Replace radiator with engine rebuild?

[JEL91Westy]

I am having my engine rebuilt, and replaced all the coolant hoses and just about everything else that touches the engine, but I had not planned on replacing the radiator. As I was under the van wrestling with the hoses that connect to the bottom of the radiator, I started to question if I should replace it. I assume it is original, I have had the van for 17 yrs, and it doesn’t leak nor have I had any temperature issues. And although the original hoses were dirty, they still looked and felt good. I bet the new hoses don’t last as long as those, and wonder if one of the replacement radiators is better than the original? If I had temp issues it would be easily justified, but not sure given the circumstances. Opinions appreciated
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91 Westy
85 911

[MarkWard]

Replace it.

[brickster]

It’s not easy to find a replacement of the same quality and it’s easy to test it. I would pull it and pressure test it. If it’s good, give it a thorough cleaning and run it.

[dougnlina]

I would be inclined to replace it, or if a decent quality one cannot be found, take it to a radiator shop to have it thoroughly cleaned out and pressure tested.
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"Grover" a '87 Syncro Poptop 1.8T
"Olive" a '60 Ragtop Beetle (retired)

[AndyBees]

Likely a replacement will be aluminum.

If so, be extremely careful while handling it. It is very easy to gouge a hole in it. (don't ask me how I know ).
That was 7 years ago. So, I am still running the original radiator and the up-front hoses.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI, two trips to Alaska, 2014 & 16. 1989 Tin-top unmolested.
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful.

[JEL91Westy]

Thanks for the opinions and advice.

Next question, is there anyway to get it out without undoing the AC lines? Also need to figure out which one to get, seems like everyone has a different opinion on that.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=762634

This site encourages paralysis by analysis!

Thank you.
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91 Westy
85 911

[AndyBees]

If I remember correctly, it is not necessary to remove AC plumbing to drop the rad down and out.

The Van needs to be high enough to do the work. Seems I removed the clam shell to improve the work space.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI, two trips to Alaska, 2014 & 16. 1989 Tin-top unmolested.
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful.

[bobbyblack]

I just replaced my '87's leaking radiator, which has Factory AC. The two pieces are joined together and dropped as a unit. There were a couple zip ties holding my AC lines up/lashed to some other stuff, and I just clipped those, or otherwise freed them. When "down" there were two screws held onto one edge that threaded into spring clip 'nuts', mine unscrewed easily and were able to be re-used. It had been suggested that I get new spring clip nuts to have on hand in case of corrosion. After the two screws, the two components separate by spreading them apart, and gently lifting the two tabs out of the radiator on the other edge from the screws.

I will find the link and edit this post to relay the info on finding new spring clip nuts.

Edit:
Like these, except in a BMW or Audi or VW brand? These were reported to have worked for the same job a friend did and made the reference I mentioned above..

https://www.lrparts.net/ryh500170-nut-and-speed-cl...icles.html


Edit 2:

When thinking about the notion of a rebuilt engine, I would imagine that you are already replacing a number of other components. Take into consideration what some of the rebuilt engine options we still have available to order, from vendors such as GW, which include wording like: to be considered "warrantied" all such components in the cooling system must be new... The radiator is mentioned directly.

Further, I was having no issues with my cooling prior to the leak that gave me the reason to install my new radiator. When I had it completely removed and set aside, I managed to turn it on an edge that then produced a flow of coolant that had remained in the radiator. I wish I had taken a picture. There was black crud flowing out, completely occluded coolant. I do not know the age of the leaking radiator, however, from that mental image, I would certainly do the best flushing job of heater cores, and any other components that are not "new" for your engine's future health. [And peace of mind]
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[JEL91Westy]

Thanks Bobbyblack, but damn it, now you have me taking the dash out to replace the front heater core.
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91 Westy
85 911

[DanHoug]

on each engine i'm putting into a vanagon, i'm replacing the radiator. due to the header tank design, there's no effective way to clean the OE radiator which now has 30+ years of accumulated deposits and sediment. you can get great flow rates thru a 40% clogged radiator with this design, but not great heat removal.

the bugger is the quality of the new replacements. but at least you KNOW there is adequate cooling for the new engine with its tight tolerances and high friction levels. if the stupid $128 radiator leaks, it is generally a slow weep that can be dealt with for another $128. cheap insurance for a very expensive rebuild.
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-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[JEL91Westy]

The truth usually hurts, I got the message … I will replace the radiator.
Still working on with what, but I will replace it.
Thank you.
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91 Westy
85 911