Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start?

[poundman]

[SGKent]

prob 189K or 289K or maybe even 389K. 12,000 - 15,000 miles a year for the first 10 years is 120K - 150K, then say five - eight years of nothing then 1500 a year for 20 years or another 45K to 50K. That puts it about 189K. Speedo rolls back to zero at 99,999.9
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George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

[poundman]

[poundman]

Continuing on my engine/transmission clean up and refresh. I started on the nose cone today. I got the seal and bushing on the outside but the side bushing would not come out. I trusted my gut on this one thinking that I might be better off just leaving the old bushing. I was going to do more harm then good removing it, and god only knows if the new bushing would fit ok.
I ordered the steel thrust plate from weddle and will get the nose cone milled down 1mm per the instructions. I guess I could go 1mm plus thickness of another gasket if I put a gasket on each side. Thoughts?

Next I started to tackle the push rods, tubes and heads on cylinder 3/4. I chose this side because when I removed exhaust it took 2 of the studs out that I need to fix, plus the spark plug thread on #4 is bad at the top and needs to be refreshed. I got a big nervous when trying to remove the head bolts. I saw at least 1 stud move so I stopped to regroup and ask for help here. The outside head nuts and studs are rusty. I soaked with penetrating oil last night and used some wire brush to try to clean up the outside thread. Any other suggestions to get these nuts removed without breaking or removing the studs?

I am curious about this head number ? Looks like 021.101.371Q. What does it tell me?

Good news that the push rods and tubes look ok. Only 1 ding on 1 tube but I don't think that will impact much, it is not enough to interfere with the push rod. Should I clean these tubes up and paint them?

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[Wildthings]

Find a socket whose OD is is about the size of the ID of the tubes and drive it into the damaged tube far enough to knock the dent mostly out. Using teflon pipe dope on the o-rings will make pushing the tube back into place easier. Rotating the tubes as you push them in can make them go in easier and reduce the risk they get cut.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4681873

[poundman]

[SGKent]

[Wildthings]

[poundman]

[poundman]

Using the wood shims idea I managed to get the fan shroud seperated.
It was hung up on the 2 locator pins at the edge of those points near the center. Be careful when separating where the oil tube is. You need some shims to get that started.

Since the fan shroud is the first thing you see on the engine, I want to invest in painting or powder coating it nice. I scrubbed off the heavy stuff and now they are soaking in degreaser for a few days.

I have the shroud with the peak hole at the top but I can't get that plastic removed, I might need to cut out of the soak doesn't do it. My fan has the timing marks at the top edge

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

do not take the fan apart. It is assembled on a jig by vw and it will be out of round if you take it apart., causing the belt to hop
_________________
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

[poundman]

[SGKent]

[poundman]

I switched over to the 1/2 cylinder head. Got the rockers, push rods, and tubes out without issue. Then removed the head. Only 1 head stud unscrewed but I managed to pull it out then heat up the nut and got it off without issue. I will just need to reinstall the stud. I assume red thread locker would work best?

What do you see with the heads and jugs. I just noticed that the jug #2 has the top fin partially cracked off.

How should I clean the heads and what should I use. Would brake cleaner and soft brush work? Could I soak the entire thing in my parts cleaner with tracker supply PSC-1000 solvent (like a kerosene)

I assume I need to do this to check for any cracks. To my untrained I they seem good. I don't see blow by. I am trying to find signs if this was a rebuilt engine and maybe how many miles it had. PO did say this was a replacement engine but was not sure how many miles (it was his Dad's bus).

Tubes and push rods look good.

Head flipped upside down

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

[poundman]

[Willin]

I have a blast gun from HF, the little gravity fed kind. I use it with "play sand",(sift out the big chunks).Lots of dust, so do it outside. Cleaned up the shroud good, then spray with a clear coat. Use a wire brush to get the heavy gunk off. Don't do this method on machined surfaces of course.
I used Berryman's carb cleaner on the pistons and heads. Use a soft wire brush, toothbrush or brass. Or the glass beads, but you'd want a blast cabinet so you can save the beads.
Put the sealant on just the tops of the cylinders.

Haven't had a reason to pull my nosecone. But maybe I should? Will it look like yours? I don't know.
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73 bus. Org. 1700 with dual Weber 40 idfs, bus header with Empi qp muffler, CB magnaspark 2 " ready to run kit".

[orwell84]

Something I’ve always wondered about…sealing old heads to the cylinders. Not supposed to use the gaskets anymore, though they still come with gasket sets.

There is also the suggestion of lapping the cylinders to the heads using valve grinding compound. I always wondered…How do you know that you’ve lapped the head to the same depth on both cylinders?

I’ve also read about gluing them on. But not sure what that means exactly. Maybe that’s what the copper sealant is for?

I use kopper coat on the sealing surface for the heads and rtv between the cylinders in the case.

I have also wondered about using the stock head gaskets. I know they eventually fail, but usually after many miles. If you get 50k out of them, I wouldn’t consider that bad. The recommended mileage interval for pulling the heads, valve job, checking rings is 75k miles.

[Wildthings]

The only reason to clean the heads would be to look for cracks, because they are very quickly going to look the same again when put back into use. As for removing the same amount of material, just treat each head the same, same girt and amount of valve grinding compound, the same amount of pressure and the same amount of turning.

My way of dealing with heads when we still had a local automotive machine shop was to plop them on the counter and let them disassemble, clean, and inspect them, which often led to the guides and exhaust valves getting replaced.

You might consider new piston rings since you have done most of the work to get to them already.

[poundman]