SA Double-Bubble

[jtauxe]

[NASkeet]

[SGKent]

[Abscate]

[jtauxe]

[NASkeet]

I wonder who had been abusing your spark plugs to distort the Earth (i.e. Ground in USA parlance!?!) electrode in that way and close the spark-gap to virtually nothing!?!

I hope you or a suitably qualified & equipped person gave that vehicle a proper roadworthiness inspection & test (including brake balance & efficiency test on a rolling-road brake dynamometer) before you ventured out on your 100 mile test run!?!
_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

https://vwt2oc.co.uk

[ALLWAGONS]

I was looking at the 3rd door seal you have. I was also looking at mine. I think one could make a better fitting seal out of a front door seal. I am not good at fabricating rubber stuff, but I will give it a shot. Just need to find a way to cut the rubber without it getting kinky or bumpy at the actual cuts, so the ends meet flush when glued back together.
_________________
I'd be UNSTOPPABLE if not for Law Enforcement and PHYSICS.

I recycle old cars and parts, other than when I rot, that's as Green as I am going to get.

Thanks to my Tesla driving neighbors, I feel more relaxed driving my SUBURBAN and old VW's.

Everything sounds good on paper!

[Wildthings]

Put a scope in the cylinder with the smashed plug and see what's going on in there.

[Turk.380]

Guess I'm long overdue for an update

With barely 24 hours to spare I got the doublecab wrapped up and back together in time for the Easter Sunday car show here in STL.

new steering guibo.. new brake pedal return spring..

Got the 3rd door latch mechanism cleaned up in the ulrasonic and lubed.. no longer pops open on me!

new repro 3rd door seal installed, but required modifications..

then the top & bottom of the door really stick out..

I wound up finding the defrost "Y" and 1 of the branch tubes hidden way up under the dash! then ordered the other branch tube from eBay..

it took about 15 test fittings but the new glove box liner was trimmed and fitted, along with a new door..

Then fabbed up a steel panel for the radio hole, that holds some power outlets which I mainly use for a cheap little MPH GPS speedo I stick on the dash..

fitted a new VolksBitz rebuilt 34-PICT3 but was having some bad hesitation and stumbling.. I went to do another compression test and leakdown test.. found this..

that may explain a few things yeah?
BTW - my leakdown was less than 10% on all Cyls.

went on about a 100 mile club cruise ..

found that I still have shit highway power.. like, it bogs down worse than the worn out 1500sp in my splitty. barely can do 60mph in a flat. Down into 3rd gear on modest hills. uhhg..
still trying to figure that one out.

my compression is 110-140 but need to re-test that after a fresh valve adjustment.


so, that's just a quick and dirty update to now.
Cheers!
_________________
Brian W
St. Louis, MO
'64 SO-33 Hatch Top Westy | '74 RHD DoubleCab | '87 Syncro Westy: Subaru EZ30D powered | 2002 VW Winnebago Vista
'70 Karmann Ghia AutoStick coupe.

[busdaddy]

Good job!

Sorry I missed this earlier, I should have said "air powered body saw", that would have improved the searching.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Turk.380]

well it took maybe an hour or so, and about 6 or 7 different cutting tools but club-mate Mario Vitale (Chippuller) did most of the labor and we got that kludged in "bushing" removed, and I was able to install the proper rubber bushing.

After Mario left I forged ahead and got the shift rod all re-assembled, and the trans back in by myself and loosely bolted up finger tight. lost track of my square grub screw and need to get everything aligned.

another winter storm coming tomorrow, hopefully I can get over to the shop this weekend and get it finished up.
_________________
Brian W
St. Louis, MO
'64 SO-33 Hatch Top Westy | '74 RHD DoubleCab | '87 Syncro Westy: Subaru EZ30D powered | 2002 VW Winnebago Vista
'70 Karmann Ghia AutoStick coupe.

[Turk.380]

[busdaddy]

Spectacular!
Since the booger welds seem to mostly run up each side I'd split the plate with a body saw and bend the halves outwards so the welds snapped (stop cutting before you hit the VW metal). That bushing was never NLA, someone was just being cheap. A sawzall likely has too long a stroke so it'll be impossible to stay on the plate without bashing the shit out of the bottom of the floor.

And Happy birthday!
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Turk.380]

Finally after the holidays, my birthday, and about a month of sub-freezing temps with everything covered in about a 6" layer of ice here in St. Louis...
I finally took some time to work on the DCAB..

I think I posted previously about the alternator pulley blowing apart and cutting into the alternator case, so I had to install a new alternator...
Luckily one of my birthday presents was one of those induction bolt heaters because I had to cook THE FUCK out of the fan bolt, and the remaining hub of the pulley to remove them from the old alternator.
Also, despite claims to the contrary here on TheSamba, the fan bolt is NOT left-hand threaded!
so, new alternator and Volksbitz rebuilt 34-PICT3 were installed.

After that I turned back to the shifter bushings, and had a lot off issues with the long "rear" shift rod... it was SO DANG TIGHT! I had ran solvent-soaked shop towels through the tube repeatedly, like swabbing out a shotgun barrel.. and greased it all up.. but that front shuttlecock looking bush with the spring wire (from WW) was just so insanely tight! like, I had to pound the gorram rod in with a dead blow hammer..
The next week I decided that just can't be right.. So I pounded everything back out and ended up crushing down the "spring ring" of the front bushing... It seemed to help. It's still pretty stiff, but at least I can move it by hand, with some effort.

What has stopped me dead now is this gorram kludge by a previous owner:

yep, that's a thick plate someone has welded up in the front-most shifter bushing bracket. and there's not enough clearance to get the rubber bushing in there. So I gotta figure out how to get something in there to cut it out. uhhgg.

According to a buddy of mine, this style front bushing bushing was NLA for many years, so we think maybe they welded in this plate as a front support. Which is also too big and doesn't support the shift rod properly.

So, that's where I'm stuck for now..

60F and sunny here in STL today but I'm stuck at home to work a Zoom meeting for work
hopefully I have some time to hack at it a night or 2 this week.
_________________
Brian W
St. Louis, MO
'64 SO-33 Hatch Top Westy | '74 RHD DoubleCab | '87 Syncro Westy: Subaru EZ30D powered | 2002 VW Winnebago Vista
'70 Karmann Ghia AutoStick coupe.

[Turk.380]

[ALLWAGONS]

Has anyone purchased this seal?
_________________
I'd be UNSTOPPABLE if not for Law Enforcement and PHYSICS.

I recycle old cars and parts, other than when I rot, that's as Green as I am going to get.

Thanks to my Tesla driving neighbors, I feel more relaxed driving my SUBURBAN and old VW's.

Everything sounds good on paper!

[jtauxe]

[NASkeet]

[jtauxe]

[NASkeet]