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Karl
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
You don't get it. By "new" cap it wasn't meant to be a later model cap. By using the example of the cannister, it was meant to show that, at VW, they developed a better system for their later model cars, because they had to to meet new VOC standards. I thought that I explained it pretty clearly.
The "original" caps don't vent the fumes directlly to the atmosphere like you would have if you drilled a hole directly through it.
Try storing one of those five gallon gasoline containers without the tiny lid for the spout on it, full of gasoline, in your garage. My father did it, once, on a warm day and, luckily, there was no water heater in the garage and I didn't start my bus until the garage was aired out.
Opening up a fuel tank directly to the atmosphere is not a good thing to do; telling people to do it is completely irresponsible.
Thanks for letting people know that the later model gas caps won't work, anyway.


I am done arguing.

Take a look at the original caps. I even posted pics of one. YES, they most certainly do VENT directly to the atmosphere. Around the inside edge are vent holes. If you buy a new cap that is advertised as fitting a 67 and older bus, it is a sealed cap. You WILL collapse your gas tank using it. I know, I HAVE a collapsed tank I took out of my 66 using one that was billed as 'correct for 55-67 buses'. I sent that link too. Do you read anything or just think its all bullshit?? Pre-evaporative emission vehicles DID vent the gas tank directly to the atmosphere.
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Campy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karl, so you think that it is safe to have one larger hole through the center of the gas cap? There was a reason that the engineers at VW didn't design gas caps that had one hole straight through the middle and a reason that they got rid of them. I suppose that you store your filled up gas can in your garage with the small lid off, too?
Do you know any engineers who recommend having one larger hole directly, I repeat, directly, through a gas cap, so the gas fumes could possibly reach an ignition source??
Do you know how to read? I stated in my previous thread that I didn't mean by "new" cap an unvented cap. We all know that the mail order companies are selling unvented gas caps, so you don't need to keep repeating it.
Drill a hole straight through your gas cap. I just hope that you don't have a pilot light in your garage.
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Wolffeather
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There was a thread about the tank leaking around the filler neck and what to do, a few months back. There was some really good points of views on what to do too. I would repair it when ever possible-keep the OG parts as long as you can. I remember ssomeone saying; fill it up with water (safety reasons) and then just braise it and repaint over the repair. I think you'll get a better repair and know what you have. I have broke them there quite a few times and had great results repairing them. Now I always hold the pump nossle, so the weight of it is hot pressing down on that LONG-NECK and I never let anyone else pump my gas. Even here in Oregon where there's NO SELF-SERVE. I always fill-up at the same station and they are to busy checking my bus out to want to pump it anyway
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tanks are cheap enough and available to be dicking with an old and cracked one. If you suffer from "stockitis og" syndrome, buy a new stock one. If not then upgrade to a fatchick one and be done with it! Confused
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Friedpotatoes
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
Karl, so you think that it is safe to have one larger hole through the center of the gas cap? There was a reason that the engineers at VW didn't design gas caps that had one hole straight through the middle and a reason that they got rid of them. I suppose that you store your filled up gas can in your garage with the small lid off, too?
Do you know any engineers who recommend having one larger hole directly, I repeat, directly, through a gas cap, so the gas fumes could possibly reach an ignition source??
Do you know how to read? I stated in my previous thread that I didn't mean by "new" cap an unvented cap. We all know that the mail order companies are selling unvented gas caps, so you don't need to keep repeating it.
Drill a hole straight through your gas cap. I just hope that you don't have a pilot light in your garage.


To clarify I didn't drill a hole straight through the cap. The cap does fit nice . The only part i punctured was the the dome part. so it wasn't a straight through hole. it didnt quite vent on the sides. but it did vent. the most I could thread into the hole was door panel screw.
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Campy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We miscommunicated. It was good that you clariffied it in case someone thought of drilling clear through the cap, which would not be good.
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mpribanic
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What if you had a leaking, earlier non fuel sending unit tank? My '58 does not have a fuel sending unit. The tank has a hairline fracture in the bottom bend of the neck. I think I'll repair, not replace.
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Help Help
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy thread resurrections batman!!! I'm sure this thread had great information 7 years ago but a few things may have changed....

I've got a leak that I think is coming from around where the neck connects to the tank. It's on a 67 and the entire filler neck is attached.

How good are the repops available today?

Go the POR route?

Have a local shop weld it up?

Thanks in adavnce.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

People will still tell you to repair yours. I don't believe in messing around with questionable tanks so I bought a Wolfsburg West one. They now have a quality one available. Th '67 "hump" tank is not being reproduced so you'll have to have the flat one if you go new. I did have to clean some paint flakes off my new tanks filter sock after 6 months (I had it out anyway and looked, it wasn't clogged I just noticed some).

I would not use POR liner or anything like it. I've used it on motorcycles and I don't trust it not to flake. If the tanks not too rusty inside, you can CLR and shake bbs or a chain in a rusty tank to clean it. Then rinse and you're better off than coating. If it's not rusty inside don't do anything to the inside.

Opinions will vary on this stuff.
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g3bill
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were me I'd figure where its leaking from first before asking. Is the tank rusting through, is there a pin hole from a factory weld, crack from stress? If it quite small you might just braze it it a small area after venting the tank for a good amount of time. I see no reason to use the POR sealer if theres not much more than a trace of rust. just what I might do?
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Das67bus
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
It's still dumb to drill a hole in a gas cap where the vapor goes directly out. If enough gasoline vapor accumalates out of the fuel tank and reaches a source of ignition such as a pilot light, so long. It is the gasoline vapor that is dangerous. That is why they developed cannisters in a sealed system where the vapor condenses back to gasoline. Spend a few bucks and buy a good cap.

That's fine. WHERE do you buy a good cap? I've had the problem of the tank pressuring up, leaking, and have tried several caps. I give!!!
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Help Help
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, I know exactly where it's leaking from, the joint to the filler neck. That's what leads me to a new tank, POR or a Pro to weld/braze it. Given where the crack is, I'm already leaning to the new tank. Better safe than sorry? (As long as the new tanks are not uber chitty?!?) Anyone vouch for the WW tanks?

On a related note, my 18 month old VDO fuel sending unit decided it wanted to die too. That is the gauge went to E and stayed there. So I took it out and expected to find a float filled with gas but it's solid. I've taken it apart and everything is OK, the resistance fluctuates just as it should. However I don't trust it and will likely replace it just so I don't have to drop the engine yet again.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I said above the new tanks (if you get it from Wolfsburg west only) are nice. Do not buy from another vendor or you will not get the new and improved tank unless you confirm they are carrying the WW tank.
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Das67bus
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuco wrote:
Like I said above the new tanks (if you get it from Wolfsburg west only) are nice. Do not buy from another vendor or you will not get the new and improved tank unless you confirm they are carrying the WW tank.

What are you using for a cap?
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original cap that came on the bus. I haven't had any issues with it.
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Das67bus
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuco wrote:
The original cap that came on the bus. I haven't had any issues with it.

OK, thanks. I guess I'll have to find one. I have a Wolfsburg tank like you.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the problem you are having with the cap? Maybe I just haven't noticed anything.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikerbus wrote:
Campy wrote:
It's still dumb to drill a hole in a gas cap where the vapor goes directly out. If enough gasoline vapor accumalates out of the fuel tank and reaches a source of ignition such as a pilot light, so long. It is the gasoline vapor that is dangerous. That is why they developed cannisters in a sealed system where the vapor condenses back to gasoline. Spend a few bucks and buy a good cap.

That's fine. WHERE do you buy a good cap? I've had the problem of the tank pressuring up, leaking, and have tried several caps. I give!!!


Have you seen this thread? Have you put on a good fitting, vented cap? Apparently some of the reproduction caps aren't vented which is a problem.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1...p;start=40

Some folks recommended the Stant 10623:

http://www.amazon.com/Stant-10623-Fuel-Cap/dp/B000...ords=10623
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Das67bus
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuco wrote:
bikerbus wrote:
Campy wrote:
It's still dumb to drill a hole in a gas cap where the vapor goes directly out. If enough gasoline vapor accumalates out of the fuel tank and reaches a source of ignition such as a pilot light, so long. It is the gasoline vapor that is dangerous. That is why they developed cannisters in a sealed system where the vapor condenses back to gasoline. Spend a few bucks and buy a good cap.

That's fine. WHERE do you buy a good cap? I've had the problem of the tank pressuring up, leaking, and have tried several caps. I give!!!


Have you seen this thread? Have you put on a good fitting, vented cap? Apparently some of the reproduction caps aren't vented which is a problem.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1...p;start=40

Some folks recommended the Stant 10623:

http://www.amazon.com/Stant-10623-Fuel-Cap/dp/B000...ords=10623


I thought I had a vented cap, but I don't think I did. I am looking for a vented cap.
I have a new WW tank for my '67 bus and the Stant 10623 does not fit well.....way too tight to get on and I'm not sure it's going all the way on.
I am trying to find an original, vented cap like Karl mentions above.
Thanks!
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kbman
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Over the years I've brazed three tanks. Two type ones and one type two and if needed I will do it again. I just saw a repair that made over 25 years ago while replacing tie rod ends a few months back. Still holding knock on wood. A hundred and eighty dollars for a new tank certainly is affordable but is it crap like a lot of after market products. Just because wolfsburg west sells it doesn't always mean its quality.
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