Final drive seal

[skills@eurocarsplus]

^^^^

I mean, I wouldn't run it like that.
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[timvw7476]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

meh, you're fucked

I have seen that exact damage and it results in a big mess.

People advocating the drilling a screw into these seals is suicide if you don't know how deep you can go.

Don't forget, when this pukes it will push all the shit into the trans oil, and then cause bigger issues.
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[SGKent]

Ask Sodbuster for his opinion. The whole reason there is an adjuster ring, and not just a bolt on plate for the bearing is that there are small differences in bearing dimensions, even if just a .001" or so, such that the preload on the differential will change, and the pinion to ring gear lash. You will be close with a punch mark but I can't honestly say that will be good enough. My take is that if the seals were old enough to need replacing then maybe it is time to have a guy like Eric at Transworks go thru it. The pinion mesh to the ring gear is critical, and it does change as the transmission wears. The way I would probably do it is mark it and measure the pinion to ring gear lash, then set it back up the same, using the same brand of bearings that comes out. If the ring gear lash has opened way up, resetting it is something you will need experience with.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[jhingen]

[jhingen]

[raygreenwood]

I would post that picture in the high performance and transmission forum and ask for the insight of mcmscott.

He could probably tell you for 100% what the risk would be with that bearing if any.

My opinion, is that if that roller spacer/retainer is bent enough in the direction you cannot see...which is axially in line with the axle....it could misalign the rollers enough to cause them to contact he inner and outer race oddly.

Personally, I would take the hub wrench (I made my own)...punch mark the large aluminym adjusting ring so its marked and rotate it out counting every turn even to 10ths of a turn so you can put it right back in exactly the same depth and preload.....and simply inspect that bearing. This part is fairly simple to do at home.

Ray

[Wildthings]

[jhingen]

Thanks for the insight on this makes me feel a bit more confident that everything may be fine. I did not realize the bearing set could be replaced without tearing the transmission down so that is good to know, not that I necessarily want to do that. Fingers crossed everything works as it should next 200 to 300 miles.
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1974 Westy
2056
002 3 rib transmission

[Wildthings]

The damaged area doesn't contact the rollers and likely has little force on it, but I have never been faced with one damaged this way that I noticed at least so have no experience with it. If you only are going to be driving within the AAA 200 mile towing range for the next 20K miles or so, then going ahead and running with it is probably fine, but if you hear a noise beginning to come from that area, limit your driving to a getting home if you are close or get a tow if you are far away. It might easily go until the next rebuilt, but there can just be no guaranties.

Just replacing that bearing set is likely not a big deal beyond finding quality bearings. I would punch mark the adjusting nut remove it and remove the big o-ring then reinstall the nut, all using a tool like this

Reinstall the adjusting nut and then get a fairly accurate fish scale and using the above tool as a lever measure the force necessary to turn the nut back to its original position. WRITE THIS FORCE NUMBERR DOWN WHERE YOU WILL NOT LOSE IT. Now install the new bearing and follow the initial preload instructions (I have not read the instruction for installing these bearing recently so don't remember if there are instructions for setting the initial preload, but it would likely be turn the nut to the point of contact and then turn it an additional 1/8 or 1/4 turn to make sure the bearings are seated, turning the shaft as you go.)

Then back the nut off to get slop and turn the nut back in until you get your initial force again and put a temporary paint mark on the nut. Now remove the nut and put the o-ring back on and turn the nut back in to align the paint mark. RECHECK YOUR ADJUSTMENT AFTER SEVERAL HUNDRED MILES TO MAKE SURE IT IS STABLE. Gears could probable give you better instructions.

[SGKent]

[poundman]

@jhingen I can't really comment on your situation. Others more experienced might be able to help. I can only say that I took @wildthings advice and left sleeping dogs lie. I bought the final drive seals just in case I needed them but I have not replaced them. Since my bus hasn't operated in decades, I am starting to learn to fix the obvious stuff only. It is a challenge for me because my brain goes to "might as well do it while I have it apart". That has led me down a lot of rabbit holes and then I realized "why" did I bother.

I am not sure the running status of your bus, but it was mine I guess I would put it back together and see how it drives. From the picture it seems the bearings are still ok, but again, I am far from knowledgeable in this case. I think you are correct to leave the other side untouched until it leaks enough to warrant a change.
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[jhingen]

Hijacking this post as it seems relevant and no sense starting a new one.

I just attempted this job. First the CV attached to the transmission was stuck and had to use a hammer to tap it off (was not as easy as it sounds) plus had to remove axle from wheel side to get good access. Joint fell apart on trans side but housing remained stuck, joint looks fine and I can put it back together. The plate has a small dent pushing on the side which made it tighten up. I will fix it while its off.

That seal was no joke trying to remove, maybe it was because the transmission is installed, but I tried all the tips I found in the forums. Bent the seal remover tool it was so tight, tried screwdrivers, drilled screws in the seal and used a puller but no movement. At that point I was all in at the point of no return with screw holes in the seal.

I gently tapped a flathead down the side between seal and wall. Got it to where it was coming out toward center. Continued to do this until the sky opened and the clouds parted then voila! the seal came out.

Now upon inspection it looks like I may have hit the race on the bearing a few times or maybe it was already like this from the PO. Wasn't hitting very hard but maybe enough to visible damage, could have been done buy the screws possibly. I spun the it with the flange and cleaned it up, used a magnet to pick up any debris I could as much as possible. Going to put some gear fluid in and drain just to make sure anything I can pick up gets drained out. Doesn't seem to be any roughness. I know higher speeds may tell another story but I hope not.

Anyways, guess I am just looking for opinions about the bearing as it is now. I am willing to run it and see how it drives but waiting on new seal to arrive.

Seriously do not want to have to find or rebuild a trans for this.

I will NOT be doing the other side. Both didn't have a terrible leak but I figured may as well replace the seals while I have time.

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1974 Westy
2056
002 3 rib transmission

[poundman]

[Wildthings]

[poundman]

I have my CV axles out for rebuilding right now. I guess this is a good time to replace these final drive seals.

I think I need 2 of each of these parts
https://www.busdepot.com/091301189
https://www.busdepot.com/002517289a

Anything else I should order in advance?
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[airschooled]

You're probably fine, the output seals don't have constant oil flowing to them like a main seal. If they went in easy dry in clean bores maybe I'd be worries. But if you put a little grease or sealant on the outside of the seal, yes I'd expect it to go in without a fight.

An upside down T1 oil pump puller/bolt works to press the drive flanges onto the splined shafts a little. This is useful for reinstallation to make sure they flanges are seated, but also to free up the circlip for easy removal.

Robbie
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One-on-one tech help for your vintage Volkswagen:

www.airschooled.com

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[Globedog12]

Installed my new seals this morning. This was a whole bunch easier than I had thought. I had more trouble with the circlip than the seals. The seals were hard to get out but probably didn’t take more than a minute or 2 for each. I had a decent quality seal puller and used constant pressure on it. I was able to pull with one hand and kind of push the puller with my other hand using the bus structure for leverage. I’m a little concern because the new seal went in so easily. But I guess I will see how it goes tomorrow after I get my cv joints re greased and installed.
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1976 VW Type 2 Original fuel injection

[Globedog12]

[SGKent]

normally the big o-ring doesn't need replacement. Only replace where you have leaking. Sometimes the sealing surface on the flange is worn badly so a new seal won't stop the leaking. Also the center cap can leak sometimes. Weddle has some of those parts for some of our transmissions.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin