DC to DC charger install - does this work?

[kourt]

Yes, that's it.

Kourt

[mikemtnbike]

Another difference between early and late vans is that there is no stud on the earlier vans- it's just a splice-type junction. Look for this on the purple wires behind the mangatek.

The stud is a definite improvement and what I changed my van to.

Just putting this here for anybody who looks at this helpful thread in the future, but has an early model van.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[wavefarer]

I'm heading back out the van to put the VOM to that stud and determine which wire is from battery/alternator. Has anybody tried removing the furnace without taking off the back panel with fuses and water sprayer? It looks like it might barely slip out and would save time as removing and reinstalling that back panel was a pain.

THank you to all again.
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1999 VW Winnebago Campervan

[kourt]

Yes, on my 2001 EVC, the furnace will slip out of the steel box housing, as long as you have properly removed the propane line and wiring harness. It's not as hard as it sounds, but you need to properly test the propane line once you reconnect it.

Once you get the furnace out, you can remove the box as well. It's a lot of work, either way.

kourt

[wavefarer]

Thanks kourt. I am on it!

You mention properly test the propane. I have used soapy water solution on fitting to check for leaks. Is there a better method?
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1999 VW Winnebago Campervan

[kourt]

Soapy water is fine for you, me, and thousands of plumbers.

Kourt

[dsh1705]

[dsh1705]

[wavefarer]

dsh1705 Very clever upgrade for quickly getting to that area.

With everyone's help and encouragement, I was easily able to get the furnace out without removing the back. It went very smoothly.

I removed all the wires from the isolation post and moved all but the wire from alternator to the new bus bar. I then mounted the Victron DC Charger to the floor on driver side rear under where the isolator post was and commented the wire from alternator to DC charger input (+) and ran DC charger Output (+) to the bus bar that included the wire to a 40 Amp breaker and house battery.

Where I had planned to mount the DC charger in the passenger side battery compartment I left blank for next years project of Victron solar.

It all works as it should. I really appreciate this thread and others like it for helping me choose gear and think through the issues to complete this project.

Now to put the back seat back in and get her loaded up for a California beach vacation.

Here are a few pictures of my upgrade.

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1999 VW Winnebago Campervan

[krusovice]

Looks really nice. I'm going to have to really clean mine up.
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1984 Vanagon 1.9/4 speed
2001 Eurovan Camper

[OB Bus]

I am fascinated to read all of this discussion. When its comes to electricity my skills & knowledge are really limited.
I am tired of replacing Group 31 Deep Cycle batteries every 18-24 months. A lithium battery is on the horizon.
In another post on this topic (either here on on FB) another person put the Victron DC-DC charger in the engine compartment next to the starting battery.
He left the 3-way Ford relay where it was.
He used the existing wire from the relay to the DC-DC and then to the rear.
He did not replace the Magnatek, at least yet.
No new shunts.
No new wires from front to back.
No bus bars.
No new fuses.
He kept it really simple.
Any reason that would not work? I understand its might not be "as good", but would it be "good enough".
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Larry in OB
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
69 Westfalia and 2002 Eurovan Camper.
People deserve the Government they voted for.

[krusovice]

I thought about that but didn't want to put the DC/DC charger under the hood.

Also, the Magnatec won't charge a lithium battery. If you leave it there you can't plug it in. (Well, I guess they kind of charge lithium, but not correctly or completely and why spend the money on a nice battery if you can't charge it completely.)
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1984 Vanagon 1.9/4 speed
2001 Eurovan Camper

[wavefarer]

I suppose you could put the DC/DC charger in the engine compartment and avoid some of the extra bits. If you are going to go LiFePo4 battery then you will need a battery state of charge monitor or you will not know how much juice you have left. Also, if you want to charge from your home then a LiFePo4 compatible AC/DC charge will be required to properly charge. I charged the lifepo4 battery with the magnatek for awhile but it never got fully charged and who knows if I messed up the battery. The bus bars and fuses just make things tidier and easier to follow, the battery switch is just for convenience and safety, and the shunt is part of battery monitor.

I will see how it all works this summer and after that I will make any adjustments and maybe upgrade to solar and a 200 Ah battery. I believe I should get at least 40 hours with Dometic fridge and lights running on 100 Ah battery - we'll see. That should be fine as with a 10 year old we usually don't camp in one place for more than 2 days. Hopefully, the driving from campsite to campsite with the DC/DC charger will keep our drinks cold.
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1999 VW Winnebago Campervan

[mikemtnbike]

[xEVC]

[kourt]

Just to add on to the amperage discussion: I configure my Victron DCDC chargers to never exceed 15amps in/out. Maybe not necessary in the plausible scenario that xEVC lists, but at least I have a gatekeeper that I know will limit amperage. I like that kind of control.

I second the removal of any MagneTek appliances.

kourt

[OB Bus]

[mikemtnbike]

[OB Bus]

[dsh1705]

You can remove it, or safely cap it off for future use.
_________________
David
1705.net
95 EVC

Former owner of:
66 Sundial Camper
60 Single Cab