10lb flywheel

[Justcliff]

My build is for a full weight beetle for street use and occasional strip use.
2332 build in progress
84mm CB super race crank (wedge mated)
CB super race rods
1.4 rockers
94mm p&cs
CB super pro heads 44x37.5 95s
Fk46 cam
48 ida. With 3rd progressive hole
Kennedy stage 2
Daiken
10-1 compression
Berg Equalizer 6lb

With my build above I have a wedgemated crank with a 10lb flywheel

ideally I think i would changed to a 12lb flywheel but with it being wedgemated and being in the UK where I don't believe anybody can do wedgemating it looks like I'm going to go with the 10lb
I have added the Berg Equalizer which might help a bit.

Can anybody advise on how I will get on with this light flywheel with my setup?

[jpaull]

Is it a stock flywheel that is turned down on the back side? Did you weigh it yourself? The reason I ask these questions, is to make sure that quality is good. This is more important then the weight. If its a quality flywheel, I would PREFER the 10lb flywheel. I had a 8lb flywheel, it was turned down so much on the back that it didn't look safe to use, I used it as a Frisbee instead.

I wouldn't use the berg equalizer pulley. But that's one of those things that is a love it or hate it like "which oil is the best" kind of deal. To me adding weight costs horsepower.

I like your combo by the way, everything about it says "no compromise, I'm gonna haul @ss"

Jeff
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[mark tucker]

shit can the berg pulley and put a good aluminum sand seal pulley on it. adding weight is ok if you do it on the power transmiting end.....(flywheel end) not the free end. that can break cranks. it should move right along with that combo. make sure there is valve spring clearance for the 1.4 rockers(no coil bind) I would also use total seal rings. as far as how it will go wit that flywheel.probably a little diferent than a 12 pound flywheel, but not a lot. that 2332 should have a lot of torque anyway.

[Stripped66]

[Justcliff]

Thank you for the replies, and advice.
I believe the flywheel is stock so quality is there.
The Berg Equalizer hasn't been purchased yet as this was a part I was unsure about. So maybe consider a decent aluminium one with steal hub.

[74 Thing]

The JayCee pulleys are nice.

Doesn't John Maher Racing do that type of machine work in the UK?

Wouldn't that cam be better in the 10.5-11:1 compression range?

[vwracerdave]

You will be fine with the 10 Lb. Flywheel and you will also be fine with the Berg Equilizer pulley. I won't build an engine wiothout one.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[Justcliff]

[vwracerdave]

How much street and how much strip. You have to be true to yourself. You can drag race a street car but a drag car is a real bitch to drive on the street. If your 70% strip & 30% street then keep the fk-46. If 50/50 then get the fk-45. If it's mostly street and just a little strip then get the FK-44.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[nextgen]

On the other end of the spectrum --- I was very satisfied with the pulling power of my first T-4 2.0 914 engine in my bug after driving it around NY. For sure not a street racer but a great highway car. Could drive all day at 75 or 80. One night I was on the NYS Thruway and decided to see what it really could do. I waited till the traffic got way ahead and at 60 blasted to over 100, then things got out of hand, even with my dropped front spindles racing tires front and rear anti sway bars, the car started to lift in front and my steering got real light. Took my foot off the gas but it kept going. Now I am approaching the traffic. I kept tapping the brake and finally it started to slow down as I merged into the traffic.. What the hell went on, was it a return spring on the carb??? Nope, it was the Stock T-4 Bus Flywheel and Clutch I used, the weight just kept it going. My entire rotating mass, flywheel, clutch, crank and pulley were all balanced together, it just wanted to keep going.

I had a few cars after that that I used lighter flywheels but to honest I now have the same bus flywheel and clutch and love it, great for highway driving, I just stay under 90.

When I raced MGA's back in the 70s we loved light flywheels, go into a turn and no need to hit the brakes, just get off the pedal , then back on it for a quick recovery.
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there is a LOT of energy in a heavy flywheel spinning at 6-8k RPM. In a drag car you can get an incredible launch with a heavy flywheel and a 8k RPM start.
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[Justcliff]