Distributor and carburetor

[ilustr8tor]

Thank you Andy, I will look today and get back
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[glutamodo]

You were talking about what might cause such a carburetor to suddenly lose its top end... and if it has a power fuel system, that can be a cause. However, it's not terribly likely to "just happen" though, the 28PICT-2 example I gave, I found out on my test run with a very nice clean looking carb I got at a swap meet.

If the mod state number is facing the shroud, then you know it's early, so it has to be a 1300 carburetor that lacks the power fuel system. AND if it was born as a type 1 carb. VW 47 didn't have the power fuel system, but VW 45 for the 1500 bus and VW 46 for the 1300 Ghia, they did.

And s for the VW 47, it did lack it... when it was new.

While the Beetle 1300SP carbs lacked the power fuel system, the carburetor lower half still as the holes drilled in it for it, so if you change the top half of the carb with an equipped version, then boom, you suddenly have power fuel system. (and potentially, bad fuel economy if you still have the large main jet)

You can just take off the air cleaner and look down and the brass nozzle for the Enrichment (power fuel) is just under the vent tube for the bowl.

And some examples of the Modification State Number.

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Andy T.

"What is Glutamodo, Horror of Toyko, besides total, fiendish, quality-a-you brain!"

[ilustr8tor]

I had VolksBlitz build this carb for me, not sure I will try to get a look at the shroud side.
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[glutamodo]

The Modification State Number was on the bowl of the carburetor facing the fan shroud up until mid year 1966, then it moved down to the base flange next to the throttle arm.

I wonder which 30PICT-1 you have, the 1300 version that lacks the power fuel system, or the 1500 which does. The 1300 got away without it by having a larger main jet. The 1500, despite being a larger engine, didn't need as large of a main jet because of the power fuel system. Which is a brass arm that only delivers fuel at higher RPM. Carbs that have it, if it plugs up, will run like crap at higher speeds. I had a 28PICT-2 once where the power fuel system check ball (there isn't one on a 30PICT-1) was corroded and stuck, so no flow and it was gutless yellow turd to drive in 4th gear.

VW discussed this syndrome in the service manual for the 1200, specifically because of batch of bad (blem) carburetors, but it describes the problem exactly how it happens.

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Andy T.

"What is Glutamodo, Horror of Toyko, besides total, fiendish, quality-a-you brain!"

[KTPhil]

My logic was this... 15% increase in airflow (displacement) at a given rpm (1385/1196cc), is paired with a 7% increase in carb size (30/28). Not equal, but it is a reasonable compensation at the top end. But this isn't uniform across all RPMs, so I presume jetting will need to be adjusted as well.
I did this 20 years ago but I forget the specific jetting change. I believe I only adjusted the main jet, not the air correction or pilot.
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Current Fleet:
- '71 Fastback
- '69 Westfalia
Retired:
- '67 Beetle
- '65 Beetle (x2)
- '65 Bus
- '71 Squareback

[wagen19]

The 30 PICT-1 carb was used on early 1300 and 1500 ccm, F and H-engines for Beetle, Karmann and Bus. But with a number of different spare part numbers and settings. What about the "setting-number" and number on bolted on tag?

[tasb]

A 30 PICT 1 carburetor and a 113 K distributor IS a factory matched pairing. The 7 1/2 degrees static timing point is for a brand new distributor. There is also a + or - 3 degree variation allowable in the specifications, that is often overlooked.
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1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Member# 2059

[Glenn]

[zerotofifty]

Put a timing light on her and with that confirm your advance is working correct. Static timing is only applicable IS the advance mechanism is working correct like. Max advance should be about 28 degrees. the advance should move smoothly as you alter engine speed.
Beware of sticky advance mechanisms!

Test for a hot blue spark by removing one plug wire and with insulated pliers, let it spark on the engine case, assure you have a strong blue colored spark.

Ohm test all five spark wires, and the rotor, make sure cap is clean inside, and the electrodes are good and clean.

have good clean breaker points, gap to .016 inch.

assure your valves are adjusted. .006 exhaust and .004 intake is a good number in inches, do this with cold motor

once the valves and ignition system are checked out ok, then you can adjust the carb.

It is a total waste of time to adjust the carb if the valves and ignition are not right so do the carb last

Also before the carb adjust, assure you have no intake leaks. so get her running at slow steady idle ( after warmed up) and spray some flammable aerosol carb cleaner with a straw at the head to manifold connection, and also at the carb base to manifold flange. if you note any change in rpm either up or down upon aplication of the spray, then that indicates a leak at that point of spray.
It is impossible to correctly adjust carb with an intake leak.

So get all the other things right BEFORE carb adjust.

I had this same engine combo, 1200 with big bore pistons. Sweet

let us know how it goes.
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[heimlich]

That's a good combination of distributor and carburetor. The timing specification is 7.5 degrees BTDC.

The common problem with those distributors is the plate which the points sits on sits over a bushing. That area gets a little sticky over time for old grease and dirt. If you can remove it, clean it up, and regrease and oil it. It will help with the movement of the vacuum canister.
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[ilustr8tor]

Thanks, mukluk. carbon build up is minor cleans off with light brushing. I think I will replace coil, points and cap to start.
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[mukluk]

1) Compatible, yes. Correct, well, VW never made a 1385 so there's not really anything that'd be correct or incorrect... that combo should work though.

2) Loss of power under load or at higher rpm could be a fuel delivery or weak spark problem. I'd clean the carburetor out, paying attention to any evidence of debris in the float bowl or jets, then give the ignition system a going through. File and regap the points, check the plugs, check the cap and rotor, mist the plug wires with water while running and look for spark leakage/arcing, verify you're getting good power to the coil, check the strength of the spark coming from the coil, etc.

3) You should be able to static time your 205K to 7.5°BTDC unless you're getting too much advance full in or pinging.

4) How much carbon buildup are we talking here? Evidence of an overly rich mixture? Choke sticking or improperly adjusted?

5) Still running 6v means you're going to have to stay on top of voltage drops across the electrical system moreso than if you had 12v. Low voltage to the coil will lead to weak spark.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[KTPhil]

I used that exact combo for years in my '65. Good running combo.
_________________
Current Fleet:
- '71 Fastback
- '69 Westfalia
Retired:
- '67 Beetle
- '65 Beetle (x2)
- '65 Bus
- '71 Squareback

[gt1953]

Could be the condensor is starting to wane or go bad.
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Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[ilustr8tor]

I have a 1965 Beetle, 1200cc with a big bore kit so 1385. I have an original VW distributor 113 905 205K and my carburetor is a Solex 30 PICT-1.

1) are these compatible and are they correct for my engine?

2) Was running great but now it seems to be missing when I put any strain on the engine. Idles fine but upper range of 3rd and fourth gear is seems to be miss firing or hitting a flat spot.

3) I currently have static timing set to 5.5 BTC

4) Plugs have some carbon build up on them

5) still 6 volt

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I love this analog addition to my over digitzed life.