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Fiberglass body parts
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broncbob
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Joined: November 13, 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Salt Lake City/ World Wide
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This a drag only car right???

Cut the bracing out of the trunk and deck lid. You may have to go to hood pins or the likes to attach them.

I trust this thing is caged?? Remove as much body bracing as you dare. You can all ways add a aluminum rod or strap to help retain a shape if you have to. Go old school, drill holes in any thing and every thing!!!!

Get a friend that works at Boeing......They have bolts that will blow your mind as far as weight and strength!
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Ellis' Bug
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Joined: November 15, 2006
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Location: Phoenix
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one of those four point roll bars but it must be for a regular beetle, not a Super because the back of my helmet hits it. I need to get a real cage. My fastest time so far is 12.44 @ 105 mph. I'm really wanting to get into the 11s. I guess you never can go fast enough.

I've got a buddy that's going to help with the cage but right now I don't even have the four point installed. So on one hand I'm trying to lighten the car and on the other hand I need to install a cage which will add weight. Gotta stay safe though.
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freednighthawk
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Joined: October 22, 2008
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Location: Pensacola Florida
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont forget lightweight racing seats. Not only do they reduce weight, but if you pick up good, real racing seats, they can help protect you in the event of a crash.

OHh, I know! Pull the pans!... Wait, nvm...
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not to say you haven't done so allready, but have you done anything like dyno tunning to make sure you're getting everything out of your engine? I know of at least two people that drastically stepped up their fuel system delivery, and gained roughly a half a second in the 1/4.
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Ellis' Bug
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point, I need to find a dyno somewhere locally. I guess I was thinking that 12.44 in a heavy Super with a NA 2276 was an indication the state of tune was pretty close....... but I'd like to know for sure and a dyno could tell me that.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's kind of what my buddies were thinking. One went from a 1/4 inch dead end fuel line to a 1/2 inch dead end, and went from 12.70 to 12.20. The other went from a 3/8 dead end to a bypass system with a dash 10 (5/8 inch) feed, and a dash 8 (1/2 inch) return, and went from 12.05 to 11.65. These were the only changes in each car. See if you can find a chassis dyno shop that has a way to monitor A/F ratios, and weld an O2 bung into your header to measure the A/F on your engine. The other guys thought there cars were running quite well, but were leaning out on the top end.
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Ellis' Bug
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I already have a bung in my header. I also have 3/8 fuel line from front to back...... never considered it might be too small. Something to think about though.
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veedubcrazy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking to save some weight? Try using shorter than stock length fender bolts and smaller washers. They are cheap and easy to put in. You can also use the same method replacing the pan bolts but still retain the channel washers.
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MikeBock
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try cutting out the "carbs" during the day and increase the fruits and vegetables and don't eat at all after 6pm......this is a sure way to shave the lb's Wink
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