:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

I had the same issue a few years ago on my 86 after a fill up at the local Murphy station. Within a few hundred feet the van, which before performed without issue, died several times on the way home, and would not stay running the next day. One of the first things I learned about diagnosing issues is to look at the last thing you did first. So, the last thing I did was fill it up, so I drained the gas(3 5 gallon cans) and put a new fuel filter on and 5 gallons of new gas(not from Murphy) and off I went, for about 100 miles. The, it started dying again. A new filter fixed it, and the old filter was hard to blow through in the direction the fuel was going. Blew that filter the other way, got no discernable water/rust/ whatever, so it setthat filter aside to open up later and investigate. This happened a few more times until I had the time to drop the tank and drain it completely. Doing that solved the problem.
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 6:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

Indeed...(???)

PS/FYI: Yes, I'll be up north this weekend (boat however, not van...)

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Cool

- Dave
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 12:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

dhaavers wrote:
bnzelener wrote:
...After filling with 91, my 2.1L stalled twice as I was exiting the gas station parking lot...

Am I the only one suspicious of bad gas? Not hard to drain a quart out of the tank & look for fluid separation...

<shrug>

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Not unless you are in Ulan Bator

See you in the woods, Dave.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 11:20 am    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

bnzelener wrote:
...After filling with 91, my 2.1L stalled twice as I was exiting the gas station parking lot...

Am I the only one suspicious of bad gas? Not hard to drain a quart out of the tank & look for fluid separation...

<shrug>

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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 8:32 am    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

A quick old fashioned way to rule out spark is to tip a little gas down its throat post filter: if spark and timing are good it will fire for you and you'll know to focus on any fuel delivery issues.

Good luck!
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 3:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

bnzelener wrote:
...(B) the wire harness that plugs into the bottom of this box. No idea what it does.

(B)
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Looks like a vacuum servo for a cruise control.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

That damaged red wire looks like the power wire to the engine wiring box post, used by the fuel injection, ECU, fuel pump.

Mark
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
His linked video shows the power steering switch wires in proper place.

He also said be found unplugged wires and plugged them in.
It would be nice to know exactly what wires those were. Maybe they were unplugged for a reason.

Since he is getting spark as he shows in his video, the power post in the wiring box has power.

Mark

"- Pulled spark plug and it seems like we're getting good spark: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nStCFK76DVoiVPzp7 "


bnzelener wrote:
For more context, I took some pictures and recorded a couple of videos:


bnzelener: thanks for the pics. I'm on a limited data plan so have not watched the video.

Since you did some 'reckless' dirt road driving, I wondered if road vibrations might've knocked a wire loose from PS switch. But along with Marks comment, it seems some people disconnect that switch on purpose. (wrong or right)

Mark: thank's for clarifying re: spark. I see now. If I'm not misunderstanding, the ECU is involved in controlling spark. I was mostly concerned if any wires had gotten damaged by a possible short from positive to ground. That said.....

The alternator smaller gauge red wire in question is a load wire only? IF so, even if it inadvertently connected to ground, it wouldn't short out thus damage anything like relays or ECU. Also, it appears to supply positive to the G1 junction I mentioned.

I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong. Wink

Neil.
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bnzelener
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

Thanks all -- I'll start working through these things this evening.

For more context, I took some pictures and recorded a couple of videos:

- The unplugged wires were (A) one of two brown wires to the power steering pump and (B) the wire harness that plugs into the bottom of this box. No idea what it does. Pics below.

- Here's a video with some coverage on that alternator wire: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qM8wqjKJawqBB7KZ7

- Here's a video of me trying to start the van so you can hear the engine cranking: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xx8Eq1N15zTADhJ18

(A)
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(B)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 11:56 am    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

Ahwahnee wrote:
A more reliable fuel test is to remove injectors and (hopefully) watch them spray fuel as you crank.


Definitely on a good track, this. It'll be good to know that all the injectors fire at the same time. Any one of them can be used to take a look, so the easiest one gets my vote. The absolutely worst design I know of is that the injectors and some other stuff back there does not have a fuse. For instance, one thread here discusses how shorting the wires going to the power steering pump completely fried a huge ton of the wire loom, and the injectors wires are included in this un-fused stuff. I had the bad fortune to catch my O2 sensor wire in an exhaust clamp, and it fried all that harness too.. Needless to say, it was no fun. First off, look to see that your power steering wires are wrapped up, with no possibility of shorting. Next, follow this thread, and pay attention to creating a fuse in the black box!

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 11:55 am    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

Passed through Moab myself nearly 2 weeks ago en route home from Wyoming. Very Happy

Wow... lots of work done since your new toy was bought! Surprised

Vanagon Nut wrote:
The smaller diamater red wire from alternator goes to the black junction box at driver side of engine bay and connects to a nut/stud called P1


Pic for reference (albeit with the added fuse):

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 11:44 am    Post subject: Re: Deal or no deal? Update: Bought it! Reply with quote

His linked video shows the power steering switch wires in proper place.

He also said be found unplugged wires and plugged them in.
It would be nice to know exactly what wires those were. Maybe they were unplugged for a reason.

Since he is getting spark as he shows in his video, the power post in the wiring box has power.

Mark

"- Pulled spark plug and it seems like we're getting good spark: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nStCFK76DVoiVPzp7 "
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