Can an old rear wiper motor be rebuilt?

[Tom Powell]

[syncrodoka]

As already stated busboys is no longer.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8282234

[Tom Powell]

[syncrodoka]

Look for online ETKA programs, I have seen several people link to sites in the past. That is the program that the dealer used for line drawings and part numbers.
The busboys site doesn't compare and will likely vaporize in the near future.

[Terry Kay]

I called a couple of my best suppliers, including VW warehouse.

Your seeking the temple of doom without Laura Croft.

Used, no problem, new, rebuilt, you're on your own.
_________________
T.K.

[Tom Powell]

[Terry Kay]

Located all kinds of take out motors.
There is nothing new here.
Perhaps in Deutschland.
Should be motor places in your neck of the woods to get them rebuilt, rewound.
_________________
T.K.

[Wasted youth]

Update - Dec. 08

I finally located a shop that would at least take a look at my problem:

http://eurtonelectric.com/

I called more than a dozen places; most were referred by other shops. Most said they don't work on motors that small or that I would be better off buying a new unit; which for us seems a bit of a challenge. John at Eurton is willing to try.

I will be sending one of the units to Eurton, but I was able to clean, lube and reassemble one of them out of the best parts and it functions fine. I made a number of photos along the way and share the job here.

One of the biggest problems is the bakelite plate that the brush housing is married to was severely damaged by heat/fire. I have doubts it will be salvageable, but I will send it out anyway.

First, a basic idea of a motor from the internet:

Then, my damaged motors. In this view, the motor has suffered severe heat damage. The other motor faired far better and I chose it over this one in my salvage/repair attempt.

Here is what is left of one of the motor brushes. Note how the Bakelite platform fro the brush housing has melted away:

Here you can see heat damage to the commutator:

I cleaned it up using 1500 grit sandpaper and kept it flushed with Electical Parts Cleaner. I also carefully knifed out the slots between each pole to remove any carbon and copper powder build-up:

I tested the winding for an open circuit, and really high impedance. This was the reading I got on BOTH of the windings. My other shop mentioned problems with one of them, but both of these measured uniformly. My fingers were crossed, because I had no technical reference to know what the reading is supposed to be. I totally forgot to read the field windings! The little pivot lug piece seems to be made out of graphite or something like that. Be careful not to let this escape onto the shop floor. It is critical in keeping one end of the armature centered in the body of the stator. You can't allow the field windings to rub on the armature body.

This is the motor stator I chose to use:

It was easy enough to pull the armature out of the motor, but it is a little tricky getting it reinstalled. That came later. When I got to that point, I removed the brushes. The small brass tabs that keep the brush springs in place are not meant to be bent back and forth a bunch of times and care should be used to avoid doing this job repeatedly or they will likely break off. I bent out the tabs enough to let the springs escape into the safety of my palm, and allowed the brushes to recede into the holder so it will let the armature pass through and seat at the end of the stator.

I fought some magnetic energy trying to align the armature back into its seat without disturbing the little coned graphite bearing. I put a very slight dab of dielectric grease on it so it would stick to the armature.

Once I had the armature safely nested, I looked through the slots in the stator housing (motor body) to see that it was all the way seated. Then I reinserted the brush springs, and pressed them down in there with the dummy end of an artists paint brush, because you need to get them down in there far enough to close the tabs. My thumbs and fingers are too big for that. Once I got them down, I dropped the paint brush and used the flat edge of the Exacto knife to keep the spring from getting caught up in the tab. I closed the tab with thumb pressure.

You will need to clean all the old grease off of the worm drive.

Now I fitted the motor back to the wiper mechanism. The two tabs anchoring the body to the mechanism are best held in place with a small vest pocket magnet:

CAUTION: When you re-assemble the motor to the wiper assembly, TAKE CARE not to allow the action of the wiper assembly to pull out the armature from the stator! The normal movement of trying to re-engage the armature worm drive to the wiper assembly gear will encourage the armature to be pulled free from the stator! If this happens, you will need to remove the brushes again and re-seat the armature.

The single black wire from the motor will need to be re-soldered to the green wire with black tracer. Stop talkin' about that bad solder joint! I re-did it!

I partially reinstalled the completed assembly for testing:

Yay! It worked!

So this is how it is when you have it all done. I remembered to clean and re-lube the plug connector with dielectric grease and zip tie the wire to the motor body, and also re-taped the end of the motor where the yellow tape was that Bosch put on.

It functions beautifully. Next: trying to readjust the rear spray nozzle, as it shoots straight up into the sky, even though it looks correctly seated.

I will follow up with what the verdict is from the electrical shop when I can.

[ALIKA T3]

So, Wasted Youth, what's the verdict??

I'm trying to see if another car would share the same motor, new....
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[dirty-pierrot]

I have also a burnt rear wiper motor,the brush housing melt. Exactly like the picture above.
If someone know any supplier for a new one it would be helpfull.
Thanks

[shadetreemech]

[16CVs]

I've rebuilt about about 10 of them. Sometimes they are just too cooked to fix. They are just like rebuilding a window motor.
Send it to me of I can't fix it I won't charge you.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[dirty-pierrot]

Thanks all for the links and offer.
I'm trying to find something locally (France) If not I'll get back to you.

[Syncro Garry]

I have a burned out rear wiper motor + worm gear & am looking for a replacement.
Whilst looking for one I came across images of a T4 motor 701 955 713A which appears to be a mirror image of the T25 rear wiper motor / gears & is readily available.
Has anyone tried to use a T4 rear motor in a T25 or stripped one to use the motor / worm gear innards?

[ALIKA T3]

[walkingupstream]

Looking at the $155 replacements, I wonder if there isn't just some simple non-vw replacement that will be cheap and do the job.

I mean, it's a wiper motor. hidden behind steel. that turns an arm through a hole. on a (12v?/?A) circuit.

Couldn't there be something available to work?

[dubbified]

[dubbified]

Dinnertime.

I took the guidance provided here, which is great and broke into the gear housing!

It seems to separate the gear cover, you have to drill out the rivets, I busted... almost allll my smaller bits. holy cow.

To anyone seeking to take this on, rebuilding the motor is one thing, but the crankcase is also serviceable. Use good synth lube, as there is a electrical connector inside the casing.

My bike drive motor axle cracked.. so I cracked the case on my BBSHD BAFANG 1hp crank drive bike motor and replaced the broken drive/rotor with a new replacement upgraded axle.. whether doing that.. or this.. it really is the same thing, few differences. Considering when I used redline synth CV2 on it, it got very quiet, the tires are louder and a joy to ride.

Getting this back in action is my concern.

all parts on the counter, cleaned up,

lubed and prepped,

to insert the core of the motor into the housing I used clear tape back on itself and made a sleeve out of clear tape, so as to isolate the magnet and slide the core into the housing easier. then I pulled the sleeve, worked as expected, real slick.

After this, I used self tapping metal screws.

I am, curious as to the best way to test this before putting back in?

Hooking it up to 5 amp fuse/power does not seem to do anything.