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DC to DC charger install - does this work?
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kourt
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2025 5:41 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

You have it correct.

Some of the Victron products have configurable voltage sensing, which makes the exciter wire moot.

Or you can do the exciter wire and not worry about it.

For my install, I am using no exciter wire, and am playing with soft configurations, and having good results.

kourt
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OB Bus
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2025 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

To give life to this excellent thread...

I am getting my knowledge base set up. Thanks to *everyone* who contributed to this conversation and answered my questions. I have one more thing I like to get clarified.

From what I think I have read:

a. If a vehicle has a smart alternator, the signal wire (D+?) is necessary going to the DC-DC.
b. Eurovans do not have smart alternators.
and thus:
c. A DC-DC charger installed in a Eurovan does not need the signal wire.

Do I have this correct?
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2025 5:13 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

wavefarer wrote:
Is this the isolation post that I need to connect the DC charger before?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks for that pic- I removed the furnace and then that black frame, did not see the isolation stud. There's evidence a previous owner altered the electrics, so I need to keep investigating.
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OB Bus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2025 1:46 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

Thanks! I will look at our Eurovan later this afternoon.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2025 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

Quote:
am having a hard time figuring out this modification. Could you show me or explain just how this looks or works?


(I also created a new topic with this modification to make assist the searching)

The shroud that surrounds the EVC furnace also supports the hot air ducts for the furnace. In order to remove this shroud you need to slide the stock rear seat out of the way for access. In my van, with its platform bed, removing the seat base is a non-trivial task. My solution was to cut the shroud at the location where the shroud changes size for the hot air ducts. Now I can remove the shroud without having to move the seat base, and without disturbing the hot air ducts.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2025 9:10 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

The Orion XS DC/DC will let you set limits on input amps. I only have a 90 amp alternator so I set it to 10 amps maximum.

The existing wiring in my van (not EC) had a D+ line from the alternator and I wired that to the H input on the Orion XS so charging only happens once the alternator is running.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2025 10:16 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

wavefarer wrote:
I left my Orion Tr start voltage to 14 volts. It seems to take several minutes for the charger to kick in but it does and then it puts out somewhere between about 7 and 20 amps. There iare suggestions to lower the Start Voltage to 13 volts for LiFePo4 in vehicles with non-smart alternators. This could get the charger to start charging sooner and put out more amps. Here is one youtube on subject https://youtu.be/ICYTJhx2AsI?si=7AbQuJ4UzUVlZpi3

kourt, or anyone else, what setting did you use for Start Voltage? Thoughts?

I have an Orion Tr charging a LiFePO4 and I left all the shutdown detection values at the default settings, including start voltage. I don't have any concerns with the delay to start charging. I personally don't agree with the video suggestion setting the start voltage at 13V. At a minimum I would set it higher at something like 13.2V. More specifically to our vans I have never seen any issues with the alternator hitting 14V.

I suppose if you really wanted to get the charging going the instant you turn the key, you could wire up the remote start H pin. For my setup I have the BMV 712 controlling the Orion Tr via the remote start because I don't want my LiFePO4 battery charging every time I turn the key. Instead I control DC-DC charging based on the battery state of charge.
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xEVC
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2025 4:39 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

OB Bus wrote:
dsh1705 wrote:
Quote:
Has anybody tried removing the furnace without taking off the back panel with fuses and water sprayer?
Quote:


Easily done. I have also made it a bit easier by cutting the plastic shroud that surrounds the heater. The cut is just before it heads behind the seat.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I am having a hard time figuring out this modification. Could you show me or explain just how this looks or works?
Thanks.
Larry (Old Guy)


Here is a picture of the shroud from the back side ( I took this picture when trying to diagnose a loud rattling noise)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


My guess is that @dsh1705 cut the shroud shorter, but it would be nice to see the actual cut point. My picture is from a 2000, but I think the 1995s had the same shroud geometry, but I'm not sure.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2025 9:44 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

wavefarer wrote:
kourt wrote:
Just to add on to the amperage discussion: I configure my Victron DCDC chargers to never exceed 15amps in/out. Maybe not necessary in the plausible scenario that xEVC lists, but at least I have a gatekeeper that I know will limit amperage. I like that kind of control.

I second the removal of any MagneTek appliances.

kourt


I set mine to 15 Amp when I saw there was an option for 15 amp and 30 Amp in the settings. Seemed like the safer option since I used the existing wiring and alternator.


Correction: I can throttle the ip22 30 amp ACDC charger to 15 amps. The Orion Tr 30 Amp DCDC does not have that setting that I can find and internet search seems to verify that.

I did see a couple of references to the Oriaon Tr throttling down the amperage for self preservation when either the alternator does not output the voltage expected or wires are thinner than optimal.

I left my Orion Tr start voltage to 14 volts. It seems to take several minutes for the charger to kick in but it does and then it puts out somewhere between about 7 and 20 amps. There iare suggestions to lower the Start Voltage to 13 volts for LiFePo4 in vehicles with non-smart alternators. This could get the charger to start charging sooner and put out more amps. Here is one youtube on subject https://youtu.be/ICYTJhx2AsI?si=7AbQuJ4UzUVlZpi3

kourt, or anyone else, what setting did you use for Start Voltage? Thoughts?

I
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2025 8:25 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

dsh1705 wrote:
Quote:
Has anybody tried removing the furnace without taking off the back panel with fuses and water sprayer?
Quote:


Easily done. I have also made it a bit easier by cutting the plastic shroud that surrounds the heater. The cut is just before it heads behind the seat.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I am having a hard time figuring out this modification. Could you show me or explain just how this looks or works?
Thanks.
Larry (Old Guy)
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Larry in OB
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2025 10:05 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

kourt wrote:
Just to add on to the amperage discussion: I configure my Victron DCDC chargers to never exceed 15amps in/out. Maybe not necessary in the plausible scenario that xEVC lists, but at least I have a gatekeeper that I know will limit amperage. I like that kind of control.

I second the removal of any MagneTek appliances.

kourt


I set mine to 15 Amp when I saw there was an option for 15 amp and 30 Amp in the settings. Seemed like the safer option since I used the existing wiring and alternator.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2025 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

dsh1705 wrote:
You can remove it, or safely cap it off for future use.

Thank you so much. This clears it up for me.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2025 4:29 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

I had to triple check myself - turns out my website has it wrong in a few places.

But here's photographic proof...

MagneTek


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2025 12:02 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

Quote:
p.s. : it's spelled MagneTek - many of us are getting it wrong in this thread.


All these years I have been spelling it wrong! And I am the guy who is so pedantic about the spelling of EuroVan!

Thanks for the heads up!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2025 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

You can remove it, or safely cap it off for future use.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2025 11:47 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

mikemtnbike wrote:
xEVC wrote:
The Magnatek is so old it has two outputs, "clean" and dirty 12VDC. That's what you see on circuits labeled IJ and K.
Modern chargers only have clean outputs, so you would combine these - many of us just created a new aluminum busbar.

You can see my writeup here: https://xochi.com/evc/victron-ip22-charger/

David's: https://1705.net/converter-upgrade/


OB Bus- both the links above are very helpful.


Yes I have studied both of them.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The instructions are to remove the "dirty" feed from the Mag. That I get. But there is still the red wire going from the Mag to the isolation stud. If I am not replacing the converter, does this wire get removed also?
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2025 8:27 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

xEVC wrote:
The Magnatek is so old it has two outputs, "clean" and dirty 12VDC. That's what you see on circuits labeled IJ and K.

Modern chargers only have clean outputs, so you would combine these - many of us just created a new aluminum busbar.

You can see my writeup here: https://xochi.com/evc/victron-ip22-charger/

David's: https://1705.net/converter-upgrade/


OB Bus- both the links above are very helpful.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2025 8:11 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

kourt wrote:
Just to add on to the amperage discussion: I configure my Victron DCDC chargers to never exceed 15amps in/out. Maybe not necessary in the plausible scenario that xEVC lists, but at least I have a gatekeeper that I know will limit amperage. I like that kind of control.
I second the removal of any MagneTek appliances.
kourt


So is there a step-by-step guide somewhere for eliminating the Magnetek? Not replacing it, but simply removing it? I know it unplugs, but what about the rest of the wires? I have never been inside that cabinet...yet.

I am not young. Thanks for your patience.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2025 6:34 am    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

Just to add on to the amperage discussion: I configure my Victron DCDC chargers to never exceed 15amps in/out. Maybe not necessary in the plausible scenario that xEVC lists, but at least I have a gatekeeper that I know will limit amperage. I like that kind of control.

I second the removal of any MagneTek appliances.

kourt
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2025 4:44 pm    Post subject: Re: DC to DC charger install - does this work? Reply with quote

Quote:
That should be fine as with a 10 year old we usually don't camp in one place for more than 2 days.


Nice to have a small chauffeur to drive you from site to site! Very Happy

If you really want simplicity, consider not including a DC DC charger at all. I've been living that way for 5+ years.

Yes, some will say "Danger! You'll burn out your alternator, because the low resistance of LFP batteries will draw too many amps". Possibly true in other vehicles.

But I've tested this in the Eurovan, and it's simply not true: between the starting battery and the house battery are about 30 feet of wire, a bunch of connections, a big solenoid, and two 40AMP auto-reset breakers.

Add these all up and it's a non-trivial amount of resistance.

Thus, even when your LFP house battery is nearly dead, there simply is not enough current running through the system to do damage to your alternator.

In fact, the opposite is the problem: I find my LFP house battery only charges at about 20 amps. Adding a DC-DC charger might actually *increase* the amperage.

But whatever you do, get rid of the MagneTek - it's really a dinosaur.


p.s. : it's spelled MagneTek - many of us are getting it wrong in this thread.
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