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Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build
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racecougar
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2025 9:28 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

Considering going to thick-wall slip-in 88's and dual port heads this Winter to hopefully pick up some power. It looks like I could buy new parts for about $1k. Open to thoughts/advice here. Would that make a noticeable difference? Would I be better off with the 35x32 valves or 40x35?



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jimmyhoffa
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 5:29 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

My thoughts are you should probably drive my car hard for frame of reference, knowing my engine configuration, and then decide where in that spectrum you want to be. Our car weights and layouts are very close to identical, with me having a 10" shorter wheelbase.
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racecougar
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 6:28 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

It would be great to get together sometime this year. IIRC, your car runs high 13's. I'll venture a guess that this thing would run a 18.5. If I could get closer to mid-15's for around $1k, I'd be okay with that. It won't be quick, but it'll at least have enough power to feel relatively safe (in keeping up with traffic) on the street.

In the interest of science, I'm going to pull the intake manifold and drill/tap this boss to temporarily connect a vacuum gauge. I'm interested to see if the little H30/31 carb is holding me back, or if it's the rest of the combination (heads/cam/CR/displacement).

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 9:19 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

You went from, the rig is all dialed in to I think I need to throw more money at it pretty quick. You sound like me a bit. Never satisfied. Laughing
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racecougar
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 9:25 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

Fueling is dialed in; it's just terribly slow for a 1200# car. It doesn't need to keep up with my other cars, but it at least needs to have enough power to be reasonably safe in traffic. The plan is to drive it as-is this year, excepting any cheap improvements, then decide what to do next. I only have about 150 miles on it thus far.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 11:53 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

I was just poking at ya, Rod. I only had one 1600 engine and I blew it up it pretty short order. I think I threw a rod out the side. That's when I decided to go all in on a modern FI 4 cylinder and have regretted it ever since. There's something to the simplicity of the vw motor. Problem is it seems very hard for some people, me included, to get the right setup. I don't know if it's unrealistic expectations or just a lack of knowing what to do. If I could've sold my buggy I would have started searching for a Chenowth like yours and Mr. Hoffa's.

I think single carb setups can be part of the solution for engines on the smaller side though. Yeah icing is a pain, but so is setting up dual carbs.
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racecougar
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 12:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

I hear you. If it wouldn't wreck the whole vibe of this thing, I'd consider an Ecotec or the like, as the power level would be perfect, IMO. I can settle for somewhere in the middle.

I'm really curious to run this test and see if the carb is a restriction or if it's simply all the power this combination is good for. I'm in the middle of building a 4R70W transmission for Dad's '73 Mustang (I'd post pics, but they would get deleted), but I'll see if I can find an hour to pull this manifold off and drill/tap it.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 2:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

Always add 50% to what you think it will cost, you will find things that are not right during teardown. Then you have machine work. Cost of parts is not what it cost to assemble. Even if doing yourself but you already know that.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 3:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

Ive done 1500, 1600, 1641, 1776, 1915, and finally a 2054. Still not enough. I wanted bigger, but jim at gateway wouldn't build it for me.
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racecougar
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

You guys aren't giving me much confidence here. Laughing

Nah, I have other cars that satisfy the speed requirement. I just need to get the buggy reasonable for street driving.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2025 7:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

Of course the pict is choking it, those things would choke a lawn mower engine. Heh heh JK, i just dont like those carbs, period. ANY other carb would wake that thing up from a pict.
Aside from that if it’s a stock 1600 it only has around 7.5:1 CR.
I think if your wanting something easy & mild then what your thinking wouldnt be a bad idea. Could also bump the compression while you’re there and maybe run some ratios to get a little more lift and duration.
But if it were me , id just start collecting parts and go ahead and build a new engine over the winter. You’ll end up doing that at some point anyhow so itd be better to just skip the ‘no split case ‘ step and build something you think you’ll actually be happy with and then you dont end up with the slip ins and such that you wont use on the engine you end up building.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 8:41 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

The single barrel carb and the Donaldson air filter is definitely restricting your potential.

A single Weber IDF 40 is the way to go. You can run an air box and still run your donaldson filter, but in your area, you aren't really in the dry dusty conditions that warrant that much filtration. You'd be better off with a large K&N filter and an outerwear or UNI foam wrap.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 8:45 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

You know what you oughta do Rob... Rolling Eyes

I think a good course to take for most of us mere mortals is to just run what you got as long as you can but in the meantime start purchasing all the parts for another engine to build in the future. Then when you build it you have a backup engine. Very Happy
I had the idea to do that while I was wrapping up my 2110 build. I found an older gentleman in his 70's or 80's that used to be a VW tech who had an engine for sale that was in pieces. I got so wrapped up into talking to the guy, I forgot to focus on what I was doing there. He had a ton of things he wanted to share with me about building engines and I was soaking it up. I think I picked up a mag case with about 80% of the rest of the engine for about $300. After I got it home I realized it was a hydraulic lifter style case, the reason he didn't want it no doubt. So I paid $300 for some cheap engine parts and an afternoon's worth of old-timer knowledge.
I think he had something terminal and had less than a year to live. He was a working in his workshop on his last VW. He was going to keep going until he couldn't any more. I wonder how he fared?
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 9:47 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

JWHracing wrote:
but in your area, you aren't really in the dry dusty conditions that warrant that much filtration. You'd be better off with a large K&N filter and an outerwear or UNI foam wrap.


I whole-heartedly disagree. K&N is crap. UNI is a great low CFM dirtbike filter. Stick with the Donaldson and work on the carb 'sitchiation'. Maybe, just maybe check the rated CFM for that filter and make sure it's beyond 125CFM.

https://www.donaldson.com/content/dam/donaldson/en...-Guide.pdf
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 11:12 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

JWHracing wrote:
The single barrel carb and the Donaldson air filter is definitely restricting your potential.

A single Weber IDF 40 is the way to go. You can run an air box and still run your donaldson filter, but in your area, you aren't really in the dry dusty conditions that warrant that much filtration. You'd be better off with a large K&N filter and an outerwear or UNI foam wrap.


JWH we have a quite unexpected situation here. There is a 3000-acre defunct mine in our area that is a state park now, and it is our own desert playground all us semi-locals bomb around in. Look up St. Joe State Park! It's cool. Here's some footage of me unknowingly learning a slightly expensive lesson about silting VW top ends to death. The dust is super fine and ultra abrasive. Worse than poofy silt, it's ultra-fine super hard silica/rock mine tailings from somewhat recent mining activity. Blows STRAIGHT through an oiled K&N filter with Outerwears, your only hope is a well-oiled UNI wrap if you don't have cannister filter setup(s).

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Rod we gotta get down there. I'll get the guy with the buggy in the video to go too.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 1:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

OTC Filters (formerly R2C filters) work well and are cleanable.
Yes the best are the Donaldson style are the best so far as the incoming spins dropping most of the dirt out before it can get to filter.
The Donaldson ones I use, actually have two separate paper elements inside each housing.
I use one for each IDF type carburetor.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 4:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

My buddy has been driving this baja for 40+ years in Moab. He uses two bus air filters.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 5:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

more than one way to skin a cat Idea
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2025 6:15 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

.

Wow! I missed a lot here over the course of yesterday.

BFB wrote:
Of course the pict is choking it, those things would choke a lawn mower engine. Heh heh JK, i just dont like those carbs, period. ANY other carb would wake that thing up from a pict.
Aside from that if it’s a stock 1600 it only has around 7.5:1 CR.
I think if your wanting something easy & mild then what your thinking wouldnt be a bad idea. Could also bump the compression while you’re there and maybe run some ratios to get a little more lift and duration.


Looking at the tiny bore of the H30/31, I was thinking the same, but I'm all for capturing some data to quantify it. I pulled the manifold last night, drilled and tapped it, and temporarily hooked up my largest vacuum gauge. I should get a chance to drive it and test this weekend.


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It reminds me of a certain celebrity Laughing

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BFB wrote:
just because you have a monkey butthole fetish and beastiality is illegal which forces your perverted actions behind closed doors, does not give you the right to lash out at us due to your sexual frustrations.

I think racecougar has a nice thread here that's had very little b.s. in it, so do you really want to start shit with dumbass comments like that and fuck his thread all up? you know damn well I'll burn a thread down if that's the path you want to take, but this one will be on your shoulders for starting shit


I ignored Sammysquanch and Pron awhile back, but with this response, I just had to go unblock the post to see what he said. Rolling Eyes

JWHracing wrote:
The single barrel carb and the Donaldson air filter is definitely restricting your potential.

A single Weber IDF 40 is the way to go. You can run an air box and still run your donaldson filter, but in your area, you aren't really in the dry dusty conditions that warrant that much filtration. You'd be better off with a large K&N filter and an outerwear or UNI foam wrap.


The HDMX is still a consideration here, especially if the vacuum test points to as much of a restriction as I expect it will. I'll test with and without the current air cleaner to see if there is any difference. You're right that most of the time, this thing will just see street miles, but as Jim pointed out above, I do take it to St. Joe from time to time, and that place requires all the filtration you can get. The Parker Pumper is a god send when ripping around down there. That's not to say I can't have two different air cleaner arrangements.

BFB wrote:
But if it were me , id just start collecting parts and go ahead and build a new engine over the winter. You’ll end up doing that at some point anyhow so itd be better to just skip the ‘no split case ‘ step and build something you think you’ll actually be happy with and then you dont end up with the slip ins and such that you wont use on the engine you end up building.


ORANGECRUSHer wrote:

I think a good course to take for most of us mere mortals is to just run what you got as long as you can but in the meantime start purchasing all the parts for another engine to build in the future. Then when you build it you have a backup engine. Very Happy


So the main reason I've held off on considering the full build path is that the goal all along was to not end up underwater on this car. Most of the other cars have enough sentimentality that they're going to stick with me til I'm gone; this one will eventually get sold. I only have so much space, and I still have a lot of cars I want to build (I'd really like to do something from the '30's next).

That said, you only live once, and we all spend money on things with no return except FUN, so I am leaning more and more toward building an engine for this car. If I weren't fully in the middle of a build with another one right in line behind it, I'd probably go ahead and start gathering parts right now.

Without thinking too many steps ahead, and with the right to change my mind at any point in time Laughing , this is where my head is at right now: test the restriction of the current carb and air cleaner. Depending on the results, consider swapping to a better form of induction. Decide on next steps after experiencing that (hopeful) improvement in power.


Sincerest thanks for all of the interest and posts here over the last day or so! I'll post up results as soon as I get to test. Any guesses as to how much vacuum I'll see on the gauge at WOT? I'm going to set the over/under at 4 inHg.

I did this test once on the blown Cougar above to determine if the twin 57mm throttle body was holding me back. IIRC, it was showing 1.4 inHG at WOT (used a transducer on the dyno to measure). Switching to a huge oval throttle body dropped that to 0.1 inHG and picked up 24 rwhp.


jimmyhoffa wrote:

Rod we gotta get down there. I'll get the guy with the buggy in the video to go too.


Text/message me some dates, and we'll make it happen. Thumbs Up Currently planning on taking the kid and our ATV's back down there on July 20th. August weekends are pretty open on my calendar at the moment.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2025 7:29 am    Post subject: Re: Rod's Chenowth 4LWD Build Reply with quote

Quote:
So the main reason I've held off on considering the full build path is that the goal all along was to not end up underwater on this car. Most of the other cars have enough sentimentality that they're going to stick with me til I'm gone; this one will eventually get sold...


Just let me know when that time comes, I'd buy this from you any day!

-Joe
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