Engine Run-In Stand: WIRING

[Glenn]

[Dale M.]

[67rustavenger]

[croSSeduP]

Dale, thank you, yes I did see that, but it’s way more than I need. I don’t need to run the alternator, idiot lights, etc. All I need is juice to the starter (check), juice to the fuel pump (check), and juice to the ignition. And that’s the part I’m trying to confirm. I could probably figure that part out by looking at the diagram you provided.
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Please check my '67 sedan project progress!
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[Dale M.]

Did you miss this pic from a earlier post....

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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[croSSeduP]

Here's a pic of my engine, and my redneck wiring job. I did it this way to crank for oil pressure. For clarification: To get it to fire I need to run a wire from the positive side of the solenoid to a positive terminal on the coil. Is that right? So where the red jumper cable is attached to the + of the coil?

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Please check my '67 sedan project progress!
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[Rob Combs]

You are correct. Thanks for setting the record straight. Wouldn’t want to be responsible for anyone blowing up their tools, if that’s what they choose to use.

I worked around a few guys that used them, but personally have never used one. I always had too many ways to work around it to spend the money on the tool. For the stuff I used to work on, it was quicker to use the relay I modified specifically for jumpering circuits.

[Dale M.]

[Rob Combs]

Not trying to butt in; just trying to get you a quick answer...

Certainly helps to have a starter solenoid. But you're (probably) in luck - most starters already have the solenoid attached (old Fords excluded).

Borrowed this link from the Gallery:

The small canister made into the side of the starter motor case is the solenoid. The screwdriver in the pic is on the part where you put the positive battery cable. Just run a jumper from there to the positive wire on the coil. As soon as the battery is connected on both terminals (negative to the engine case somewhere) you'll be ready to rock.

The other side that has a braided cable going into the starter is what the solenoid energizes - it goes direct to the motor windings.

There will be a much smaller post on the solenoid (on this starter you can see a small black connector with a spade terminal inside of it); that's your circuit 50 - when it's in the car hooked up normally, the key in the "start" position will energize this small terminal with 12v, which mechanically pulls the internals of the starter solenoid, which pulls down a copper contact ring that connects where your battery cable goes to where the braid is, just on the back side/inside.

You can make a jumper wire to put 12v on that small terminal, which will make the engine crank over, or do as BFB suggests and take a big screwdriver shaft and short it across where the battery cable goes and where the braid goes, WITHOUT touching the starter or solenoid case, and that will have the same effect as energizing circuit 50/small terminal. Be careful if you do this, and expect that your screwdriver might get an electrical arc burn on it. Your parts house starter switch/button will do the same, just connect one wire to the battery positive terminal at the solenoid, and one to where the braid goes to the solenoid. Pushing the botton will be electrically identical to energizing circuit 50/turning the key to the start position.

Add a fuel source and a way to trigger the ignition and you're in business.

Hope this helps!

[croSSeduP]

[croSSeduP]

[Dale M.]

[croSSeduP]

[Glenn]

[H2OSB]

This has probably been said above, but I don't want to read it all. I have power coming into my box then going through a master switch BEFORE going to the starter button, and indeed, the entire set up. Therefore, when I'm done running the engine, I can simply turn off the master switch (but I also have a switch on the wire going to the coil so I can crank the engine with no spark, in order to build oil pressure before firing)

Hope this helps
H2OSB
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[BFB]

you dont need to run the alternator, engine doesnt draw enough to need functioning charging system. ive broke in many engines with just a jump box and no charging and can still start and run them many more times in a single day.
for simplicity sake, all you 'need' is jumper cables or a jump box , hot to starter & ground anywhere on the engine case then run a hot wire from the power on the starter to the coil and you can jump the starter solenoid with a screw driver.
to stop it from running, take off the ground.
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.

[Heiferman]

[EVfun]

Zalex makes a start/run control box for engines. It is supposed to work with both 6 and 12 volt, generator and alternator equipped engines. I've only used it with a 12 volt alternator engine. For a little over $100 it is a preassembled solution. This is not a promotion, I'm just a customer.
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[runamoc]

[Brian_e]