off idle adjustment on IDFS(china)

[liquidrush]

I went through the same issue, I ended up with 58 idles and it cleared up all of the hesitation and flat spots. I bought a pin vise set and opened the jets up a little at a time. 58s did it for my engine.

[Dale M.]

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/313.htm

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/312.htm

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/317.htm

_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[ORANGECRUSHer]

yup, like you said you only have to do that once.
Doesn't mean you can't screw it up later by having improperly adjusted linkage. I have empi hexbar linkage and I have to double check how it's set when it's hot and toasty because it will change when the cylinders grow and open the right side slightly.
_________________
Brian H.

OrangeCrushERBerrien Warrior-2.4L Quad4-2x3 arms-1.5Fox coilovers-094-930CVs
LAZY MARY1970 Baja 2110cc-82mm CB forged crank-AA pistons/cylinders-Grant rings-1.1 vw rockers-CB serpkit-CB chromoly PRs-CB maxiflow filter pump-wix51515 filter-Dual 44IDF-cut/turned front beam-AEM wideband-Auber CHT-Donaldson Dual PowerCore filters-custom AL air boxes

[SGKent]

you pull the carbs off, dump the fuel, turn over gently not to hang the float, and look at each one to be sure the butterfly is covering the first transition port when it is held at warm idle (if it has a choke that holds the butterflies open). The butterflies sometimes will need adjustment to be centered in the body, evenly spaced all around. To do this one gently loosens the screws a tiny bit and adjusts the butterfly to center it. Normally if you have a model that has a stop screw, the butterflies should clear the bore about the thickness of wrapping tissue paper all the way around when the screw is initially adjusted. I used to use a sliver of carbon paper when I could get it because it is about the right thickness. Shine a light thru each butterfly to make sure it is centered. Check each transition port using carb spray to be sure it is open and not blocked. Then make sure it is covered or above the butterfly edge at idle. I used to tweak the butterflies sometimes to cover the holes if the holes were a little off. We aren't talking a huge tweak, just a little. If the holes need massive adjustment then something is goofy with the carb when it was made. Some carbs have a setting on the idle screw of X turns open. When in that position the ports must not be exposed.

When they are exposed, they bleed fuel constantly which interferes with the idle mixture. Then when the butterfly is opened, the mixture goes way lean and causes an flat spot. Usually it is a one time adjustment, and when it is done it lasts the life of the carb, although it should be checked as part of any rebuild. Also make sure the engine timing is advancing properly, and that if you have a distributor with mechanical weights like the original Bosch, that they have a drop of oil on them and are free to move. Oiling the wick under the rotor is a normal maintenance item once a year or so. A couple drops of engine or mineral oil is all it needs.
_________________
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[ORANGECRUSHer]

lol
this is why it's so important to get linkage setup right as well. Don't need it heating up and then one side is propping open the throttle like you explain.

What is it? About a 1/4-1/2 turn out from the throttles being seated and you're starting to get into the transition ports?

I always try to make sure my linkage is not doing any weird things after I make changes or take things apart and put them back. There's always an initial setup without the linkages even connected. Usually when the sync is done.

No I get a good solid idle. Cracking open the throttle I want it to return to that idle without any hunting. Without any hes would be nice too.

No I don't think I have any problem being prematurely open, but what you say about that does kinda ring in my ears. I think it's the lack of adequate vacuum not stimulating that transition on time. But you bring a very good point.

Man I wish I could just go out and slap some different vents in while we chat, but alas, I have to work eventually. I use the term 'work' loosely. I usually go to work to take a break from the real work at home.
_________________
Brian H.

OrangeCrushERBerrien Warrior-2.4L Quad4-2x3 arms-1.5Fox coilovers-094-930CVs
LAZY MARY1970 Baja 2110cc-82mm CB forged crank-AA pistons/cylinders-Grant rings-1.1 vw rockers-CB serpkit-CB chromoly PRs-CB maxiflow filter pump-wix51515 filter-Dual 44IDF-cut/turned front beam-AEM wideband-Auber CHT-Donaldson Dual PowerCore filters-custom AL air boxes

[SGKent]

[ORANGECRUSHer]

[Dale M.]

Think it's time for you to get EFI Subie....
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[ORANGECRUSHer]

Along this line of thought, I also noticed my fuel pressure gauge is reading lower than I like. It's around 2.6-2.75 psi. when I want it at 3. That is also hard to get at now lol. Something to play with this weekend. I'm sure fuel starvation isn't an issue when sitting still making a turn, but I get a lot of bouncing in my afr reading while I'm at a constant cruising speed on the smooth highway. Maybe the level isn't quite keeping up in that situation? Otherwise I have some inconsistency between my cylinders causing them to not burn equally at speeds greater than 60mph.
_________________
Brian H.

OrangeCrushERBerrien Warrior-2.4L Quad4-2x3 arms-1.5Fox coilovers-094-930CVs
LAZY MARY1970 Baja 2110cc-82mm CB forged crank-AA pistons/cylinders-Grant rings-1.1 vw rockers-CB serpkit-CB chromoly PRs-CB maxiflow filter pump-wix51515 filter-Dual 44IDF-cut/turned front beam-AEM wideband-Auber CHT-Donaldson Dual PowerCore filters-custom AL air boxes

[ORANGECRUSHer]

Maybe even putting a sharpie line down the side and reinstalling it and removing again to see where the line disappears...
_________________
Brian H.

OrangeCrushERBerrien Warrior-2.4L Quad4-2x3 arms-1.5Fox coilovers-094-930CVs
LAZY MARY1970 Baja 2110cc-82mm CB forged crank-AA pistons/cylinders-Grant rings-1.1 vw rockers-CB serpkit-CB chromoly PRs-CB maxiflow filter pump-wix51515 filter-Dual 44IDF-cut/turned front beam-AEM wideband-Auber CHT-Donaldson Dual PowerCore filters-custom AL air boxes

[ORANGECRUSHer]

I mentioned it before and I'm going to see if I can do it as an alternative to cracking open the carb since it's a big production to get inside my carbs now. but I'd like to see if I can unscrew a stack quick enough and pull it out to be able to see the gas line on it before it evaporated. Honestly, what better way could there be than actually seeing where the fuel level lands on the tube? Better than setting to some arbitrary distance and then hoping it's where you want it.
_________________
Brian H.

OrangeCrushERBerrien Warrior-2.4L Quad4-2x3 arms-1.5Fox coilovers-094-930CVs
LAZY MARY1970 Baja 2110cc-82mm CB forged crank-AA pistons/cylinders-Grant rings-1.1 vw rockers-CB serpkit-CB chromoly PRs-CB maxiflow filter pump-wix51515 filter-Dual 44IDF-cut/turned front beam-AEM wideband-Auber CHT-Donaldson Dual PowerCore filters-custom AL air boxes

[ORANGECRUSHer]

[ORANGECRUSHer]

I wish I could keep all this stuff straight like you guys. I'm just a dumb electrician. Probably too many amps thru the knoggin.
_________________
Brian H.

OrangeCrushERBerrien Warrior-2.4L Quad4-2x3 arms-1.5Fox coilovers-094-930CVs
LAZY MARY1970 Baja 2110cc-82mm CB forged crank-AA pistons/cylinders-Grant rings-1.1 vw rockers-CB serpkit-CB chromoly PRs-CB maxiflow filter pump-wix51515 filter-Dual 44IDF-cut/turned front beam-AEM wideband-Auber CHT-Donaldson Dual PowerCore filters-custom AL air boxes

[chrisflstf]

Here is my opinion. Idf float setting is 10 to 12mm, right? Chinese webers seem to be set at 14mm (mine were). So a 10mm setting means the fuel level is higher than a 12mm setting. Correct? If that is true, then modoks statement in regards to fuel level of the emulsion tube makes sense.

What modok wrote:

"Does changing the fuel level do anything for it?

If the fuel level is too high, covering the main ring of holes in the emulsion tube, it can cause a slight delay in the mains starting, followed by a rich spot.
OR, if the fuel level is too far below the holes, then the opposite."

One other item from my own experience is the drillings on chinese emulsion tubes are all over the place and sloppy as well

[ORANGECRUSHer]

[Dale M.]

IDF's are not wide open carbs you are mistaking them for IDA'a.... IDF's are very diveable in all ranges....
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[ORANGECRUSHer]

[ORANGECRUSHer]

[Alstrup]

[Alstrup]