Help. How to remove this Stud ??

[chrisflstf]

Finding bearings is easier than finding bearings that are sized correctly

[Murt]

Our hobby is not getting any easier Dave
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[daveblank]

[Murt]

I’m probably going to save my pennies and get a new case Rob, it would have been nice to use the old case for the 1904cc but think I will need to go down a different route. I went to look at some cases today but none of them were really worth anything. Although I managed to get some other goodies from the seller. There were NOS Mahle B&P sets 90.5 /92’s and even a box of 94’s, I got a good deal on some nice bits and pieces though so I’m happy

_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Rob Combs]

Of course. Crazy idea but it’s a lever you could pull if you get in a jam.

[Murt]

Hi Rob
Have responded
I hear you but I have a brand new CBP 74mm CW crank that I am planning to use.
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Rob Combs]

A radical idea you could consider in a pinch if you really want/need to use that case….

If bearings are out there for a 10 under crank but not a new one you could have the crank turned 10 under.

Also, sent you a PM.

Apologies if we’re veering too far off subject matter here.

[Murt]

Hi Rob
Thank you, I will reach out to them
Unfortunately just had a message from Marcel @vwnos in Houston, and he doesn’t have any either
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Rob Combs]

[oprn]

Ah! That justifies it!
_________________
Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old!

[Rob Combs]

He’s pulling the head studs. Going 90.5/92 bore.

[oprn]

If the case does not need an align bore I am at a loss as to why the studs had to come out? I don't like to disturb them without good reason.
_________________
Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old!

[Murt]

Thanks Rob
I’ll check that out
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Rob Combs]

There are 7 pages returned on search term main bearings in the classifieds.

I didn’t get a look through all of them but several are posted by call sign heimlich (vwnos, in TX, unless overseas shipping to you is cost-prohibitive). You could reach out to him and see if he might have what you need…

[Murt]

So, some good news and some bad news
#3 Deep Stud is out. Many thanks to Ray and Modok for the advice
I then gave the case a good look over, and found that it was very nice indeed, BUT although the bearings and the case are in remarkably good condition, I am now having second thoughts.
As I said the case bearings are as smooth as a baby’s bottom, cannot drag my nail across and feel anything at all, same goes for the internals of the actual bearings themselves, trouble is that I have measured up and have confirmed that the case is
0.060 - 1.50mm (2.619”)
Thrust is
0.080 - 2.0mm (0.784”)
I have done some searching online and it looks like new bearings for it have the Silverline code C24 111 198 491-60SL on (CIP1) I can’t find anywhere that has STD crank/0.060 case/0.080 Thrust?
This also makes me wonder if it’s worth building something with it ?
Quite disappointing really as was planning on sending it out for machining to 90.5/92
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Murt]

You’re up late Ray
Heading out to the workshop shortly and will report back
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[raygreenwood]

[modok]

Not sure why you'd be concerned with blue loctite
Blue loctite breaks loose a lot easier than rusted solid.
heat it up to 300 degrees f
If it doesen't come loose then put oil on it, the oil will pull in as it cools. Try again. be patient.

Double nut it + vise grips if you don't have a stud puller

Acetone+ atf can make a decent penetrating oil

[Murt]

Thanks for the tip Ray
My wife is out walking the dog, but I'm pretty sure she will have some acetone somewhere along with all the nail polish and sh*t

Edit : Result will try it tomorrow morning

_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[raygreenwood]

Acetone softens it. Dribble some down onto the thread joint area and keep doing if. Keep it wet for a while.

Then get a propane torch and heat the thread area in the case from the outside. Don't get crazy. You want about 500° F maximum. Turn the torch off, give it a minute and dribble some more acetone on it. As that rapidly cools, it causes microscopic cracks in the loctite and pulls in acetone.

Repeat this about three times. Right before the last treatment, lock the case down solid, double nut the top thread, and if you can, take a piece of fuel hose and slip it down onto the stud. Clamp a pair of vise grips over it tight but not so tight that you cut through the hose and damage the stud. The object is to have a little bit of grip and twist in the middle of the stud so you do not "wind it up" so hard.

After the last acetone treatment, while it's still hot....apply some muscle. Eventually this WILL work.

Ray