Refurbish your Hehr windows

[Red Fau Veh]

I searched for a thread that covers this topic with no luck so here is the start of my thread on how to repair and make your Hehr windows new again! First I went to vintage trailer supply dot com for parts. My windows are not Westy jelousies, these are known as standard windows. For these you need specific parts that the westy windows don't use. All Adventurewagon, and (split bus) EZ Camper and Sundial buses use these windows or a similar type. The first item needed is the gasket that holds the glass in place, it is normally shrunken and shriveled into a hardened loop that won't keep moisture out.

Next you need the bulb gasket that the window closes against, it is black rubber and will need to be cut at the corners to form a 45 degree angle allowing the gasket to turn the corner cleanly.

Next I needed the plastic clips called friction pads that the window crank uses to keep the arm in the window slide channel.

Beyond that all that you need is some 3/4" butyl tape, some gasket adhesive, and maybe some galvanized screen and the tool to install it. More comming soon stay tuned!
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1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

[Red Fau Veh]

Now that you have all the replacement parts you will need, it is time to remove the windows from the bus. This is a matter of removing a number of screws on the outside of the window and then popping them out away from the butyl tape that keeps them weather tight against the body of the bus. Now it's time to take the glass out. Remove all the retaining bolts and nuts, this will allow you to take each aluminum glass keeper off, keep these pieces in some kind of order so it is easy to put them all back where they came from. Use a bag to keep all the fasteners in, there are dozens of screws and bolts and you will be reusing all of them unless you purchase new ones. Also I suggest doing one window at a time for several reasons including not mixing the parts together. Ok it is time to evaluate your windows overall condition. In my case the glass is usable in some windows and cracked in others, so using the good glass as a template, I need to have a glass shop cut me some new panes. The condition of the aluminum frame and glass keepers is also a concern. Mine have broken rivets across the top where the hinge is formed. These rivets are not available from Vintage Trailer Supply, and neither is the clincher for them. The type of rivet used is called a semi-tubular rivet, not a pop rivet. The glass pane rests against these rivets so they must be flush on the inside. If you use pop rivets, you will need to install them backwards leaving the bulge end on the outside of the window frame. The correct rivets are available from Grainger, they are aluminum not steel and the correct size is 1/8" diameter by 3/8" length. To install these rivets the proper size clincher is needed and the best type I could find is from a toy repair site for old Tonkas. This squeezer will make perfect tight rivets that look finished on both sides like the factory did.

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1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

[Red Fau Veh]

Now it is time to clean and polish your aluminum frames and parts. There is no one way to do this, but using some Scotch Bright pads in a fine grade will scrub the majority of corrosion away or try SOS soap pads. Next polish the frame with Bright Boy or your favorite brand of metal polish. You can go to a mirror finish or keep them satin style, it depends on how much work you put into them. You could spray clear on them or keep them up by polishing regularly after install.

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1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

[tristessa]

This takes me back to March when I went through the ones for my AW top .. especially all the cleaning.

I did use pop rivets where I had some that had broken, because I couldn't find a tool for clinching the tubular rivets at a non-insane price, and put them with the bulge inwards. To maintain clearance, I had to shorten the shortest ones I could find, file them down on the inside of the window, and seal the opening with a little daub of silicone. PITA, but it worked "for now" until I can redo that part correctly.

[Red Fau Veh]

I remember your posts, these are the same windows. Here is how things look all sos scrubbed compared to a dirty one.

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1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

[splitty_64]

THANKS! For the info. I have a 64 with the same windows and getting ready to restore them.